UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Good work this week everyone.  Despite many down with illness it looks like lots has still got done.  Hopefully those that love a long drive north are getting ready to put the WIN back into winter and those that love the grit are preparing to put the RAD back into trad!

Ross Barker – Keen for a crag B session, won’t be over that way until the new year now though.  I’m loving the sound of a Cypher style leg kick, surely reason enough to pursue the same beta no matter how terrible it might be!

Steve Claw – a couple of nice indoor sessions there (if that’s a thing!?).  I know its not your go to discipline but maybe embracing the bouldering will be a more fun way of gaining the strength for your sport and trad goals.

Liam P – always impressed by recovery club motivation.  Only 3 weeks left now.  When training for our first continental ice trip we found an old Twight conditioning regime that was twice a week of: 10 ice axe pull ups, 10 press ups, 1min skipping, repeatx3 to make 1 set then do 3 sets with 10mins rest between them.  I’ve no idea how much difference it made but we manged WI4 ish on that first trip.

Alan Little – hope the holiday plans are going well, looking forward to your trip reports.  Maybe reward yourself with some styles you are best at for some nice feel good holiday ticks, its not training time now!

Derek Furze – a busy week given that you are still building back up after illness.  Keen to see what a full strength week brings.  Do you have any grit routes (Rivelin or otherwise) that slipped through the net, back in the day, that you are keen for?

Si dH – a good week training wise there.  Particularly if you are another one feeling the bite of autumn germs.

AJM – yeah, I totally misunderstood what you meant last week.  When you said ‘winter’ I though you meant WINTER and actually you meant winter.  Glad we got that sorted now!  Any further thoughts on what Winter should involve?

Tom Green – great work on Chelly Express, is it less loose now with a bit more millage or still a bit chossy in the middle? Did you see the mixed ticks are start to come in on the ukc conditions page?  Lots to get excited about.

Tyler – I think 1hr 15mins on a treadmill should be considered an achievement even if you planned longer.  There are enough of us mentioning colds this week that we almost need a separate break out room for snot club.

Ally Smith – Some very impressive ticks from you SPL time.  I don’t know what conditions are like on Greenheart Service, is it something that you can go back to again soon or will it wet out for the winter?

The sheep – impressive consistency with the swimming as always.  Worth dropping a swim session or two in the week to support the running?

Biscuit – being ill sucks doesn’t it.  I never know whether to try and do a little bit of light training as a maintenance load or to rest and let my body recover faster.  Looks like you managed to get some training done though, well done.

Mattrm – great motivation with the running, two birds with one stone there.  Any thoughts on whether a lunchbreak short session of something could work for you?

Thanks SSB. My pessimism is slightly alleviating as I am feeling on the mend and got a half decent session in yesterday. 

Nothing much to note in the week. Lots of work blah, very tired blah, feel ill when I try hard blah! 

I did quite a bit of stretching and TLC stuff. One easy gym visit. Had a session on the Winter league problems at Boulder UK. Reached a new high point when my partner did a problem I couldn’t do. I managed to smile and congratulate her and try it another 20 times without success. She repeated it to show me how it was done and that just made things worse. I am being tongue in cheek of course - she’s climbing very well atm. 

Away for a family do this weekend. I am certainly keeping up with my new calorie targets. But not sure champagne and cake is what Useful coach would recommend to reach your target.

Had a session at Oakwood yesterday. Did quite a few of the red V4-6 circuit. Tried a couple I couldn’t do and worked quite hard. Deffo not 100% still but feeling much more like my old self.

Ive managed to get a sore A4 and now A2 on my left ring finger. But puzzled as I can’t figure how. A4 is a concern. The A2 just feels like a standard niggle. 

This week will be flat out with work again. So eat well, rest well, rehab the finger and climb when I can.l, which should be Wednesday and then at least once at the weekend. 

Yes, the lunchtime session does seem like a good idea.  Even tho I'm working from home still (and that won't change) I still often end up working through my lunchbreaks.  I do go for a walk with a friend once a week on a lunchbreak.  But it's never that far, just a mile or two around the local meadows.

As for this week, a bit fat nowt.

My mate couldn't do the usual day and I didn't have any energy at the tail end of the week, so nothing happened.  Some family walks along the canal but that was about it. 

cheers SSB!

