UKC

Is there a process for adding a new Crag?

Just discovered a location close to home with dozens of routes, public access and clean

Yep - hopefully this link takes you there https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/addcrag.php

brilliant.

i will spend some time developing the crag, establish some routes and then add it 


Mini

Hi Mini, 
I recognised your name from the RCI group John Rocks set up. I'd love to have a look at this crag and to help clean it up with you. I have lots of time off work between now and March.
I've also got a few crags in my neck of the woods with possibility for new lines, if you are interested. 

Cheers, Elliot

I’ll watch this with interest. If by “close to home” you mean around Sheffield then that will be an unusual discovery. 
Is it grit, or one of those whacky limestone quarries in South Yorkshire?

It's close to Langsett Water,  so North of Sheffield

 

Looks like your new crag is Langsett Bank Quarry listed in the BMC Burbage Guide p295. (Note the grid reference given in the guide is for somewhere near Birmingham! as SK207003 has been written down instead of SK203007)

Is this your video featuring the same place on YouTube?

https://youtu.be/uZLQhlPzces?si=a58wYAqgm91alKUc

bugger.  yes.

looks like is not a new find.  


i could not find a reference to it anywhere.

ah well.   it was a nice dream while it lasted

Nothing to stop you giving it a clean and a new lease of life anyway?

(I say this somewhat tongue-in-cheek, knowing myself that it's a bit less exciting sprucing up an old venue than developing a new one...a bias that goes a long way to explaining the state of various neglected crags).

I can feel the midgie bites just looking at the photos 🙂

Don't be disheartened. There will defo be new routes available to squeeze amongst the established ones. 

I think the grid ref should be SE 207 003 (the numbers were correct, but the wrong letters have been used - SK is the next block south from SE)

Not sure if this is a feature or a bug... there's a similar thing for some of the crags in the Over the Moors guide.

What Three Words is the future...

Looks like it from what I remember. I used to take in the esoteric oddities when I went out running. It was all the places which wouldn’t be worth the drive otherwise. It would be really cool if new stuff did show up, but the greater Peak area has been under intense scrutiny for a long time

https://cybergibbons.com/security-2/why-what3words-is-not-suitable-for-safe...

Quite an eye opener that.

My biggest problem with what three words, working as an outdoor professional. I have quite a diverse client base and not all have English as their first language.

I would be confident that most could read a sequence of numbers and those numbers would be understood whereas I would not be confident in the clarity of their speech with words.

For that reason I would rely on them reading a 6 digit grid reference clearly over three random English words

The main problem with what 3 words is that it's not hierarchical - which I'm sure that article will say (maybe expressing it differently).

First word should give you region, second word area within that region, third word location within that area.

Purely as an illustrative example:

• 10,000 words gives a 100x100 grid so with 10m squares...
• 3rd word gives a 1x1 km area.
• 2nd word gives a 100x100 km region.
• 1st word gives a 10,000x10,000 km coverage 

Obviously that isn't enough for global coverage (although it would cover most of the land) and it's using larger squares than W3W, but W3W uses more than 10k words and from a safety point of view you don't need squares as small as 3m.

Question - should similar words be geographically close or far apart?

I'd say for first word, they should be far apart - it should be obvious that the emergency call isn't from Timbuktu, and third word should be close together so that you'll at least be nearby, not sure about second word.

Give it a scrub and tell people it's clean and it'll probably get a bit of traffic.

ps. your pad is upsidedown

Upside down?

If I flip it over there are shoulder straps!

Is it in

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/burbage-millstone-and-beyond

This one?

You hide the shoulder straps under the velcro carpet. Stops you tripping over it and you have the carpet to clean your shoes on before climbing. 

The 2 rubber strips showing on the picture are to stop it sliding around (i.e. they should be on the floor). 

The foam will also be the wrong way round for you inside; the hard thin layer is meant to be on the top, so the force is then spread through the thicker foamier layer below. Having it upside down will mean you're more likely to bottom-out on the cushioning. 

