UKC

Hi all,

I'm off climbing for a few weeks around Briancon in June. I've got the French Briancon climbs guide and I was wondering if anyone had any personal recommendations for good single pitch cragging around Briancon, ideally doable on a 50m rope so I don't have to buy a new one?

Any help would be gratefully received thanks.

You can certainly find single pitch climbing that you can do on a 50m rope in the area, but you will miss out on  much of the better and best climbing that  Briancon has on offer. Find someone on the camp site to climb with, with an 80m rope and offer to use your 50m whenever possible or just come out and climb on your 50m for the first week before you .just go out and biy an 80 rope.

Hi, 

Les Traverses et La Vignette was good on both sides of the road, plus we can walk there from our accommodation.
Also enjoyed Rocher Baron, although a bit  tricky to get too. We parked at bottom and walked up but most people drive around and up the long track. 

Some good single pitch slab climbing in Ailefroide.

Mont Dauphin Fort was nice and a worth a walk around the Fort too.

We will also be there in June so we might even bump in to you.

Have a great time.

Thanks for the advice both. I do agree with the idea of getting an 80 but we're mostly going for the multi pitch and alpine and just wanted a couple of ideas for the odd single pitch day. 

I had a couple good days of single-pitching at Rocher Baron -- the drive up is a bit winding, but once there, the approach is trivial, and there was a bunch of pleasant climbing, that was mostly under 25m.

Hi,

What grades are you looking for? you can do a fair bit with a 50m rope, but need to be switch on as the topo only gives a general hight for the crag not each route. so for example rocher baron has some routes you could do but some you need a longer rope. 

Although it's over ten years since I was last there, I climbed a fair bit in the area, as a good mate had an apartment up at Puy St Vincent. If you do head for  Rocher Baron, I'd recommend scrambling round to sector 1, the West Face. It should be quieter than the area nearest the car park, which can get busy, and the views are excellent. Short routes, easily doable on a 50. Just across the valley is a less-visited but very pleasant crag,  Casse De Prelles. Once again, you'll be fine with a 50. If you do invest in a longer rope, I'd recommend a visit to  Les Ayes. It's a very nice venue, set above a stream, but you need a 60. All these are close to Briancon.

You mention focussing on multi-pitch. If you mean bolted, I assume you've got the mighty  Le Ponteil on your list. Plenty of strong lines and dramatic situations. Le clos tramouillon (6a+) is an excellent 9 pitch route that finishes up on the summit.

Finally, for easier days don't forget the area boasts some superb via ferratas.

Thanks a lot for the excellent and comprehensive info.  I'll definitely check out your multi pitch suggestion. 

I guess between 5 and 7a grade wise.  So I'd definitely be tying a knot in the end on the floor so as to not lower off the end etc. 

That sounds good cheers