UKC

Yesterday I did my first PE session of this training block. As I spent relatively little time climbing (1 min on, 2 min off X 10) I also did 30min ARC afterwards. I couldn't help but wonder if doing it in this order, so starting the ARC having already worked hard, meant it was actually junk miles (as I'd call it if running) as possibly all it served to do was add to fatigue and so slow recovery for the next session(?)

I know the proof will be in the pudding - how do I feel on tomorrow morning's board session - but I thought I'd ask those who have more knowledge of energy systems than me what your thoughts are? 

Many thanks. 

By PE, I assume you are referring to Power Endurance. From what I have read and from speaking with experienced coaches, doing an ARC session after a more intense session is beneficial.

Alex Barrows wrote a very good article a few years ago on training and energy systems and that does say that aerobic capacity (ARC) can be done after anaerobic power. The article is available here;

https://www.trainingbeta.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/1.-Alex-Barrows-Tra...

I'm sure others will contribute who know much more than I do.

CB.

Thanks.

Yes, PE - power endurance. 

You're welcome.

My own training involves a lot of ARC to maintain that base level fitness and ability to recover when very pumped on a sport route and very pumped and frightened on a trad route.

Over the winter I do a lot of bouldering (structured or not) for training and will always do an ARC session afterwards. That is simply 2 x 10 minutes very easy traversing or on an auto belay, if available, with a very light pump in the forearms, nothing that even needs a shake out for.

CB.

This is what I've done, which isn't dissimilar to you -

ARC (as you describe it in terms of pump) in the Autumn - 2 x1hr continual climbing (as described below.) build base, give tweaks from last Summer time to calm down and good prep for winter climbing. Also one sociable, have fun, bouldering session a week.

Last few months - Transition into two bouldering / board sessions a week and try hard (stop when feeling power dropping off) and a load of antagonistic exercises. Alongside this one 1hr continual climbing (up and down) on auto belay ARC session a week.

I'm now intended to swap out the ARC for PE, but yesterday added ARC in after PE because of the low volume of climbing.

In a month start two PE and one board session rather than the present two board sessions and one PE.

Fingerboard throughout. 

Previously I think I've been guilty of ARCing too hard and not bouldering hard enough so meet in the middle re effort rather than the recommended high / low approach. As a result I'm conscious to try to not do this. However, with two power board sessions a week (lots of sitting around between attempts) and effectively only 10 minutes of 'hard' climbing in my PE session at the moment, it doesn't feel like enough actual climbing, hence adding some ARC in yesterday.  But is that counter productive in terms of recovery?...

Sorry for the ramble - trying to give context.

Doing the ARC session will definately put a little bit of additional load on your body, so it will have some negative effect on your recovery. How much depends on how hard ARC session really is, how much training load you can tolerate and other things that have an effect on your recovery (e.g. sleep, nutrition, other life stresses). So in the end you need to try it out and see how it feels to really assess the effects. Do you recovery enough for the next session to be high quality one? If yes, you should not have an issue from a recovery point of view. If you still feel sore the next session, it would probably be a good idea to cut the ARC and see how it feels.

The other even more important question that you ask yourself is, what do you want to achieve with the ARC session? In case you don't have a good answer for that (and just that it adds more volume to your training is not one ), that should be a strong hint to cut it out, as it not providing any value and the time could be better spend elsewhere (e.g. recovering, stretching, antagonist training, etc.).

Thanks for that. In my mind it's to add ARC to maintain base and use as technique practice.

The proof will be in the pudding shortly, (about to go to the wall,) but I feel pretty recovered this morning...