UKC

Comfier shoe that is same fit & as versatile as Scarpa Instinct VS?

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Steve_90 20 Aug 2023

Looking for a shoe that can match up to the Scarpa Instinct VS in terms of how well it performs and fits for grit and limestone trad. Such a versatile shoe but even getting it in a bigger size, found it uncomfortable for all day cragging (understand this isn't its purpose). Climb anything from diff to E4. Cheers.

 druss 20 Aug 2023
In reply to Steve_90:

> Looking for a shoe that can match up to the Scarpa Instinct VS in terms of how well it performs and fits for grit and limestone trad. Such a versatile shoe but even getting it in a bigger size, found it uncomfortable for all day cragging (understand this isn't its purpose). Climb anything from diff to E4. Cheers.

That would be the Scarpa Instinct Lace 0.5 down from your street shoe.

1
 bpmclimb 20 Aug 2023
In reply to Steve_90:

> Looking for a shoe that can match up to the Scarpa Instinct VS in terms of how well it performs and fits for grit and limestone trad.

It may not seem the same sort of shoe at all, but I was forced into buying a new pair of shoes in Spain recently, after losing mine, and went for Tenaya Masai on the recommendation of the guy in the climbing shop in Leon. For what it's worth, I've been very impressed with them: they're sensitive and techy enough for the stuff you mention, but much comfier than any of the Instinct models. This year I've worn almost nothing else, and the Instinct VS (and the Instincts and the Instinct S) are gathering dust in the garage.

1
 DaveHK 20 Aug 2023
In reply to Steve_90:

Don't buy Masais, buy your size. 😀

 SteveJC94 20 Aug 2023
In reply to Steve_90:

Your best bet is to pop down to your local shop and try a load of models on as shoes are so fit dependent. I've got a high volume foot with a wide forefoot and narrow heel. La Sportiva Otaki's are pretty much perfect for me and are a brilliant all-rounder but if you've got a narrow, low volume foot, you'll need something completely different.

There really is no substitute for trying shoes on in a shop. 

 laughitup 21 Aug 2023
In reply to Steve_90:

I really struggled with the VS but got on so much better with the VSR. Think the softer rubber means they don't contort your toes in the same manner. Also maybe worth trying the generator as I found them to be super comfy and have an wide 'instinct' foot.

OP Steve_90 21 Aug 2023
In reply to Steve_90:

Hey, thanks for everyone's reply, appreciate it

I have wide forefoot, narrow heel and slight Morton's toes. Will try shoes suggested in a shop.

I do normally only size down by 0.5 for trad so may try my street shoe size but when have done this in past, shoes have felt too baggy after a while. 

Post edited at 12:38

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...