Bit of a rough week chez AJM. MrsAJM has been unwell most of the week and I’ve been sub par (not terrible but definitely sub 100%) the second half of the week. I’ve soldiered on as best I can but it would be good to shrug this one off!

I’ve not done much further thinking really about winter, although a little thinking about goals to aim towards next spring/rest of year. A few longer route style boulders and some sort of density challenge (X V-points in a day style) as it gets towards route season, and just getting back out on ropes again really.

Monday - nothing. Got to the evening and I was just wiped out

Tuesday - meant to be climbing, but a bad nights sleep from the whole family rather put paid to that. Took the morning off anyway, pottered round doing some admin. Pinch block session to 18kg plus block&pin, then tried 2-on-1-off on new foothold combo. Still pretty cumulatively pumpy, but certainly better. Tore a flapper at the end though Then an afternoon at work, followed by stretching, compression plus a few squats in the evening whilst listening to Bosi muse about Mutation.

Wednesday - busy day then definitely not feeling tip top in the evening. Managed some planche leans and stretching before bed still, soldiered on!

Thursday - feeling a bit worse. No soldiering on, rested, early to bed

Friday - see Thursday 

Saturday - having cancelled our weekend plans on account of MrsAJMs (well, all our, but she has been worst afflicted) lurgy, I took miniAJM to the wall. Chilled session just doing some moderate stuff from the new set, mostly flashes. A bunch of stuff from panels I typically visit less, which is good for variety. Brief investigation of a few harder problems for next time.

Sunday - back with miniAJM for some more at the wall. Would have been a lovely day to be outside. 

Evening all, and cheers for the stats SSB! A good week for me, not much tickage but lots of 'ard pullin' going on!

No worries, hopefully me and some others can have a session or two to get it clean for your arrival

Utter psycho! Just proper beta for me, thanks!

Last Week:

M - Productive gym session. 6x10s on the BM2K bottom outer edges, then half hour on the Moonboard. Repeated a couple of bits up to 7A and managed what I was trying last week - "Wide Clyde", 7A/+ (ish, morpho?). Tried to campus 1-6 and can get the distance now, but not the contact strength. Contrast baths and box split progression.

T - 2 mile walk.

W - 2 mile walk. Right middle and ring fingers feel a bit stiff. Contrast baths and box split progression.

T - Fingers still feeling a bit weird, mostly the middle DIP joint. Think it's the small BM2K edges causing the joint to hyperextend and build pressure. Thinking I should perhaps reduce intensity until my fingers are happy with the new stimulus - one hand medium edge, one hand small edge? 2 mile walk at lunch.

Decided the conditions were too good to waste and tentatively decided to have another go at Rigpa (V9). Ended up having the best session yet, about as close as you can get to doing it without actually doing it! Before I had only managed "the move" four times - this session I managed it five times back-to-back, and managed to tickle my fingers over the lip twice. Need another pad, because my beta is a bit dynamic and if I come off the top in a bit of a spin I'll have a bad time. Really psyched!

F - DIPs feel fine today - in hindsight possibly just went a bit too hard on Monday.

S - Rest.

S - RHS/Cratcliffe. Started by squaring away some unfinished business on The Cave Problem (f7A), tried to pull on Big Al Qaeda (f7B) but it's disgustingly hard. Taking it off the goal list, not going to try again for a while! Had a play on Dry Wit in a Wet Country (f7A) but a bit too antistyle (and sweaty fingertips?!), and on the adjacent Grizzly Arête (f7A+), which was a bit too coarse, so opted to save myself for the main goal...

T Crack (f7B). Warmed back up, refined the sequence, practiced the moves, got it in two halves, and fluffed the topout on the RP go. No capacity to get there again! Ah well, I know it should go quickly next time.

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Rest.

W - Rigpa.

T - Rest.

F - Rest.

S, S - Grit? Maybe finish off T-Crack?

Goals:

Rigpa. (So close!)

Suavito.

T-Crack. (Even closer!!!)

Thanks SSB.

A few more indoor sessions this week as next boulder comp is in 10 days. Not seeing immediate changes, but hopefully will in time.  Did get a win outdoors this week with my first E6, Trad is Rad!

M - Rest

T- 2 hr Boulder session. 6 x 10s hangs +15kg, still only getting to 7s ish.  Boulders V6 range with varied success.  1 Hour rest then rope session with friends, but too tired to do anything hard.

