UKC

Members recieved an email today saying that the wall at Inverness leisure centre is to close at the end of March. Sad news, especially as it was such good value for Highlife members.

Word has it that the new Ledge wall will be opening around the same time, so Inverness won't necessarily be without a wall, but I suspect there will be a fair few that'll be sad to see the old place close.

Bump! Surprised there's no comment on UKC about this.

I was going to comment earlier but it's not really my patch. I've only visited the wall once of a boulder comp. While the new bouldering facility is likely to be great, I'd be surprised if it suits everyone. I'm sure there must be a cohort of climbers who just want to visit a roped wall for some recreational F4-F6a climbing. So yes, a shame to loss that type of facility.

That is sad to hear, as I'd have hoped there'd be enough business to sustain it - even with the new wall opening.

I remember going there years ago, back when I worked for DMM, and it had a nice, low-key, old school feel. Seemed well used at the time too, and I'm assuming it still is, so it's sad to see it go - especially given how competitively priced it was for locals.

Hi Gaz,

I've been sending some messages trying to find out more about this. It's not at all clear that the Ledge will be offering similar provision to the current wall or that it will even be open in time. There are also potential issues around cost for a lot of users, families for example may be priced out of going to the ledge. Duncan says he didn't know anything about the decision to close the existing wall and had in fact been told it would remain open.

I think we need a whole lot more info on what's happening and then it may be necessary to mount some sort of campaign to ensure continued provision.

Whatever happens this has been incredibly poorly handled by HLH. Zero info, zero consultation.

I think many of us feel that HLH have just been looking for an excuse to shut the wall and the ledge has provided one.

There were lots of shocked and angry people there yesterday evening.

Cheers,

Dave

A petition has been organised.

https://chng.it/GXykqxYQ2Q

Interesting, I haven't heard much about the new place (not my patch either). 

In what way is it not likely to suit everyone. What sort of facility is it going to be?

I only went to the sports centre one a couple of times, and I seem to remember enjoying it. Nothing ground breaking, but we had a pleasant few evenings in there. 

https://www.climbing.com/gym-climbing/how-climbing-gyms-lost-their-souls/

American, yes but ultimately the same is happening. 

Do you remember when climbing walls were basically a bit rubbish? Pathetic nostalgia from me. 

Thanks for the link, I've signed.

Yes, it does seem a particularly short sighted decision. I suspect the decision-makers at HLH won't appreciate that the leisure centre wall and the Ledge offer different climbing experiences. Many people really value the wall for it's routes, and it's not clear that the Ledge will replicate that.

As far as I'm aware it's primarily going to be a bouldering facility like TCA.  I expect they'll squeeze in some short autobelay routes but unlikely anything of the height of the leisure centre wall.

Agreed Gaz, even though i set at the wall for years i always found it very limited, but you get what you pay for. Inverness wall may well have been the cheapest in the country, it was well used and loved by many, for me it was brilliant to be able to have a swim with my boy then pop in for a quick mess around on the boulder wall with him.

I think Murd's point about the lead facilities at the new wall not being as good is fair but i do think that a lot of people are jumping on the band wagon of slating Duncan before he has had a chance to respond to various queries and worries re the Ledge and how it operates.

I think most folk would agree that the Inverness wall had a fantastic atmosphere despite it's limited nature. i will miss its dusty scene.

I've just had a look at The Ledge's facebook page.  I perhaps do them a disservice.  There does look to be fair few roped lines maybe up to 9m tall.

youtube.com/watch?v=aih0Uh4xtW8&

https://www.facebook.com/ledgeclimbing/posts/pfbid02QvcQPFE56KTbVPkAJDabRPN...

Don't get me wrong, I'm really looking forward to The Ledge opening. I hardly ever climb at the wall now that I have a board at home because the bouldering there is limited, but I'll be keen to boulder at the ledge. I know there will be some routes at The Ledge, but looking at the plans I think it's fair to say it's primarily a bouldering wall. I suspect there will be a sizeable group of people that mostly climb the routes at the wall that won't feel as well catered for at The Ledge.

The last few times I've tried to go to the wall it's been at capacity and I've not got in! There's probably enough climbers to support both walls!

Sounds like they need to put up their prices to discourage some people so there is space for everyone that wants to climb there. Market economics, init.  

I think that's a fair statement Gaz and pretty much sums up the general feeling about the current situation. 

Also agree that there is more than enough bodies to support 2 climbing walls

Back when the climbing wall development boom started I remember existing walls getting really gripped about the fact that other walls were effectively going to half their business, then when the other walls opened they just found that increased demand and created more climbers. As a result, I really don't think either wall has anything to worry about. If anything, they've got quite a lot to be positive about, as I suspect the scene will grow as a result of both resources being available - plus they're so different they actually compliment each other quite nicely.

I went to that wall just once many years ago when I had a girlfriend in Inverness. If it hadn't compared so unfavourably to Ratho I might have considered moving to Inverness, and, who knows, my life might have turned out very differently! 

In fact Inverness is still the only place I would consider moving to and a top class wall might just swing it.......

The email notification from Highlife (although you’d be forgiven for thinking it came from the other place): 

We are writing to you as an Inverness Climbing Wall customer to let you know that Indoor climbing in Inverness is about to reach an exciting new level, when local charity, ‘The Ledge’ will open a brand new, state of the art climbing wall next month.
 
The new climbing facility will have areas for beginners and experts, a lead climbing wall, bouldering walls, and Olympic standard bouldering wall and a dedicated children’s area. The facility will also have a strength and conditioning area for those who want to include climbing related personal fitness in their training.
 
