UKC

What are the main factors that go into whether a route gets bolted?

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 lyndon alcock 07 Mar 2024

I had recently been to a crag with absolutely shocking/non-existant protection, many climbs with no logs on UKC (probably 70% of the climbs had no logs) and all of the top outs have mud and are overgrown ect. I had thought to myself that it would make a good sport crag. This would resolve the issues of top outs and lack of protection. In this specific instance i'm pretty sure the reason it hasn't been bolted is because of land ownership (I will leave you guys to guess at where I am talking about). However It made me wonder how stuff like arbroath ends up being sport worthy and most people can agree. While other routes end up being trad worthy and nobody ever complains even though its clearly much better as a sport route.

 DaveHK 07 Mar 2024
In reply to lyndon alcock:

In Scotland now it's pretty much down to who discovers the crag. If they're sport oriented it'll get bolted, if they're not it won't. The notion of a consensus around what's suitable and what isn't has gone if it was ever really a thing.


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