UKC

Routes for an introduction to Scottish winter

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 Csimp1 05 Nov 2018

Hi,

Following a resounding response on my previous thread, I've redrafted and reposted: 

My mate and I are looking to fit in a 3 or 4 day winter climbing trip over the end of the Christmas vacation or shortly after to Scotland. We are looking for ease of transport - we have cars which we can use (although if people have suggestions of areas we can access by public transport it'd give us some ideas) and reasonably cheap (both poor students) . We both have access to good quality climbing kit (boots, crampons, axes etc) and have spent about 10/11 days in crampons in the Alps and Scotland - but under the supervision if an instructor. We are both fairly good summer climbers and have a lot of summer walking experience. We are looking to do maybe a ridge and a couple of gullys, and were wondering what location people would  recommend then beyond that, any specific routes people had in mind.

Cheers, 

Ciaran 

 JHiley 05 Nov 2018
In reply to Csimp1:

Oh well it depends on the.....

I suppose you already know this but the obvious one is Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda for the combination of reliable conditions, (relatively) short walk in and easy routes that are not too long. For easy routes it does sort of need consolidated snow for gullies though which might be a problem as early in the season as December. I've never been before late Jan. The Runnel (II) is a good easy gully because it has lots protection in the walls and is mostly grade I ground with a short chimney which contains a couple of  more challenging 'mixed' or hopefully icy moves. The crux chimney is also not far above a good belay point.

The popular alternative for when the gullies aren't in condition is the Fiacaill Ridge (II) which can be climbed at about II (a bit like scrambling difficulty but with the added awkwardness of crampons and ice) but can also be escaped to more of a walk on the right.

Be wary of avalanche conditions and cornices on gullies and also of suitable descents. It can be worth having a plan to get to the big cairn at the top of Fiacaill a coire chais (the other ridge) if the goat track is dodgy.

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