UKC

Durmitorsko ogledalo - Lojanik information

New Topic
Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
 Icartsb 10 Mar 2024

Headed out to Montenegro in may and I'm pretty keen to go for this route.

I can find literally zero information on the approach to this crag, the descent (whether it's an ab or walk off) or whether it's fully or partially bolted.

Was hoping there's someone on here who has either done it or has some sort of local knowledge on it? Montenegro feels like blind spot when it comes to topos and descriptions

Thanks! 

 Blackmud 11 Mar 2024
In reply to Icartsb:

Hmm, tricky one. I had a little google around, found this page

http://montenegroclimbing.net/durmitor/lojanik/

In the second paragraph it implies that the route is both shorter (170m, although on another page they say 250m, and yet another 160m) than the claimed 310m, and easier (iii rather than iv+). It also mentions that because of its remoteness it is rarely visited, that the approach is 45mins from Dobri Do which is to the east of the peak. I did get a little confused because in the same area there is another Lojanik, 1880m, but you want Lojanik, 2091m. No sign of a path on the basic maps at the peak, but in honesty there is very likely to be a path of some sort that isn't on the map, although I would also be prepared for an abseil descent (bring a cordelette you can use for ab tat).

I can't seem to find a lot on Montenegrin sites (even googling the route in cryllic) so I employed a top tactic for climbs in the area... ask the slovenians. However even this didn't really help. On this site the third paragraph is about Durmitorsko Ogledalo area, quite brief but some info, use google translate or even better the browser plug in:

http://aao.si/kategorija-novic/aktualno/kartu-citaj-seljaka-pitaj

Overall the only other mentions I found were very short, basically just listing what people climbed. I also didnt get any impression that the climb is some kind of show stopper so if there are better alternatives in the area, maybe just go for those.

Some basic general knowledge about the region from my experience here in Croatia, not specific to your route: lack of information is pretty common, most climbing knowledge and expertise is probably concentrated and shared within clubs, so specifically messaging some climbing clubs ('alpinistički klub', alpine club, or 'Sportsko penjački klub', or SPK for short, sport climbing club) in Podgorica or Nikšić or the nearest city might help, you might find someone who has done the route. The first link I posted is from a club, Mali Alpinistički klub, so maybe start by messaging them. Here is their contact page: http://montenegroclimbing.net/kontaktirajte-nas/

From the few pictures it looks like the route mostly follows these karst runnels (called radiators, or radijatori) that are mostly pretty much impossible to protect with trad gear (except the odd sling) so people probably just clip bolts, but it is also very common, especially on easy routes, to have big run outs between bolts, although no idea about this route specifically. The info does use the word 'equipped' rather than 'partially equipped', but it is also possible to find that there are no bolts on easy pitches.

Have fun and stay safe.

OP Icartsb 01 Apr 2024
In reply to Blackmud:

Thank you so much for all this info, I'll check out the links and definitely try to get in touch with someone from both of those climbing clubs! Great idea that is.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who struggled to find decent info! 

 Blackmud 10 Apr 2024
In reply to Icartsb:

No problem, yes there isn't much out there, even in Montenegrin (that I could find). The relevant info is probably exchanged over a beer at club meets rather than written up online. Good luck and have a great trip.


New Topic
Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
Loading Notifications...