UKC

Sad to read that a bolt has been placed on Orange Sunshine, (2776,"Burdah - Wadi Rum") which had adequate natural pro and never more than VS. Rum should be about adventure. Don't destroy it.

That does seem sad, but, with Rum becoming so much more popular in the last few years, I fear there will be an increasing demand for this sort of thing and more convenience climbing in general (which, of course, is not really what the place should be all about).

Cannot imagine why, I thought it was reasonably protected. Sad.

I saw the thread title and thought this was going to be a 'Robert on acid' exposė!

Good chance this was done by a Jordanian climber. They don't all share the UK trad ethic.

I think it was used as the location for one of the episodes of “The Climb”, which is a reality tv show / competition. Here’s the trailer, if you haven’t already seen it  youtube.com/watch?v=wKUce1x-njY&

I’m going to take a wild stab in the dark and say that you would probably not enjoy watching “The Climb”. Although Aquaman is in it, as well as Chris Sharma.

Do you have a robust source for that statement?

I know nothing about Jordanian climbers, but I'm pretty sure not all UK climbers share the UK trad ethic, whatever that may be.

You describe the aforementioned bolt in your article ! Haha

there are some long and enjoyably bold easier sections but the distinct crux is protected by a judiciously placed bolt. 

I have certainly heard Rum locals who are far from anti bolt.

There are now quite a few modern well bolted routes as well as older ones with the odd bolt and classics with bolted abseil descents. Most but maybe not all of the modern bolted routes have been put up by continental climbers.

I think the best that can be hoped for is that bolting is confined to the blanker faces and done in ways which do not detract from the adventure of the trad routes by facilitating escapes or descents and so on.

Oops! I had forgotten that! Not so new then. I confess that it was the only route in the article I had not personally climbed, though some close friends had recently done so and I wanted to include it to add variety to the selection.

I would disagree with this statement, Jordanian trad climbers, which number about 10 are a close community and know the ethics well.  They will not add bolts to old existing trad routes except in exceptional circumstances.  

Looked in your profile and seems you are local or at least spend some time there. Do you know the local climbers, or are you maybe one of them?

Tony Howard above, who started the thread, did the first ascent of the route and is not happy with a bolt being there. Do you think the locals could have a rethink and a talk between themselves (yourselves?) as to whether the bolt is really necessary or preferred given he says there is suitable natural protection?

Which article are we talking about? 

Its not really our place to say what they can and can't do.  It's their national park, their rules. A bolt might help local guides which might increase participation for Jordanians to experience their national park which might encourage more into climbing etc.  The barrier to entry for trad climbing in Jordan is already very high, you can't even buy the guide book.  The majority of climbers in rum are wealthy Europeans on holiday. 

I do know most of the local climbers both from the Amman and rum village and I doubt they will have the time and resources to go remove a bolt. They all have a high respect for Tony and some know him personally so you could say there is a direct lineage for the "British ethics".   

Orange sunshine is an easier route and I know guides might use it for customers. There are many camps owned by people from the gulf and it is possible that one of their guides placed the bolt so they can work. There is little communication between the locals and people from the gulf.   

Wadi Rum is sandstone and very soft in places, in my opinion, many routes are likely to be different to how they were 40 years ago when they were first climbed which the guide book is based off.

edit: the article in question in the one from 2016. 

The line for Orange sunshine is a bit vague and you can see from the log books lots of people get lost. I did not come across the peg 2 years ago when I did it but some one else did in a year later. It could be that the peg is not even on the real route and someone used it for escape. 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/wadi_rum_-_a_desert_sandst...

Somewhat dated now on some of the general information. 

The real threat to Rum is the proliferation of these tourist "camps" (many actually luxury hotels) run by outsiders bringing nothing to the local economy, sometimes in the so-called protected area, totally out of character with the desert and basically trashing the place. I don't like bolts in Rum, but they are nothing compared to the devastation of this unsustainable tourism infrastructure. The locals sre getting squeezed out of their own desert and it is desperately sad. 

A bit tangential to the thread, but the most popular routes are certainly showing obvious signs of wear. On my last visit at the end of 2022, I climbed three of the greatest classics (all Tony's), Merlin's Wand, The Beauty and The Haj for my fourth time on each. All were decidedly sandier and a bit harder with positive edges wearing away, having probably received more ascents in the last couple of years than in all the time before that. In particular, the direct fourth pitch of The Beauty has gone from being technical but positive to slippery and insecure above the belay ledge. I think I'll try to avoid these routes in future, though partners are always understandably keen to do them!

That's not what I've seen. The Zalabeih tribe - basically most of the population of Rum - have an enormous say in what goes on in their area. They are absolutely not subjugated by outside interests and shouldn't be considered victims. They recognised the potential of tourism a long time ago and went all in. Most of the tourist infrastructure is run by Zalabeihs.

Those I know best in Rum are Zalabia and have expressed dismay at outsiders building the worst excesses of camps for high end tourists who come straight in by 4WD spend a night or two in their air conditioned pod, instagram a sunrise and head straight out. I've seen camps in the desert with artificial palm trees and a swimming pool! I have heard that corruption has led to building within the protected area. 

Yes, the local Zalabia have embraced visitors, but generally with far less intrusive camps and with money going directly to locals. 

Anyway, it would be interesting to hear Tony's take on all this because he has far deeper connections with the people of Rum than myself and, I presume, you.

Aquaman’s in the trailer, he’s not in the show, he pulled out. And the show’s terrible, they edited it to make a real jerk out of Chris Sharma who you only get to see smile only once, when he gets to fire his favorite victim. Highly not recommended.

There are definitely people in Rum who aren't happy with mass tourism and the proliferation of camps. Many think it has all gone too far. Worse than the luxury camps are the abandoned ones which nobody removes. Some people have decided not to get involved in the tourist industry at all and choose to make their living from herding. Likewise, some French climbers prefer to seek out trad lines far from the crowds!

During Covid - which you could have thought would have had a huge negative impact on the community - many seemed quite nostalgic for the old days. Some bought goats and moved back into the desert; had time to go hunting. People remarked how pristine the desert looked without 4x4 tracks everywhere.

However, when the tourists came back there was the same frenzy to cater for them. Even more so than before.

I may have been to the camp with the swimming pool you mention. Is it the one with wooden walkways between the tents and domes? I was invited there by the owner for a meal with some locals. He didn't live in Rum but had a connection with the Zalabieh tribe and was respected in the community.

I guess I take issue with the idea that the locals have no agency with what happens in their area. From what I've seen, more than anywhere else in Jordan, they are able to live by their own rules. During Covid it was a haven. Literally!

I can see why Aquaman would pull out; it’s more of a job for Spiderman. It does sound a terrible program and not even in a funny way. 

When I visited last year, I was also surprised by the sheer number of luxury camps. though it seems that they were mostly being concentrated in certain specific areas.

But my impression was that the majority of these new camps were run by the local tribes.  While they are sporting Oakleys and driving expensive 4x4s from their profits, from what I saw they still maintain a lot of their traditions in a fairly genuine way. And from conversations I had elsewhere in Jordan, the locals of Wadi Rum seem to be respected for being business savvy, while still remembering their roots.

This was my impression, but I confess I don't have a detailed understanding, and it was based on a pretty quick visit.

Regarding any bolting, I think it's ultimately the choice of the people who live and work there.

More to the point, has anyone been since last Oct? Certainly doesn't look like the Middle East situation is going to improve any time soon.