UKC

Hello all,

Not entirely sure what I’m looking for in posting this! Maybe some empathy, ideas for routes or perhaps there is some way I can incorporate climbing differently to feel inspired again.
 

I recently took a long career break and focused so heavily on improving my outdoor sport climbing grade that eventually I lost enthusiasm for trying hard. I did lots of long easy sport multi pitches with exciting approaches/descents and started to really enjoy trad climbing again, especially (very easy) multis.
 

I’m now back in the UK and really struggling with my enthusiasm. The gym feels quite small and uninspiring and I have a perplexing sorrow that ‘my’ sport isn’t thrilling me any more. It all feels a bit pointless, pulling on plastic, hearing everyone talk grades and plan their annual trip to Kalymnos. I realise I might sound condescending, but I’m genuinely feeling flat and envious of their excitement.

Climbing is how I’ve kept fit and happy and it’s how I’ve spent a lot of my leisure time, I’m quite upset to acknowledge these feelings. Does anyone have any advice to regain some psych?! I live in the midlands and have to stay here for at least a year due to work/house.

Any recommendations for multi pitch holiday destinations in Europe? Ideally long routes up to 6b. Also for well protected trad multis in the UK, probably only up to HS, I’ve done a few around Snowdonia before. 

Thanks 🙏 (edited for spelling errors!)
 

In reply to WanderingGinger:

I could be speaking entirely from my own standpoint but what appeals to me about climbing is adventure and there isn't that much in a lot of sport climbing. It also strips out a lot of the skill requirement (route-finding, gear placement, commitment, boldness, etc.), which is one of the best bits about climbing - being self-sufficient and using those skills to get to the top. 

It sounds like you might enjoy that too, if you're looking for longer multi-pitch routes and trad climbs. Adventure is not knowing the outcome and there isn't a whole lot of that with sport; you generally either do the climb or you don't. 

What qualifies as an adventure is entirely subjective mind, but I'd be looking at long and isolated routes with a big walk-in and logistical considerations such as biviing/camping. 

Getting the ferry to Arran, walking into Glen Rosa and camping and climbing (South Ridge Direct, Labyrinth, Sou'wester Slabs, Caliban's Creep, etc.) could be good. The outcome could also be a severe midging and retreat. 

In reply to WanderingGinger:

If you want to do something exciting without having to travel to the other side, how about a staycation? You could go and do the routes in Twll Mawr - Long in the twll for example is 180m long 6c+ (6b+ if you pull on the crucial bolt) and it's an adventure getting in there in the first place? There are others there too and the general atmosphere is about as unKaly as you possibly can...

In reply to WanderingGinger:

Not quite what you were asking for, but have you thought of adding sea-cliff climbing into the mix?  🌊

Regardless of grade, I find that being down among the waves, tidal pools and marine wild-life adds an exhilerating dimension to a day's climbing.

A few places off the top of my head which can be reached by scrambling or by a fairly straightfoward abseil and have routes below VS...

- Sennen

- Saddle Head

- Porthclais Red Wall

- South Buttress St Davids Head

- Penally area (e.g. Giltar)

- Range West Mount Sion area has lots of routes at your grade but you would need to attend a briefing.

- Latheronwheel

- Sarclet (Tilted Ledge has the easiest access)

Also, Lighthouse Arete at South Stack gets VS for its situation but is not too challenging technically if you are confident with abseiling in and multipitch climbing (one well-protected 4b move).

If you want multipitch sport adventures I'd argue it does exist, but in Canada. 

Then again when I've gone through this I've had to not force it, just step back from climbing for a while, and enjoy other things. It always comes back eventually.

In reply to WanderingGinger:

I emphasise - its stressful when you're relationship to something you love changes, or is having a bad patch. 

How long have you been back from your sabbatical? I've had a couple of long breaks from work to go climbing, and upon returning from both its taken me three or four months to feel the love for my local climbing again. 

