UKC

Hi all,

Looking to introduce some mates to climbing by setting a top rope on some low grade routes in Dartmoor. Has anyone got any good recommendations since I have never been? Ideally I could set the anchor with a sling around a rock or tree but I have some old cans and nuts that I can use if needs be. 

Cheers

Hound Tor - the Pulpit area (the first area on the left hand side of the avenue between the rocks). 

Some static rope is useful for the block at the top but you should be able to set up a top rope anchor with cams, nuts and slings. 
 

Leigh Tor has a couple of top ropes. The climbs are on the face on the right hand side as you come in from the car park. But to set up the top rope anchors you’ll need to scramble up from the far side.

Sheepstor is probably the best for this - plenty of easier routes and simple access up the side.  You will need the nuts and cams; there are a few big boulders but you'll want to back them up.

Be aware that the grading is quite stiff (across the whole of Dartmoor), and the polish on easier routes a bit unnerving.

I didn’t suggest Sheepstor because of the stiff grading and unnerving polish. The Mod corner in the middle is awful! 

Agag’s slab area at the Dewerstone has many convenient trees above it and is often used for top roping beginners. If you want to set up a bottom rope at some of the other places mentioned, it is possible but you have to know what you’re doing - a length of static rope and rope protectors would be quite useful. 

I'm glad it's not just me...

By the the you get to Severe it's actually quite nice.

Leigh tor is great for kids climbing, although it may be too easy for adults.  People do blindfolded climbing there for team building etc.

You might put them off forever but Chudleigh might be worth visiting being not too far from the moor, plus it's in its rain shadow so can be a lot drier. I think the area which holds Salome (VD) has a handy big tree belay and maybe the wall containing eeny miny, mo etc.