UKC

Some context to start, my son is 8 years old and is an active competition climber, he climbs up to V5 on bouldering and 6C+ top rope, 6C for lead. He is 4ft 2" tall so as you can imagine we regularly encounter problems finding interesting and challenging problems/routes for him.

We have really struggled to find decent setting close to home and as such tend to travel all over the country in search of a decent session outside of competition.

Are there any centres out there (especially close to the West Midlands) that plan on adding sets for little people? or am I missing one? List below of the centres we love!

1) TCH Matchworks Liverpool - I really can't say enough good things about this place, they have a mint set that goes up to V5/6ish I think and then there are a lot of comp style boulders that little people can do. If any of the setters read this, you guys are awesome!!

2) The Mini Works - great place and the name says it all.

3) Redpoint Bristol - Only recently visited for the first time but we were very impressed with the setting and it caters really well for little ones both on ropes and bouldering.

 4) Flashpoint Bristol - Haven't been yet but have just found out they have a kids set and will be visiting very soon!

5) The Climbing Station - Their kids set is a bit easy for my boy but their general setting does seem to always have a short person beta, which is very cool.

There are lots of others we like but it is very much hit and miss in terms of the setting. We would love it if one of our local centres (we are based in Kidderminster) added some decent sets.

Any recommendations would be very much welcomed, it would be great to have a few more close to home

Hi Grant,

I was brought up in Stourport so very happy to see some local crushers coming through!

It's been a few years since I moved down to Cheltenham, so this may be out of date information, but Newport climbing wall near Telford (about an hour from kiddy) was always really nicely set and never seemed height-ist (I'm 5 foot 5, so sensitive to this!) so might be worth checking out: http://www.newportrock.co.uk/index.html

In classic UKC style, my 'not meeting your requirements at all' recommendation would be to check out the bouldering under Bewdley bypass bridge (if you have pads). It's only 10/15 minutes from Kiddy and is a decent spot, flat landings, good quality sandstone, up problems generally go at V2-V4 and the traverse is probably worth V7/ French 7b+/7c. Lots of little holds so the place refines technique rather than power, might be a good option for your lad. Think Nesscliffe style wall cranking but under a bridge. Send me an e-mail if you want further details/ beta etc.

Cheers, Tom

Brilliant thanks Tom, I didn't know about Newport Rock so we will definitely check it out. I know the spot you mean in Bewdley under the bridge (by the llamas/Alpacas) we have already had a play but haven't tried the traverse yet . We also love Nesscliffe and went there quite a lot last year when it was nice and sunny.

Very much appreciate the info!

Grant

Worth looking at Awesome Walls in Stoke.  It's bouldering only and often seems lots of kids there.  Would be worth giving them a call to check they fit what you want.

Great that you've been down there, even though it's a bit weird I really rate the climbing. Spent a fair amount of time working the trav when I lived locally. The best side to climb on is the west side of the bridge, the eastern side gets all the weather so the sandstone is all broken up. Easiest to park here and then it's a 5 minute walk down:
https://www.worcestershire.gov.uk/directory_record/3314/blackstone_riversid...

I've got a link to a short video, it's a bit crap and was filmed for a school competition for non-climbers so has the jazzy travelogue bits etc. and was filmed when it had recently flooded so was all a bit green on the lower courses! Generally stays dry except when flooded or a heavy shower will cause a puddle to form. Was there earlier this week and it was in decent nick. Give us a shout if you're ever headed down there, happy to meet up and show you some of the problems but you can just follow the chalked holds or make up endless eliminates too.

youtube.com/watch?v=uH7mgjPWnuc&

Nice little vid that! it was a bit wet when we went down so we only really had a little play. I will show the boy and see if we can get down there on a milder day to have a session its really not far for us at all.

I will let you know if we do would be good to get some guidance on the problems.

Thanks

Grant

Can definitely get a bit parky down there in the winter as it’s in the shade pretty much the whole time. Still possible but a bit brisk! Place comes into its own in spring and summer, especially as it’s shady and cooler down by the river so you can climb even when it’s too hot elsewhere. Do get in touch if you’re ever keen, I’ve got a stack of pads and my lad (6) doesn’t climb but does like sitting by the river eating a picnic so it’s all good. My number is 0 seven 7 one 4 seven 1 zero five 5 one if you want to message me directly. Take it easy! 

I hear the wyre forest climbing wall is quite good 😉