UKC

I'm planning on taking the kids (trad) climbing this weekend, but it's looks still, warm and midgy.

My only thoughts are Willersley and Laddow so far. 

They climb at around VS. 

Coming from Sheffield. Any other ideas?

Dovedale so you can jump in the river after. 

Lawrencefield and Yarncliffe are both good options. Both have shaded areas, and should escape the midges. Padley Gorge is nearby if you wish to have an post-climb swim as well!

How about Shining Clough for some classic VS/HVS if you're considering walking into Laddow?

Pisa Superdirect, East Rib, Phoenix Climb, Stable Cracks are all excellent.

No midges up on Bleaklow last weekend, though it was in full sun...

A similar walk in and height, but nearer Sheffield, is Dovestone Tor with a good selection of routes around VS/HVS and some classics.

Lawrencefield has been midgey hell for a few weeks now.

Staden??

Kinder northern edges?

Anything on the north side of bleaklow?

That VS on plum buttress chee dale??

Snakes Alive (VS 4c)

I think those quarries will be too still, really, but thanks.

Bit if a drive, but good shout

Yeah, probably go for Dovedale or Shining Clough, thanks.

Long drive or long walk...

Just to say snakes alive involves crossing the river so bringing spare shoes can be good.

Would also recommend taking some tat for the anchor on that route (snakes alive). I equalised the 2 pegs to enable an abseil off the back but if you wanted to come back down the route to the front of the church then the current anchor is dangerous (a single strand of very crusty old dyneema). The other alternative would be a very chossy scramble up to the anchors on the other routes, which I really wouldn't recommend. 

Ten Craters of Wisdom (VS 5a) is one of the best single pitch VS routes I've done. I thought it was outstanding. Approach is a bit of a scree-slide though. 

You mean the one on that link that starts with "32m, 2 pitches" 😁 - just being pedantic, I know full well that it can be done in one pitch.

Thor's Cave would provide shade but the choice of routes at the desired grades is a bit limited.

Re : Ten Craters of Wisdom.

Start up Silicon, descent ( abseil or free climb) back of pinnacle leads directly to the start of Ten Craters. A good multipitch outing. 

John

They don't need much of an excuse for a swim

Yeah, cheers. I'll take up some tat and sort out if we go

I don't know why you would do it in 2 pitches, it's straight up and you'd have done something silly if you end up back on the ledge from the crux. It's a standard single pitch route. 

Traditionally described in 2 pitches, probably because it shares the "first" with Simeon and Simeon Direct (which feels more independent than you'd think), both of which predate TCoW.

A quick abb to the midway belay allows you to do all 3 pretty quickly and I would recommend doing TCoW last because it's the best of the three.

In which case do not spoil some of the fun by finishing up TCoW when doing S or SD. Not sure why Rockfax description has this when they traditionally finish to the right of TCoW (maybe neglected and dirty).