Separately, as I read it I think you alluded to raising your grade. For me there's a very tricky balance between ambition and enjoying the other bits (like camaraderie, enjoying nature, adventure, etc). Too much focus on one means I fail to appreciate the other bits. To make matters worse, framing the 'ambition' side of things in terms of grades means I can lose sight of progression in other ways that aren't captured by a single metric of the grade. For example, improving my headgame, doing the same grade but in styles I struggle with, improving crack climbing skills or smearing or whatever other niche; all of which can be done without worrying about the number but can still satisfy the desire to develop your own skills. Could that be an alternative direction?

In reply to Queen of the Traverse:

And the alps. I've done plenty of "sport" routes in the Dolomites which are bolted but which are definitely not a given. Getting on a 250-300m bolted alpine rock route at the edge of your ability is always going to be more memorable than a single pitch gridbolted piece of dullness. Onsight, floor far away, weather to contend with, needing a partner as strong as you are, route finding when the bolts/pegs/.threads are spaced out - it's all a much bigger ask...

In reply to WanderingGinger:

Do these have to be sport climbs? Because if not how about the generally well protected and easy to protect dreamy granite of Arctic Norway? It's a magic place and I find it hard to believe that anyone who likes being outside wouldn't fall in love with the place. I can see from your profile you climb to 7a, so even though you mention here climbing HS on trad, I'm sure you sort of know that on well protected routes where the gear is easy and obvious to place, you can climb harder than that! But even to HS, Lofoten and Narvik has completely amazing adventures. This will give you a taster https://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2013/09/rock-climbing-in-arctic-norw... or look up the sample chapter of the new Lofoten Rockfax.

 The Midlands is a big area, so this might not be helpful at all - but can you get out after work climbing in the summer rather than going to the climbing wall? I've been to the wall twice with my family in the last couple of months, but realised the last time I had climbed indoors was pre-Covid, probably a couple of years pre-Covid! Maybe breaking up that pattern would break the negative mental pattern? I was climbing last night at Bamford, quite local for me, but one of the crew I was out with had driven up from Burton on Trent which is a lot more effort than I need to make, but obviously worth it for Mick.

In reply to WanderingGinger:

It sounds like you may have "burned out" on climbing from focusing on it so much. I'm not so sure that changing route type or discipline will really bring back those feelings. It might.

But what about a (hopefully) short break from climbing? It might make you miss the excitement, the locations, the feelings of trying hard etc. Personally, I find that I really miss climbing after a break, and always throw myself back into it pretty hard afterwards.

In reply to WanderingGinger:

What about some outdoor bouldering or trad instead of the usual sport. Bouldering in a group or even solo is good fun. The Roaches isn't too far from the midlands. 

The wall can get a bit dull yeah and I couldn't motivate myself with just sport climbing goals to be honest.

In reply to WanderingGinger:

Just have some courage, follow your feelings and give it up for a while. Attend other areas of life and let climbing wither if it’s not for you right now. It’ll either come back or it won’t, either way that will be a genuine expression of who you are rather than anything forced.

In reply to beardy mike:

Yeah I almost mentioned that. Did my first easy route up the Jegihorn last summer, night before in the Weismiess hut, views of the Allalinhorn on the horizon, Saas Grund below, which absolutely hooked me. Bolted low grade adventures in the Rockies (there's a Gripped article on this) also entice me. Shame they're both pretty pricey! 

That said I think the OP just needs a rest really. The pressure on yourself from climbing is the worst curse for your enjoyment of it (or life). 

In reply to WanderingGinger:

I think I've had similar feelings after a long trip.Keeping motivation though goes hand in hand with goal setting without long term goals medium and short term ones might feel like a waste of time.Long term ones might not have to be exotic far away places specially if you are into trad climbing.The UK has a lot of the best and most unique traditional climbing in the world.The more you improve your sport climbing the better you'll  master the physical side of climbing which might lead you to your long term goals in trsd climbing.Bouldering imo is by far the best way. to practice/top up the 'try hard' mindset plus it's a great release from the pressure from achieving goals all the time  it allows you to play with what at first may seem impossible but with low commitment so failure doesn't have to drain your motivation.