W- Rest

T - Outdoors at Split Rock Quarry.  Messed about on Red Rag to a Bull (E5 6b) as friend wanted to do it.  Warmed up then got it as a top rope and was going to lead it, but looked over and fancied trying something else.  Decided on Crimson Dynamo (E6 6b), did crux after clip-sticking the bolt, found that ok, so pulled ropes and went for it from the ground, top was surprisingly hard (and onsight by this point). Very pleased with myself, and also glad I had the balls to go for something harder than would usually trad lead.

F - Rest

S - 2hr Boulder session. 6 x 10s hangs +15kg still only getting to 7s ish.  Boulders in V6 range.

Thanks SSB.  

M: morning session at the Hangar. Pretty good, I did a few whites and worked on a few more.

T: working day but did a quick lunchtime fingerboard session. Did 3*30 second density hangs then one set of 3/6/9 hangs with bodyweight+20kg and three sets with bodyweight +27kg. Ran out of time for a fifth set. 27 kg felt hard but doable.

W: morning - 5*5 one arm scap pull-ups on the pull-up bar.

T: went out to do some finger boarding in the morning but both my shoulder and two of my fingers (not the usual one) felt a bit creaky when warming up, so I decided to stop. Looking back, I realised I have been training fairly consistently since the middle of September a week or two before son No. 2 was born (so about 6-7 weeks without a rest), and even then it was an enforced pause due to workload and family stress rather than a proper rest. And of course my sleep has been pretty poor. Bit of a schoolboy error, time for a few days off upper body training I think!

F: morning - crimpd app hip / leg flexibility 'C' routine.

S: rest

S: morning session at the Hangar. Pretty good, I did a couple of whites and one yellow, plus worked on a couple more whites.

Planning to rest from fingerboard and shoulder training until mid week.

Si

In common with a few this week I’ve been malingering. 
M: Nothing

T: Stockport Wall - felt pretty ok but totally lacked any ability to pull once on the wall. Had to dog routes I’d previously thought on sighted. Could not lock off, could not hang on long enough to get pumped and my new £50 climbing boots from TK Max are definitely several sizes too large.

W & T: Malingering 

F: Went the treadmill not sure what to do, did a very slow 13km which is probably the sort of thing I should be doing. Unfortunately, as I feared, my hip started playing up after an hour. 
S: Woke up a sore but went on the treadmill again anyway, hips started playing up in less than an hour so increased the incline and walked for about 20 minutes, the once the hour ticked over then ran for 3km. 
S: Surprisingly legs not too sore. Depot, did better than Wednesday, managed quite a few reds but the place is so big now I’ve probably about 10 more to do. 
Not sure if I’m over my non-illness hit had flu jab yesterday so at least I’m safe from that. 

That’s got what I think is the best Malham training feature anywhere. A gently over hanging woody about 20’ high with an auto belay, never seen one anywhere else. 

Good effort. Do you have the worlds longest stick clip or is the description on here incorrect (says bolt at 7m)?

Yeah it's a DTB one too. I did see it but didn't get on it. Their boards are MASSIVE as well.

Oddly though i saw no one on any of them the whole time i was there. I thought the setting in the lower grades was pants, but quite good once you got into V4 and above. However it was all jugs and volumes. But if i was local i'd be all over those boards they looked amazing.

DTB did an auto belay at Kendal that I was very excited about. But it turned out to be a slab with weird see through rubber holds that have no grip to them but light up. Bit of an opportunity missed there i feel.

Which hip is giving you grief? The other one or the one you've had done? I can put you in touch with a really good hip specialist physio if you'd like? He's down South but works remotely very well.

Combined tactics.

Wasn't easy to clip, was hanging off a pocket 3m up with my friend holding me in place from the floor.

Cheers SSB. Ooff 180 Ice Axe Pulls a week sounds intense! I’ve only got a BM1000 to pull up on so will have a play hooking axes over the jugs. If that doesn’t work I’ll have to invest in those training handles with the straps.

Big tick in RecoveryClub this week. Managed a bent-arm planche! Quite messy, and a hinge at the hips, but finally getting my feet off the floor after 8 weeks of Planche Leans and Pseudo Planche Push-ups.

