UKC

I chucked up a woody in the shed, three sheets of ply stacked lengthwise. First one is vertical, second maybe about 40 degrees and the third goes along the roof at about 75. 

I'm pretty much back at beginner standards right now (strength wise) as not been climbing much recently. I find myself farting about on the woody with little to no direction and getting bored/frustrated after 15 mins and then jacking it in.

The roof board is only really good for huge jugs and can only use half of it for fear of pinging off and hitting all the sharp and pointy stuff on the opposing wall. 

The bottom two boards are fun to move around on but you can't really set 'routes' on them so I'm going to have to setup specific holds for training specific strengths or do laps around the board for time or... I dunno. Looking for some ideas to make it more interesting/challenging or it will just gather dust/get ripped down.

Any suggestions or links to good material welcome. 

I love having my own board. Posting some photos of your set up would make it easier to make suggestions.

Good idea - Not got any handy, will take a few at lunch 

Here's a cpl of pics that should give you an idea:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HhaiXXpsZSmWj7Kq5

Cheers.

I think it would work a lot better for you if you kept the vertical section about 30 cm high only as a kickboard, don;t bother with the roof and have a 40 degree panel.  Like the left panel of my garage wall (see photo below). You can then get more out of it with sit starts. With your current setup you have to use tiny holds to get difficulty and then the roof (as you mentioned is scary as you could swing a lot more.

You'll also need matting either side of where you have it now, obviously

Good ways to get variety is to set some specific problems, also put loads of random holds on and make up problems (a 'spray' wall setup) and change rules e.g. screw ons only for feet, or only using for your feet the same holds you use for your hands. Tiny screw on foot holds mean that you end up working surprisingly hard on relatively good handholds

I hope this helps

Thanks for the tips, I did it like that due to the space constraints - it's not a dedicated boulder cave unfortunately but I would probably have done it as you describe with hindsight. However, I'll have to live with it as it is for a now and try and get the most from it, I may be tempted into a revision in the not so distant future. 

Don't know if you're will to spend some more money on it, but the footholds look too good/positive, particularly given you have a large vertical area.  

Something like these would give you more options for harder problems/circuits:

https://coreclimbing.co.uk/buy-holds/shop-by-type/footholds/geo-screw-on-fe...

My brother created a very small board in his celllar at around 20 degrees with a small kickboard, I managed to make decent use of it with some properly slopey small footholds.

If you did go down that route I'd suggest a couple of sets of different colours distributed around the vertical section so that you can make problems with limited poor footholds that make you pull harder.