In reply to WanderingGinger:

I’ve been much the same of late, having hammered grit for a few years, the wet weather of what feels like the last 12 months had more or less killed any enthusiasm. A chance afternoon out up on the moors last week with my old climbing partner reignited it somewhat. Go somewhere that means something to you, climb whatever takes your fancy, no matter how easy and remember why you enjoyed it in the first place - keeping fit and happy. I do it for the same reasons, and got caught in the grade chasing, worrying about not finishing an E2 and what not. Pottering on those Severes at Rob’s Rocks in good company and sunshine last week was the antidote to all that! 

In reply to WanderingGinger:

I started climbing when I was 11, nearly 34 years ago. I have gone through many periods where I have effectively "given up" climbing, due to a lack of motivation. It used to really sadden me that I no longer enjoyed something that used to consume me. 

What I have learned is that if you're not enjoying something, you shouldn't force yourself to do it - you'll only begin to resent it even more. 

So my suggestion would be to go and do something else for a while. Go running, cycling, swimming, skiing, whatever. Climbing will always be there for you, should you choose to come back.

Personally, I have always come back, just as motivated as before. And now, whenever I feel the motivation dwindle, I just accept it, knowing that at some point I'll come back. And if I don't, well, that's okay too.

PS to answer your question, the Alps, Pyrenees, and Picos de Europa all contain a lifetime of multipitch adventure climbing. There was a good article about multipitch rock routes in the Alps  recently. I'm going to the Picos myself in September to climb the classic Rabada-Navarro (6c)!

In reply to WanderingGinger:

Sorry to hear your climbing mojo has taken a break. This has happened to me several times over a 45 year climbing career. Different things have helped me, some of which others have referred to. I am even more keen on climbing now than I was as an obsessed 16 year old. What I have done at different times include:

- Take a break from climbing

- Go hill walking and scrambling

- Visit new climbing areas just to look at different crags, routes, mountains without necessarily climbing. This has often led to a motivational push or desire to do particular lines or crags

- Expand your social group, I often get re motivated by other people's infectious enthusiasm. In particular, try mixing with other climbers of different ages.

- Support or teach others to hill walk or climb if you are competent enough

- Consider a course ( maybe self rescue ) or some guided climbing in a new area

- Look out for new guidebooks, maps, magazines, videos, climbing books.

- Join a different club

- Try a different sport for a while

Thanks to those who’ve replied, it’s good to hear how others stay motivated even if it’s by taking time off. The route and other suggestions are very welcome, thanks all.
 

Andy - I’ve been back for 7 weeks, after being away for 2 years. It’s interesting to hear that you and others also struggled to find love for climbing in similar circumstances.  Maybe I should have predicted it!

In reply to WanderingGinger:

I wonder how everything else is going? How you feel about climbing is not necessarily separate from everything else going on.

I also lost my psyche recently, but I was going through pretty much the worst thing I could imagine, so... no surprise.

Maybe take the pressure off and climb with people you enjoy being around just for being around? I really found a lot of psyche just cruising long VSs in Moroccan Anti-Atlas (brilliant place) with someone I care about a lot. Beautiful places, beautiful people.

And, perhaps do something a bit new? Bizarrely to me... I got quite psyched recently whilst indulging in my love-hate relationship with grit, and climbing at Stanage. I'd previously avoided the Peak like the plague because it's full of people (bloody southerners) and it's short and midgey and popular... and it's bold and jammy and frustrating! But, a few trips recently had me feeling like I was really learning techniques (jamming, smearing, running it out) and enjoying the challenge. Again, I started off on cruisy VSs that didn't involve any pressure and slowly built up.