RecoveryClub Goals

• Recover
• 3x3 5sFrenchies (tick)
• 20s 20mm +12kg (getting close)
• Bent Arm Planche (Bent Arm Straddle)
• Full 20x Core Circuit (tick)
• Front Lever (on half straddles)
• Weight <175lb (nipped over this week)

Mon

• 5x 20/20/20/10/10s MaxHang 20mm (+12kg)
• One arm Scap Pulls 3x 8 (+3kg)
• 4x Offset 5s Frenchies (13”offset)
• 4x One arm eccentrics
• 6x 20 Single leg calf raises

Tue

• 3x 4s Bent-arm Straddle Planche
• 5x 4s Planche Leans (34” foot-hand)
• 3x 2 PPPU 5s hold at Top & Bottom
• 3x 10s L sit
• 3x 25 Dips (12kg)
• 6x 25 Single Leg Calf Raise

Wed

• 5x 20/20/20/20/10s MaxHang 20mm (+12kg)
• 4x 9/9/8/4s half straddle Front Lever
• 4x 15/15/8/8s one legged Front Lever
• 6x 30 Single leg calf raises

Sat

• One arm Scap Pulls 3x 8 (+5kg)
• 4x Offset 5s Frenchies (18”offset)
• 4x One arm eccentrics
• 6x 35 Single leg calf raises
• Repeaters: 3/7 BM 5b circuit & 5/5 BM 5c circuit

Weight: 176lbs

More of the same this week. I’m going to try and up MaxHang Volume to 3 sessions and see how I get on. 

Thanks SSB. Had a delightful family holiday week on Kalymnos, and my big climbing success was indeed totally anti-anti-style. Ten metres of pleasant 6a/b to warm up, ten metres of intricate 7a just-off-vertical tic-tac on small holds, another twenty metres of pleasant 6a/b bimbling to the anchor. 

STG: Enjoy family holiday on Kalymnos. Hopefully get *some* climbing done: yes, perfect.
MTG: Next two weeks: Leonidio. 2 x F7's redpoint and/or 6c+ onsight
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: Kalymnos: Sea Breeze. Easy routes with my son - his second day outdoors on a rope in about a decade - rounded off with the decidedly non-easy Kill the Cock (6b)
T: Telendos: Miltiadis. More pleasant easy bimbling, then the classic of the crag: Creation 2010 (7a). Should have known a just-off-vertical route described in the guidebook as "very technical" wasn't going to be a good candidate for my first 7a onsight, but after going to bolt to work out the moves - non-obvious sequence but ok when figured out - second go success was a very encoraging start to the trip.
W: Kalymnos rest day. Vathys kayaking - and the DWS cult may have found another adherent. My son claimed his swimming lesson on Socratic Swimming Lessons - Part 1 (6a+)was due to hold breakage rather than inability to do the climbing. 

T: Kalymnos: Palionisos Bay. Bit of a miscalculation here: very mild weather so far lulled us into going to a south facing crag, nicely sheltered from north & west winds, on what turned out to be the hottest day of the week. It was like climbing in an oven. Nevertheless got some good routes done, My son cruised his target of the day, Henkelparade (5c). I got a musical note tick on Iltis (6b), but that was definitely the limit of my extreme temperature climbing ability. Pleasant little crag though, would go there again - on a cooler day. Lunch at the waterfront taverna, then adjourned to Arginonta Valley for a couple more pitches in the shade. Pretty humid & greasy there though despite the shade.

F: Kalymnos:  Prophitis Andreas. This crag is potentially excellent but needs to be turned round to face the other way. As currently arranged it is totally sheltered from the prevailing northerly wind, and another total oven when the clouds forecast for today failed to materialise. We fled to Afternoon after a couple of routes - more strenuous hike but otherwise a much nicer option than Arginonta Valley for afternoons desperately in need of shade. Locals are saying it's unsually hot for November.

S: Travel Kalymnos-Athens. Afternoon walk round the Acropolis, rounding off my son's Greek Experience half term week.
S: Travel/Rest Day 2 Athens: Fulfilled a lifetime dream with a visit to the Mycenaean collection at the Archaeology Museum. Followed however by a far more strenuous than expected drive to, and late evening arrrival in, Leonidio. Not expecting to start things off with a bang tomorrow.

