UKC

I am taking a trip to the alps from the 12th to the 25th this month and was wondering what the normal conditions for Piz Badile are around this time of year. Was probably thinking of ascending the Cassin route on 19th/20th/21st. 

I don't mind a bit of snow or ice but would rather it wasn't. How quick is the route to dry and are June ascents typical? Any help is appreciated.

Sam

dunno, but if you are descending down the south face and round i would expect snow on your way back to the car at that time of year. you should be able to find out conditions by phoning the guardians in both huts.

Talking to the warden is the way to go. The Sasc Fura hut is only partially wardened in June, so you´ll maybe have to persevere with trying to get through. The main hut doesn´t open fully until July, but there´s a winter room available which takes 4 people.

https://www.sascfura.ch/en/huette.html

PS: even if the warden says it´ll be ok, be wary and prepared to retreat if necessary. We found the chimney pitches high on the Cassin route to be the hardest, and that´s obviously where any ice is going to linger longest. We were once told by the Civetta hut warden at the start of the season that our planned route should be fine (we were the first that year); it wasn´t, and we had to bale out halfway up.

Thanks for the advice, phoning the warden does seem like a good bet. Yea that’s what I was slightly wary about, what is it like to bail from? I’ve heard it’s not pleasant but I’ve also seen that there are a huge amount of fixed pitons and bolted belays.

I think I’m going to try and judge it closer to the time. There may not even be a weather window while I’m there so I’ll have to see.

I heard that every stance now has bolts, maybe somebody who´s done it more recently (we were there in the 90s) could confirm this?

Even if not, retreat shouldn´t be a problem, nothing to worry about.

Edit: Twin or double ropes would  be good to have to speed things up. We had 50m twins and were mightily glad of them when we had to ab down the N ridge in a thunderstorm after the ascent.

I was planning to take two 60s up so it seems like it would be retreat-able, even if it was unpleasant.

The topo I am using shows all the bolted anchors and it seems to be pretty much all of them.

I am planning to keep a good eye on the weather and if a couple days of sun and warmer temperatures appear I’ll give it a go (if the warden thinks it’s good also)