I do feel that longevity in climbing does involve going, every now and again, to a place that's "comfortable" and pleasurable in a very simple way.

In reply to WanderingGinger:

For Europe, Riglos. Long exciting routes, only just sport climbing, quite unique. Or Meteora, I haven't been yet but it looks to be in a similar vein.

As for home, try places out of your comfort zone, like C above I recently fell back in love with grit.

Be kind to yourself, choose the very best weather days to go out (fat chance, I know). If you aren't feeling great about climbing, suffering the weather won't help. Same applies to partners, go with people who value you and you enjoy being with. Tolerating someone for a day out should be reserved for when you are feeling more enthusiastic.

Do more than just climb when you visit places, explore the culture, it makes you want to return.

Oh, and Kalymnos, of course. Climbers Benidorm/Disneyland, enjoy it.

In reply to WanderingGinger:don’t give up as I had a stroke and still managed to do  y5,000th new route and am still doing more and now well past that so don’t give up at all

In reply to WanderingGinger:

I can empathise when I did a big expedition back in 2019. Spent about 3 years previous having it as a pipe-dream, then a full year of logistical planning to make it happen. When we got back after ticking off four virgin peaks I was immediately wondering where the next big adventure would lie. As much as I thought I'd start over again planning the next one, I knew deep down I wouldn't be able to afford the same amount of time away from work or family again and thus wasn't really content with the local crags around me. In a way, lockdown in 2020 helped matters as we were all forced to stay home, and re-evaluate what's important, and when I finally got back to climbing I really appreciated the closeness of the crags, the local community and friends I climb with. 

I guess what I'm trying to say is that even if you're feeling a bit 'out of sorts' with climbing right now, a break from it can be what you need sometimes.

If that sounds too boring or sedentary, here are another couple of ideas:

• how about making your own climbing wall at home if you've got space? 
• take up trail running as I found this was a great replacement during lockdown to get out to hard to reach places and see lots of the outdoors.
• Too late now, but ever thought of transferring your skills into winter mountaineering? Lots of psyche when the conditions come right, admittedly at the end of the year and increasingly less commonplace. But a trip to the Alps in the summer is something to work towards.

Whatever you try, I hope you get back into it. For most of us, it is a passion for life.

In reply to WanderingGinger:

Go sea cliff climbing, and if that doesn't spark the fire find another sport/fitness pass time for a while.

Just make sure there's plenty of strength work incorporated in whatever you do - the rocks will always be there, and as long as you're keeping in shape it doesn't take long to get back on it again.

In reply to WanderingGinger:

How about a new angle of attack?

Scrambling!

Well, scrambling and easy climbing as part of a longer circuit of hills/mountains.

Spend a week in North Wales or the Lake District and, if you need help with planning, buy one of the "Scrambles and Easy Climbs in..." books that cover those areas. You'll get some lovely days out. Alternatively or subsequently, if you want the climbing to be harder than Diff/VDiff then swap out some of the climbs for others or create your own enchainment.

In reply to WanderingGinger: I dont think that dreaming about distant holidays and trips is always the way forward in this situation.  You need to rediscover the joy of your local, week in weekout climbing else its a lot of hassle for a distance reward, and god help if it rains, gets cancelled .

Climb with psyched people you like. 

Climb with new people. 

Get outside - what's your most local thing, no matter how crap?

Relax re. Grades.  They'll come when you're ready

In reply to WanderingGinger:

I have a very different answer to most of the above. 

Don't do it then. 

If you don't want to, don't. 

In reply to WanderingGinger:

Rarely have I heard someone express my feelings so well!

In reply to WanderingGinger:

I tend to enjoy climbing with my mates, especially those who just enjoy having a good laugh, the real mates, the ones that you go to see or they come to see you for no reason. Have a good laugh with them, and enjoy being the underdog  for a while.

Forget pushing your limit for a while.

Get to new places and enjoy  onsights on easier routes.