UKC

Sheffield Bouldering wall with most slabs/ vertical sections

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 spenser 07 Feb 2024

Which Sheffield wall has the most slabby/ vertical sections of wall? 

I'm planning to bring my partner along and she doesn't get on with overhangs, Ideally I'd like a good range of really easy stuff (I know that any of the walls will have loads I can go at as a typical punter so choice will be led by what's suitable for her).

In reply to spenser:

The works.

OP spenser 08 Feb 2024
In reply to pancakeandchips:

Ta, I thought that might be the case. Looks like a trip to the works then!

 msjhes2 08 Feb 2024
In reply to pancakeandchips:

The works have just built a fancy new over hang in the far corner on what was vertical walls and so have lost couple of vertical probs at each grade.   I suspect the depot edges it now.

8
In reply to msjhes2:

Now that GB Climbing have vacated Unit E we will be using it to extend some of the circuits from the main Works. There is a big slab and quite a lot of vert in Unit E.

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 PaulJepson 08 Feb 2024
In reply to msjhes2:

Don't know why you're getting down votes, I'm pretty sure you're right. The prow has taken out a section of vert wall, though I think the main vert wall on the other side is not any smaller.

I've only been once but I remember the depot having more of basically everything. 

I prefer the setting and location of The Works but I think the recommendations here may be more based on personal preference than in answer to the OP's actual enquiry.

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 GravitySucks 08 Feb 2024
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Unit Empty finally available for us punters? Don't forget that Sam has been promising a decent circuit board for about five years, I am holding my breath but have started to go blue....

 msjhes2 08 Feb 2024
In reply to PaulJepson:

It's UKC, down votes are mandatory.   I also prefer the works, but not sure how anyone can dispute that turning a vert wall into an overhang does not result in less vertical walls!   The new overhang does look very nice though.

I know the slabs and vert walls intimately as the overhanging yellows are all too hard...

 PercyBishton 08 Feb 2024
In reply to msjhes2:

Unit E at The Works now sports a black circuit of 20 problems around Font 5 to 6a for customers to try. Most of these are vertical or slabby. 

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 msjhes2 08 Feb 2024
In reply to PercyBishton:

Sounds great

In reply to PercyBishton:

I’ve been away from Sheffield and hence the Works for exactly a year now, and homesickness is really kicking in now. These threads don’t help 😂😍😂

1
 Dave Todd 08 Feb 2024
In reply to msjhes2:

> ...not sure how anyone can dispute that turning a vert wall into an overhang does not result in less vertical walls! 

Depends how you look at it.  If you just turn your head upside-down... a slab!

In reply to PaulJepson:

Not sure about this - caveat that I've not been to either in a while, but the Depot always seem to have a really high number of walls that are slightly overhanging - such that you may not notice if you're more into that sort of thing, but as a short, weak climber who hates overhang, I really do, and so it would def be a vote for Works for me too. Ofc it's possible that it's not just the angle of the wall but also that they always seem to have more setting that feels more technical rather than needing strength and length.

 Misha 08 Feb 2024
In reply to Queen of the Traverse:

You’re right, apart from the obvious slabs the Depot doesn’t have much wall space which is vertical or less. Most is at least slightly overhanging. This is better from a safety point of view (cleaner falls) and obviously makes it easier to set harder problems, but as you say it’s not everyone’s cup of tea. Edit - I suspect it’s the same in most modern walls. At any rate, Brum Depot is similar. MCR Depot has more vert just because it’s so much larger. 

Post edited at 23:37
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 morpcat 14 Feb 2024
In reply to Misha:

> Most is at least slightly overhanging ... I suspect it’s the same in most modern walls.  

I thought the opposite. At older walls the attitude was that bouldering was all about long pulls on overhanging crimps. Modern walls have more slabs, corners, barrels, aretes, and are shifting focus to more interesting movement over power and crimp strength. I guess our perspective really depends on our individual small samples of various walls.


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