UKC

My partner and I are heading to Val Di Mello in September for a couple of weeks.  We've done some longer multipitches before, myself in Yosemite, and both of us in Squamish.

I'm a bit concerned that the majority of the good stuff is about 20 pitches, so looking to hear whether there is much around the 10-15 pitch length.  Should we be thinking of somewhere else like Orco?

Grade wise - happy moving at a decent speed at HVS/5.9.  E1 fine but the pace slows down a bit.  I'd be happy with the odd E2 pitch but not sure I'd want to go any harder than that on a big day out!

We are hoping for a similar experience to Squamish - some cragging days, some 5-8 pitch days and some longer days.  Does Val Di Mello fit the bill?  Is Orco any better?

I'm not sure you need to worry about stuff that long. Apart from monte qualido, I can't think what would be 20 pitches. Even stuff on qualido isn't that long I don't think?

I'd say you'll have plenty to go at. I seem to remember a lot of good stuff being between 5 and 10 pitches 

There is plenty at those grades, and lots of stuff higher up too out of the Gianetti and Allievi rifugios 

Thanks for the replies!

Hard to find a decent guidebook but sounds like one can be sourced locally once in the area.

If you have any route recommendations I would love to hear them!

The only major venue i have been to and not been able to lead a pitch. Blank slabs sod all kit. 

Can't speak for Orco, but Mello has a bit of everything, although the minimal bolts policy in the valley means be prepared for some big runouts. On my visit we did some sport down in the lower valleys and on the giant boulder, some bouldering and some cragging in Mello itself. Some locals handed us some wine when we were lost looking for the line of a route given a sport grade. Pointing up to a first bolt at around 10m they said the local ethic was wine instead of bolts for courage.

Luna Nascente is a must do at the grade, we also went up high and bivvied to try some of the alpine rock routes although only managed one as we got rained off. Better protected than in the valley, make of that what you will!

I've not been to Mello yet but Orco has loads of good moderate routes which are mostly cracks so well protected. I loved it there. 

I went last year for two weeks and climbing around the same grade. Did not have a shortage of routes to do, we also found lots of sport climbing and bouldering, and there are some enjoyable longer easier routes.

There tends to be a lot of run out slabs when you least expect it, which aren't that bad when you get used to the style. Me and my mate got a lot of benefit of spending some time at "Mosquito Coast" where there are relatively well bolted single pitch sport slab climbs that are good for practicing the slab climbing style, before you jump into the more serious longer routes. 

Don't recall any 20 pitch routes unless you are thinking of doing Linkups of different sectors, which is entirely possible to do if you want. 

100% yes. One of my best ever overseas trip was to  Mello in 1992.There was plenty to do at that grade back then, probably even more so now. It s a brilliant place as long as the weather is great.