‘The Ledge’ will also be a café as well as having an outdoor retail provided by Alpkit.
 
There has been an indoor climbing facility at Inverness Leisure in the Bught, which was installed in the late 1990’s and High Life Highland is pleased to have been part of the development of the sport over the years.
 
For around the last 25 years, the climbing wall at Inverness Leisure has introduced many people to the sport as well given climbers the opportunity to develop their skills, leading to some Highland young people being able to succeed in competitive climbing.
 
It has also been a place for climbers to meet other people and enjoy the social aspects of the sport in a warm and dry environment. The Highland area has some great outdoor climbing and at the time it was installed, the Inverness Leisure wall was innovative, with a lead climbing area which sought to mimic the outdoor climbing environment.
 
A specialist climbing facility in Inverness has been long awaited.
 
Climbing wall design has moved on considerably since the Inverness Leisure wall was installed and the new facility at ‘The Ledge’ will provide all that has been possible at Inverness Leisure and more.
 
This message to you is to advise that with development of this brand new, specialist facility has brought High Life Highland to the decision that now is the right time to hand over the ‘indoor climbing wall’ baton to the Ledge to ensure that neither organisation is ‘competing’ to attract customers from each other.
 
For this reason, HLH has taken the decision to close the Inverness Leisure climbing wall at the end of March, at which time the space will used to accommodate additional programming at Inverness Leisure without impacting on the wall climbers.
 
High Life Highland and The Ledge have agreed to work together to give the new venture every chance of success, with High Life Highland expecting to continue running its current facility up to the end of March by which time the Ledge will be open. During the transition it has agreed to keep existing climbing wall customers up to date on the new wall.
 
High Life Highland would thank all its climbing customers over the last 25 years and is encouraging you to support The Ledge as a new Highland charity. We all want to see the sport of climbing go from strength to strength and wish the new facility every success and wish the new venture every chance of success for the future.

Signed. I can't see "parkour style bouldering" being of much interest to many of us older climbers!

Yeah, but that's a very long time ago, half bricks sticking out of a brick wall, bits of rock cemented in, scaffolding bar along the top to run the ropes around... good olde days, full of character, but not the greatest climbing experience. 

I got the email from Inverness Leisure and didn't even read it as it had a generic title with nothing relating to the climbing wall!!

I have lots of fond memories of the place and enjoy the occasional visit so think it would be a shame if it just disappears. Petition signed!

Definitely well used, folks are often having to wait for lines most evenings and frequently folks getting told to wait in reception until space is available as it's not exactly a big wall. Not the sign of a dying unused wall really. 

Had they decided to close it in 6 or 9 months due to it being unused then folks might not be quite so upset. However to close with no consultation and whilst it's rammed just seems bonkers. I've spent most of my non work time today writing letters and complaints (8 councillors, 8 MSPs, one MP and a complaint to the provider all submitted plus petition signed and shared). 

There are more than enough climbers up here to sustain both walls. 

https://www.change.org/p/save-highlife-highland-inverness-leisure-climbing-...

The petition is now around 750 signatures. It would be great to get some more.

My personal experience of a roped climbing centre being replaced by a modern bouldering wall is simply that certain demographics simply stop climbing, not a very good outcome. 

Interesting to hear that - cos my first thought was 'cosy boys club carve up' the way the email was worded - Instead it looks like Inverness Leisure just fitted the Ledge up good and proper...

the ledge should have ~ 10 lead / TR / Auto belay lines, plus 7 shorter Autobelays lines for the kids, on top of the bouldering areas.

https://www.theledgeclimbing.com/the-ledge-bouldering-and-climbing-gym/

how many lines does the current wall have?

It's great the ledge is opening and I'm really looking forward to going, but they are obviously not equivalent facilities.

No, it will definitely be a change, as others have said most expected both to remain open, at least until the demand was better understood.

But there are a lot of comments on it being bouldering only, while the Ledge is a modern, boulder focused, facility with lead and TR capabilities. 

the old wall doesn't have that may more lines than the ledge will if you count the children's area... So hopefully most should be able to get to climb what they prefer while all the young folk are bouldering

https://www.highlifehighland.com/il/climbing-wall/

I agree. Bouldering is a watered down version of roped climbing much as bolted climbing is a watered down version of trad and that, in itself, is only a microcosm of mountaineering. 

Narrowing the field of interest will potentially limit the inspiration for kids and newcomers given by the wonderfully experienced and entertaining types that you can meet.

If folk are queuing already for one facility the problem is just being shifted to another of the same size surely?

I'd put money on it being a pure budget related decision. Probably with artificially inflated figures.

You've made a good point and its less black and white than how I simply put it.

I'm really excited to see what the ledge do, one aspect of their mission is to offer disadvantaged young people a way into climbing and the outdoors. Having a few smaller roped lines will definitely add alot to the experience for these young people. 

I do see it still as a mainly ropes center with abit of bouldering being replaced by a bouldering centre with a few roped lines. Hopefully there's a way to try keeping both open. There's a petition here to hopefully try this out: https://www.change.org/p/save-highlife-highland-inverness-leisure-climbing-... 24

It's actually a bit difficult to work out the difference between the roped climbing provision in each venue. It looks like the ledge has 5-8 less roped lines. Given how busy the old wall gets at times that's a major issue.

Yes if everyone want to do routes, but the bouldering is 10x the size if I read it right… from the demand it seems clear that both would be better, but hopefully there will be at least similar capacity in more modern facilities if the petition doesn’t change their minds.