UKC

Hi folks, 

A group of us are headed to swanage this weekend (destination already fixed with accommodation booked) and I'm looking for views on what sectors are likely to be climbable in the conditions. 

Forecast shows SSW winds around 45 km/hr with a 3m swell. 

Does anyone have experience of the sea cliffs in those conditions? Are we likely going to be confined to the quarries or are places like Guillemot Ledge, Cattle Troughs, Subluminal likely to be ok?

Thanks, appreciate any insights.

In reply to Conor1:

Low tide is mid afternoon which would be encouraging but I've been soaked on Subluminal ledges in lesser conditions.  I think it'll have waves breaking on it or at least spray.

In reply to Conor1:

I’d drive over to Portland and find a place out the wind!

In reply to Conor1:

St aldhelm’s head will be fine, but it’s a bit loose as it has less traffic.

In reply to Conor1:

Recent UKC thread:  Judging sea cliff conditions. Posts were largely about Swanage

In reply to Conor1:

I think you're in for a soaking if you go anywhere near sea level. I'm over at Lulworth (not climbing) and there is a pretty big residual swell from the last high wind period. Another storm is going to make it pretty intense to say the least, and looking at sufline, the wave period is at 13s between sets, meaning there'll be some hefty power behind those waves! I'd head for Portland if I were you, but understand you've probably booked near Swanage to get some trad routes in. 

In reply to Conor1:

Thanks all, appreciate the insights and advice

In reply to Conor1:

One of the best areas I've found (although maybe not with 3m swell) is the Lightning Wall area as the marmolata Buttress gives good shelter.

In reply to GrahamD:

I think this might be a recipe for a loooong prussick in 45kph SSWesterlies, but you might have better familiarity than me. 

Martin

In reply to Conor1:

One of the older guidebooks for Swanage - printed on waterproof paper IIRC - had some "enlightening" photos of lots of spray breaking over the top of the cliffs, not sure if it was Boulder Ruckle but it was one of the full height bits.

In reply to archibaldie:

Given that the quarry walls tend to face south or south west even the sport climbing will be challenging.

As you say St Aldhelms head would be doable. In fact a couple of the climbs may even be out of the wind…

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/st_aldhelms_head-2866/?highlight=4...

In reply to Michael Hood:

IIRC that was the Richard Crewe guide.Those pictures may have been of spray breaking over a nautical mile marker pylon above Fisherman's Ledge.

In reply to Conor1:

As others have said the all sea cliffs will be out. Cattle Troughs will be especially dangerous. On Saturday the flood tide will be bringing bigger swells to the cliff from about 1.30pm.

The quarries will be dripping  considering the rain we've been having, it poured again last night. You might find some shelter at Winspit but seepage will be a problem. The walk in to Dancing Ledge will be a boggy mud fest! 

I'd normally recommend a walk along the cliff top to look at the waves, but it will be very muddy and even more slippery, stay clear.

St Aldhelm's Head is an exhilarating place to be in a storm. The walk in is long but not muddy and you can find sheltered nooks to eat your lunch. The upper ledge bouldering is ok without a mat, and the  climbing around One Nut Crack (VS 5a) is usually sheltered and is on good rock; this area doesn't seep much as there is no ground above it.

In reply to Martin Hore:

Well you can easily look down and see the base before committing .

In reply to GrahamD:

You can to a degree. But one time I remember we looked down on a dry day and everything seemed OK. Two of our team abbed down and then frantically signaled to us not to follow. They had found the bottom 15m or so completely soaked with fine blown sea spray and impossible to climb anywhere at our grade. That's when the long prussik ensued. 

Martin

In reply to Martin Hore:

Well it is Swanage and proper sea cliff experience is not to be ruled out !  My point wasn't that Lightning Wall area was guaranteed (see sea cliff experience above), just that it provides one of the most sheltered section of that part of the coast and is often overlooked because everyone knows the Ruckle is exposed, right ?  Whereas in fact you can often get good climbing here even when 'safer' options like Subluminal are being battered.