UKC

Mountaineering Scotland are running a consultation on cleaning up the OMH. They are proposing replacing ab-staions with robust fixed gear. This means bolts or a cable similar to the inn pinn.

I personally am totally in favour of bolted/chained ab stations on stacks or places like the inn pinn. It is much less wasteful and intrusive. To me the thin edge of the wedge argument doesn't add up as we can look at the inn pinn as an example of sensible pragmatic approach that has not led to mass bolting round the country.

https://www.mountaineering.scot/news/old-man-of-hoy-clean-up-consultation?f...

Why are you assuming? It tells you right there under "Current condition and action proposed"

Happy now?

Link to the facebook page where it is being discussed.

https://www.facebook.com/MountaineeringScotland/posts/790456683087785?ref=e...

The following comment I found interesting.

The Orkney Climb Club had a mass climb and clean up in 2007 and carried out 4 exped rucsacs full of old rope, pegs, crabs and tat. Within a year the belay and abseil stations were full of slings and rope again….problem not solved !

Although it would be contentious, each belay / abseil point could have stainless steel bolt lower off chains / points in suitable tangle free locations. This is the only way this issue will be reduced or reduced and safety increased.

Sad that climbers of all people can't manage to clear up their own crap...pretty simple rule to remove at least as much if not more tat than you leave...

Personally I will be sad to see any "official" ab/belay gear on this iconic stack but to be honest it's gonna fall down at some point so probably not worth getting over-invested in

Finally some sensible opinions from people that matter vis-a-vis the pile of shit people seem to love at ab stations in the UK.

Fixed that for you

Link to the other thread.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/bolted_anchors_on_the_old_man-7...

However, you are using it to justify bolting the OMH, so it was the thinnest edge of the wedge, and you want hammer the wedge in further?

"bolting the OMH", as you put it, sounds like adding bolt runners.  That isn't what's being proposed.

Yes, not sure why he felt the need to start another one. Losing the argument and wanted to start again perhaps😉

Well that would solve the problem. It's a shit route anyway 😉

Odd comment - there are no bolts on the Inaccessible Pinnacle. 

I was talking about the wire strop. I thought this obvious.

Yes I know, which is why it was very odd to make so much of the fact that it has not led to a mass proliferation of bolting!

Not really as it's often described as the thin edge of the wedge. Which was my entire point.

Bolts are a massive step beyond replacing tat with a steel strop. There really is no reason to believe one would lead to the other.