UKC

Since it's looking like the Salisbury Crags will be indefinitely closed, I have started to wonder:

a) How illegal is it to climb at the crags? Can they do anything other than tell you to leave the premises? From my knowledge, trespassing is only a civil offense, so all they can basically do is ask you not to climb there again?

b) How risky is the rockfall situation compared to other crags in the UK? Is it possible that the risk of rockfall is disproportionately exaggerated since there is more data for a crag that is in the middle of the city and frequently walked by tourists? I have met people who have recounted stories of witnessing fridge-sized boulders falling off various rock faces in the UK.

From going on walks along the Radical Road, I know that the crag is incredibly easy to access even with the fence in the way (the fence does not extend all the way and is easily walked around if you're willing to climb through some bushes). This made me wonder why, as climbers, we don't just boulder at the crag. I believe this would be a very valid form of protest against the recent decision to bolt a fence to the classic and historically significant rock face, especially since they have stated that with regular maintenance it should be possible for the crag to remain open. From the 2021 risk assessment, they stated: "Removal of rockfall hazards by regular scaling is a feasible option, but this would have to be repeated on a regular timescale." What are people's thoughts?

6/10

So quite risky?

It’s not a hill I’m willing to die on…

Normal access rights do not apply to Holyrood Park. Ignoring official notices is explicitly forbidden by the Holyrood Park Regulations 1971 Statutory Instrument https://www.historicenvironment.scot/media/5577/holyrood-park-regulations-1...

In practice, you are likely to be hassled by the Park Wardens and potentially fined if you don't desist. 

The current situation is ridiculous, but I suspect that individual militancy is not going to help obtain the reinstatement of access to the Radical Road and South Quarry.  Let's hope for some progress when the Strategic Plan for Holyrood Park is published sometime this year https://www.historicenvironment.scot/about-us/what-we-do/managing-the-estat...

The rockfall situation is a non-event; the whole closure was triggered by a single rockfall. Additionally the typical bouldering quarries are much more stable than the crag generally. In any case the crag is much more stable than anywhere else I can think of in the Edinburgh area.

One barrier is that the main quarry is really very overlooked by walkers, so there is no subtlety about climbing there. For that reason I prefer the Dassies and Long Row which are a bit more out of the way. A lot of it depends on your timing though.

With the crags closed, it seems the most obvious solution would just be to boulder on the parliament instead. It's conveniently close after all and it was build with public money to serve the public.

This is what I had suspected, from the response of HES they had stated that "there were at least 82 rock fall incidents, ranging in size, with the majority either small or small to medium rocks" but this feels like a number they have literally pulled out their arse, like how would they possibly know that?!!

Perhaps they've counted 82 rocks, stones and assorted pebbles at the foot of the crag.

The South Quarry is the most stable part of the whole line of crags. Pretty much all the rubble lying along the base of the rock is the result of HES crowbars, which unfortunately has also removed some stabilising blocks from routes, making them more risky (e.g. Spike Fright). But in all my (considerable) years climbing there I never had a hold break on me unexpectedly. The top meter or so is less consolidated (its dolerite after all) but the lower sections are as good as any crag. The big falls that freaked HES out were all up in the vincinity of the Great Quarry.

While I second the (frustrating but) wait to see what the consultation comes out with, there may be a day of mass trespass to highlight the issue sometime in the forseeable future.

In the meantime, I have found that quietly bouldering at the Devo Max area is generally out of sight and can be generally got away with, and you can get there without going around/under any of the fences. If the parkies give you any grief there, just claim ignorance, thank them for their service, and come back later..

+1 for the Dassies, lovely spot