UKC

Hi guys,

Just wondering what the procedure is for requesting that route grades get changed on UKC, to reflect (e.g.) both recent guidebook updates, and consensus grades on the voting function?

I ask because I got two ticks I'm particularly proud of at Pembroke this weekend - Baker's Door, and World War III Blues - which are both a grade lower on UKC (and in the Rockfax) than the consensus grades, and the more recent CC guides.

Baker's Door would be my first E2, and WWIII my first E1 jamming crack, so it would be great if the old log book could show this accordingly.

Yes, I am aware that this is incredibly lame. But humour me?

In most places, the moderator for a crag can update grades. Technically, the moderator could put any grade they felt like but it's recommended for grades to reflect the most recent logbook.

A lot of Pembroke crags are different because for crags that Rockfax produce guides for, the UKC logbook grade is locked to the most recent Rockfax guide (presumably so that the UKC and Rockfax databases match and voting information remains relevant). That generally works quite well in the Peak where Rockfax's guides are regularly updated and fairly well-regarded.

I don't think it works so well in Pembroke where the Rockfax guide hasn't been updated in years and the more recent CC/Wired guides are often more accurate with their grading, in my opinion.

Thanks Luke. And I agree! The Pembroke Rockfax was I'm sure great when it came out, but the second edition that is currently retailing is now 10 years old, and has definitely been superseded by the CC/Wired guides.

Fingers crossed I can get the moderators to enable my pathetic log book addiction...

If it's a Rockfax route then moderators can't change the grade, but there is a "report grade discrepancy" option (or something like that) to flag it with Rockfax who may or may not decide to upgrade.

Hi Paul

I have changed those two.

Baker's Door (E1 5b) and World War III Blues (HVS 5b)

We reviewed all the Pembroke grades last year when we updated the app version but it looks like these two got overlooked. If there are any more people find then let me know.

Overall the Rockfax app version of Pembroke is actually more recent and up-to-date than the Wired guide and has something like another 350 routes to the 2009 version and geo-located maps. https://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/rockfax-app/pembroke/

If you do report routes there is a red button specifically designed for this. On the climb click 'Update Climb Info' then 'Report Major Discrepancy'.

It is also a really big help to us if you can type the route you are reporting into the boxes above the posting box since that hotlinks them in your post.

Cheers

Alan

Thanks Alan, hugely appreciated. My obsession with my logbook just got a little more unhealthy...and knowing that the way forward is to click the Report Major Discrepancy button is only going to compound things. But thanks!