A great family holiday, with as much moderate route mileage on rock in a week as I normally do in a month - should be good for base fitness & movement. Plus a very encouraging big success on the one hard route I seriously tried. Now let's see how it goes with the boys in Leonidio

It’s my old hip which I know needs doing at some point, I’m just get as much use out of it before then. Unfortunately any attempt at physio is doomed due to my utter laziness. 

Incidentally I was pretty chuffed to do a full-on comp style red while warming up this morning, it was one of those ones where you have to pop to a big hold off to the side, grab it with one hand after the other while cutting both feet and then stab in your foot up on a hold further off to the side dynamically before you fall off. Pretty cool. I also managed a slightly compy style off-vertical white with a very high right foot move that I saw a few others struggling on. Maybe the flexibility training is doing something and it's nice to be able to do some of the more 'modern' style problems

Great trip Alan. Keep it going for Leonidio.

Ha ha! Fair enough. 

7m is not particularly high for clip-sticking.

My homemade "biggus stickus" is >5m, but is nothing compared to Stone's epic fishing pole contraption which is capable of clipping all the bolts on routes at the cheedale cornice!

I'll be in Shropshire at Christmas for 4or 5 days and will be keen as mustard; I have even stashed pads at the in-laws in anticipation of such adventures!

Love the psyche!!

No return to the cave this week and unlikely to get there for another couple of weeks either. Worked some resistance on the key grip type via the FB on Sunday.

Week 44

M – Nothing, started feeling a bit grotty again as lurgy mk2 strikes Smith household.

T – More grot Nothing but some stretching/groin COMPEX.

W – Starting to feel better.

T – Board warm-up; dozen 6B+ to 7A. Feeling a little wheezy but strong. Proceeded with the planned Lattice edge benchmarking.

Couple of gentle intro hangs at 25 and 40kg.

55kg AKA 1x metric Moose: Steady away.

60kg tick.

65kg tick (Required a bit of effort, but no surprise given it was a PB by 2kg).

70kg tick – trying now

72kg tick

74kg; nearly! 6 and a bit seconds (test is 7s duration)

More than happy with that; PB by 9kg, didn’t feel tweaky and despite massive loads shoulders were fine and core/back didn’t complain in the slightest.

Also managed BW+3kg 7s hang on my 4mm custom edges, another PB.

F – Rest.

S – Equipped, cleaned, shunted and led new 6c/+. Nice mix of balance and thug sequences. Got bolts in another line too (>f7) and scoped potential for more.

S – F3 drag repeaters; @BW+11kg x4. 8mm micro repeaters @BW x4. 3x30s 1-arm “density hangs” for shoulder rehab @BW-15kg.

Hi all. Thanks for the stats SSB.

A mixed week. Only did 50% of planned sessions.

Week 44:

M: Rest.

T: Dry tooling. Pretty mediocre session at Masson. Last session I nearly got ...B4UGOGO (Coz I'm not planning on tooling solo) (D7+) -falling off the last couple of moves on the flash attempt at the end of the session. Because of this I arrogantly assumed it would go easily with fresh arms, so jumped on it as my 'warm up'. Four goes later I was still failing at the top! Slightly frustrating session, but good mileage and a good humbling!

W: Rest. Skipped planned session as knackered from tooling.

T: Trail run. 13.6km, 452m vert, 7:02/km. 

F: Rest. Too busy/disorganised to fit anything in.

S: Core sesh. Felt hard -first conditioning work I've done for months!

S: Rest -planned to go for a run but was a bit hungover! 

Week 45:

155 mins running.

2 x climbing

2 x core and strength

3 x prehab

STGs (end 2021):

Heavens Above (TICK!)

Chelly Express (TICK!)

White wall (M8) 

Run all segments of the Cleveland Way (2/9)

MTGs (end March 22):

Lots of Scottish mixed at VI and VII

Something long, hard and suffery in the Alps.

Illness has been the main feature at Chateau Swede this week.

Mon. busy with work.

Tues - short Burbage north session on Fallen Slab Arete Eliminate 7B.  This is the most sandbag 7B in the Peak! I think that first move is harder than either of the hard moves on The Terrace and THAT move on Submergence.  Before everyone made their log books private I noticed that its only ticked by people that climb at least 7C or harder very regularly.   I made progress on the 2 previous session I had on this last year in the sense that I touched the second hold but not in any way that looked like I might stick it.  I've got it dialled from there to the end so hopefully if I ever manage that move I'll be in with a chance of doing the problem.  Felt better when some younger/stronger/better/keener types showed up and never left the floor on it.

