UKC

Looking for some advice... I've noticed increased achey-ness mild pain from both my shoulders and I think more specifically rotator cuff, over the past few weeks, particularly when I wake up.

Background.... I've been at the wall 2/3 times a week pretty consistently over the winter, and in particular spending more time on the board (had previously dabbled but not sustained on it). That said I've done sod all finger boarding vs this time last year. 

Im concerned of aggravating rotator cuff past an irreversible point but also would ideally like to keep up with training over the next month or so. The obvious thing to do would be drop board climbing as this is the significant change from previous winters, but I am seeing the dividends of consistency.

Sooooo, long story short, Im looking for advice on if a low level of discomfort with rotator cuff is ok, as long as it doesn't get any worse, or should I be completely resting? 

Im aware of the training resources on rotator cuff rehab etc so looking for more general real world experience.

Cheers

Luke

Do you feel lucky?

Personally I'd dial back the training, get some soft tissue work done and increase strengthening/pre-hab work until it feels settled.

Consequences to your training and climbing of overdoing the rotator cuff can be severe and prolonged, consequences of backing off for a couple of weeks are pretty limited.

Its well worth having a consultation with a local physio that has knowledge of climbing injuries and they should point you in the right direction if you should rest or do more targeted exercises to help.

Just to note, I wish I'd been inclined to act in this manner *before* I found out the hard way that it is a good idea 😁

Agreed, stepping back a bit and doing strengthening/rehab. I got this recently https://www.processphysiotherapy.co.uk/the-self-rehabbed-climber and feel it covers the principles of rehab/prevention well and gives a clear structure for working on a number of common climbing injuries (including rotator cuff). You can find similar stuff elsewhere but it’s well packaged and explained in this.

Ease off straight away and seek expert advice.

I didn’t and now have a badly torn subscapularis tendon and am looking at a very long recovery and rehabilitation time.

The injury has also caused other shoulder issues which are having to be treated now as well.

My whole 2023 is not looking particularly positive for me at the moment.

If I had stopped as soon as I started to feel discomfort things would probably be different.

CB.

In reply to gravy:

Not convinced by the anti inflammatory advice if anything other than short term post injury. Jury definitely out on it in terms of inhibiting healing and masking pain

I had it, got better in about 6 months of no/very limited climbing. Inflammation of tendons is just one of those risks you will take if you climb into old age. I don't know your age but whatever it is it's a good time to learn the lesson of letting injuries heal. And then learn the lesson of doing proper warm up, mobilisation and pyramid before embarking on hard climbs.

I managed to tear mine and needed surgery. Wasn't cheap (the NHS waiting list was pretty long then) and had to have my arm strapped to my chest for a period of weeks. The rehab afterwards was lengthy and painful.

So yes, get some proper advice so yours doesn't deteriorate to that stage. Plenty of time to climb later.

I had a minor tear and it took 6 months to heal, 3 of which I couldn’t climb at all. If I were you I’d back off any particular training that aggravates it and continue to do stuff that it feels okay with. It’s really not worth tearing it. 

I recently had shoulder pain for a couple of months from climbing at the indoor wall. (It didn't bother me much while climbing but between times it was painful to put a coat on or raise my arm.)

I dd one week of 30-40 press-ups a day and it was gone.

The internetz call this antagonist training. Might be worth a try if you've tried everything else.

I had it in one shoulder, the best excercise I found was as follows...when out walking, lift arm up keeping it straight in front of you to full vertical height.  Then lower keeping it straight, and lift up to the side keeping it straight till vertical and lower. repeat, repeat repeat, what youll find is it pinches as it gets vertical above your shoulder, it worked for me took long time though.  I'm not a physio or anything but picked up tips from others. good luck

I read on the Internet that you can get a rotator cuff transplant. Maybe look into that? Or you could go and see someone who knows what they're talking about