Cover the straps with the flap 👍

The shoulder straps should be covered by the flap (which you can use to wipe your feet) the waist strap buckles should sit off the bottom edge so you don't notice them under flap. It matters for the orientation of the foam, video here for clarity flap/strap:

https://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Climbing/Bouldering-Training-Sport/C... 

not sure if it actually mentions the foam in this but it's worth looking up how a pad works as falling off from height onto the underside could do you some damage, but on the flipside is great for sitsarts when you're dropping on to your arse/back from a low height.

Every day to school day. Thank you

Yes that is correct, not how I got that wrong reading off the OS maps app 😳

Yes but not fully covered all it says is "Langsett Bank Quarry (grid ref) has a VD on the right of the entrance, along with plenty of overgrown walls. Cool!"

some of the other lines might or might not have been climbed over the year as many people have been to loads of these little grot holes over the years marked on OS maps looking for new routes/problems but don't always recorded minor lines. But as others have said just because the venue isn't new doesn't mean you can't clean up and develop some new stuff, I'm sure there are a few gaps to plug.

Ps: On the same page in the guide it lists a few other minor venues that may or may not be worth exploring in your area.

Pps: Cleaning suff up properly can take hours of effort in my experience so the perceived quality would have to be high before I invest time. Certain stuff I have cleaned has stayed climbable for years, but at other venues with drainage, aspect or vegetation issues climbs/problems I have cleaned are returning to nature. For this reason it can be hard to work out if something has been climbed before at this sort of venue if not recorded. Which also brings me to my final point that if cleaning it requires too much environmental damage for a shit route or problem is it ethical in the first place. 

any chance of a scan of that page?  would be cool to see the other spots mentioned.

i dont own the book. (yet)

Not the most positive write up for these crags but a new set of eyes can discover something different particularly if you view the venue with a bouldering focus rather than for routes you only need to find one gem.

There's also the quarry at Wharncliffe, best found by following the vague path opposite the pylon next to the Plank Gate track at the Gallipoli rock end of the crag. I think there's some old pegs in it, but it looks pretty unappealing.

There is the quarry at thurlstone as well.

Neglected by all.

Think I found that by mistake instead of the crag the first time I went to Wharncliffe but haven't been back since. It is shown on the introduction map in the BMC guide but don't think it is actually mentioned in the text. There are also a few buttress directly above the river Don too near the parking on Station Road, I went to look once as I expect others have. I can't remember if they just looked too shit to be worthwhile or another reason to why I didn't climb. Also a few buttress to the left of the main edge in the woods where there are a couple of boulder problems listed Gosling Stones on here. I did a couple of easy solos but never recorded anything. The guide also mentions there is rock to the right of The Chancer with various problems in the V3-6 range but no details are given, I walked round that sector once and I expect there was scope for new stuff but not knowing what would be new and what got done years ago I didn't record what I did

Its a pity  the quarry at  SK 29471 99786 is owned by a scrap yard,  there is a very impressive crag, probably, 15 - 18m but no access at all.

Not by all Mini - I spent the best part of 2021 cleaning it up with a few others and put up around 25/30 new routes and problems there - a good example of how sometimes these projects are worthwhile - unfortunately it doesn’t seem to get much traffic and many of the routes need a bit of vegetation removing, but only the sort of thing that could be done quick and easy. The walls have stayed clean. 

Is this thurlstone your talking about?

i was walking through there a few weeks ago.

Thurlstone quarry (high bank lane) now fenced off but still has stile access? Then yes.

There is a kissing gate at SE 22545 03566

Top of Westfield lane.

https://www.mountain.rescue.org.uk/news/lucky-escape-for-climber-at-thurlst...

Yes that’s the place - it was my friend Phil who had the fall (or rather rode the rock fall down) and I was the one to call the ambulance etc. the rest of the place is generally stable though. Good place for a spot of highballing.

Sounds more like surfing than riding 😁 bet he was checking the solidity of every hold etc for a while after that experience.

Just hiked to look at wind hill farm outcrop.

Nice little crag.  Worth an afternoon with a picnic.

Around 7m tall 

i wonder if its worth adding, just to get it in the crag list on here,  that in itself may increase traffic.