Wed-fri - lurgy.  That annoying level of lurgy where you just about manage to go to work and exist but that's all.

Sat. 30mins at Broomgrove Road (where i did Warm Up Wall Eliminate Low (7b+)) before Mrs. Swede rang saying that small swede was particularly poorly and I had to leave.  Right decision though, he was actually really poorly and ended up spending the night in hospital (weird reaction to the virus (not that one) we've all had, couldn't breath, bit scary for a while).

Sun. Poorly child home from hospital, Mrs. Swede not looking great now either.  Took mini swede out for a run around as she was looking better from being ill last week.

Generally a frustrating week considering conditions looked amazing, particularly Thursday and Sunday.  On the plus side I'm marginally less snotty today so hopefully normal service can resume later this week.

Is that bodyweight +74 kg hanging from the edge, or a one-armed pick-up of 74kg? Either way pretty monstrous, good effort. Not far off 200% bw? I always thought you said you didn't like the lattice edge :S

Bodyweight (~77kg) plus 72kg for the full 7s hang.

200% bodyweight has got to be a goal now?

Not sure I said I didn't like, just that I found it hard to hold and that I was forced into a chisel grip to get my pinkies in on the action.

Cheers, happily swimming doesn't seem to inhibit the ability to run so no need to drop sessions. I usually swim in my lunch break and as im quite close to Leicester city centre the inclination to swap out a swim for a run (especially when i prefer trail runs) is just not there. However i do need to run more in the evenings especially as my daughter will be swim training for longer so no excuses!

Week went as follows;

Monday, 1km lunchtime swim

Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim and intervals in the evening

Wednesday, 2km lunchtime swim

Thursday, work took over so no swim and stretch 

Friday, 1km lunchtime swim

Saturday, Brother and law and family came visit and say over, lots of food beer and wine 

Sunday, nice hilly 10k trail run to blow away the cobwebs

Really busy with work this week just gone and likely to be the same this week.  Definitely recovered, but trying to train after loads of work is similar to trying to train after feeling ill!

Started some stretching and quite enjoying  the process, so warmed up with that Monday then did 60 pull ups.

Tues did a run - 5.5km at 6.30 pace and 7:3 repeaters four sets in my next short break.

Wed work - had to cancel climbing

Thurs max hangs, but only four sets at BW plus 13.6 kg

Friday 80 pull ups before work stopped and weekend started.  Been away on a trip to Nottingham, so lots of food, wine and clubbing energetically

Now back on with work

Sorry, just realised I didn't answer this... it's got one football sized block that's wobbly, but still keyed in at the moment. Apparently, the absence of another block above makes it harder, but I definitely don't think it's M8 as people have suggested since the middle section changed a little. Probably still good for M7 (no plus or slash needed!) if you can torque.

Yes that was the sort of thing I meant. It's the same for me, I don't get anything out of my pinkie when half crimping on it.

SSB - sorry to ignore your question in the haste to get some kind of report in!  Of course, I still have a fair number of grit routes to get done, even at Rivelin!  My challenge is that I've done a fair bit up to E4 in the past, but now have a long, hard grind to get back to anything like that standard, especially on grit.  At somewhere like Stanage, I can usually enjoy a day - repeating things {'ve done before and finding the odd thing that I've missed, but some of the lesser venues really have very little.  I might think about working some routes on a shunt with a view to bridging the gap, otherwise they might pass me by forever!

Wow!  That is serious weight for max hangs!  Very inspiring and might try stepping up beyond my previous levels (plus 28kg last winter).  4mm edges are also seriously impressive, though I had understood that the training value of smaller edges was in question, in that it tends to be pain resistance rather than strength at those dimensions?  Some sources suggest that gains are minimal below 20mm, so I'd be interested in your (any anyone else's) perspective on this.

Small edge training is a deliberate ploy for skin and pulp conditioning for a couple of winter projects i have i mind

...and I did do small edge training back in the day.  Certainly had a psychological effect!  

Ally is that you on the Lattice Website competing with Yves Gravelle? Crazy numbers!

Yes, that's me. Not impressive IMHO, I just think that pinch block favours the big handed

Pinch block is morpho, only 6B for the tall.

(or something to that effect!)