UKC

Placeholder.  Mostly done, but BH interfering, so will post up tomorrow morning.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks in advance Derek. I've got to work tomorrow so I'm going to get in early.

M - A.M. Gym - hips and legs with some pulling and shoulders 

P.M. LancasterWall 30 minutes continuous climbing

T -Supposed to be a structured training session but I ended up at PrestonWall to do the Summer Boulder league. Did all the problems up to 22 apart from 20 (a sideways paddle dyno). 22 was super crimpy and pretty tough. I surprised myself by getting it and I think that's the first time I've felt the effect of losing weight. I suppose it's not going to be too noticeable on moderate trad but at your limit is where it will make a difference. 

W - BUK - did 10 min continuous foot on campus with feet on a stool. I may have looked like a wally but it felt spot on for sport onsighting.  Supposed to do some S&C but didn't. Too busy and mow motivation by the evening

T - Supposed to go to the gym but didn't

F - Falling practice in Langdale. Still worth doing. It's a very interesting process. Lots more to do yet. I feel like I am now accepting of falling on nuts but it's the falling itself that is spooking me. A bit like sport falls. You know they should be safe, but they're still scary.

S -  Troy Quarry - we were supposed to risk an overnight trip to Northumberland but the weather didn't look worth the drive. Troy was dry(ish). Damp in some cracks and on some faces. Seconded Pillar Cracks (VS 4c) which I thought had a proper 'move' on it. It took me some time. Then I led Sounder Direct (E2 5c). Great route. Lovely lower crack (proper lancs quarry style) and then a bomber nut before running it out to the top. More than 1 5c move I thought for the top but the first one (or two) were by the bomber gear. Then it started raining. We waited it out, it didn't stop, we went to my mum's for a brew, the sun came out.......

S - Sorted out the matting for the garage wall and recovered my lost gear from last week. 

I felt really tired towards the end of the week - again. I'm going to make a bit effort to sort my sleep out and add some carbs in around activity now. I don't need to lose anymore weight.

I'm going to repeat this week and then start to step it up. We've got Fri to Mon away in the Duddon on a CC meet so fingers crossed for a good weather trad fest,

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks for the stats!

Quick one for me this week:

Tuesday - 1m run

It was a great week for UKC illness club and UKC DIY club, but terrible for fitclub.  On the upside, I'm over the cold now I hope.  Also all the chases from our recent re-wiring are now plastered nicely and I've re-hung a door, so that you can actually get at the light switch now.  Most of the furniture is back and the house is getting cleaner again.  Need to get back on the running next week, otherwise things are going to end badly for me.

In reply to mattrm:

'Thanks for the stats'!  Pressure now on to get them in early tomorrow!

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek.

I felt wiped out all week. Children disrupted sleep and maybe caught the edge of something but basically ran out of juice early evening with no energy left to train. Walked to work X3 but otherwise nothing.

We were at the in-laws this weekend with a day pass for Saturday. Had originally hoped to go up to the peak but the forecast looked better the further south I looked so we pointed the car south and went to Symonds Yat, first time in about a decade. Enjoyed a nice day in the sunshine.

Highlight of the day was definitely Red Rose Speedway (HVS 5a) which is a standout of the crag and a good route. There's not that much depth of quality at the yat but there are a few gems. I realised with some surprise that this is probably the hardest trad I've climbed since before my daughter was born, at the end of 2019. I got some quality sewing machine leg from not being used to standing on my feet that long (always happens first trad outing of the year), took ages placing gear, but still got up it.

There were a few grumblings from my shoulder but nothing acute so I was caught out a bit when at the end of the day and most of yesterday my shoulder felt really weak and sore. I was in two minds yesterday, either:

- this was a promising start to the trad season, blowing out early season cobwebs, that triggered a bunch of muscular shoulder soreness due to the pattern of load - longer times whilst faffing with gear etc etc - being very different from anything in my training. 

Or:

- I had just had my one day trad season and undone any gains through rehab in a single day

It's feeling less sore today, but I guess I'll have to wait and see. Had been hoping for a day out next weekend too but current forecast looks wet.

In reply to Derek Furze:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread;

UKC Forums - UKC Fit Club Week 840 (ukclimbing.com)

Another really interesting week with Tom going mad pursuing goals all over Britain and Biscuit contriving to lose gear on successive routes (now reunited with the owner).  Sorry for tardiness with posting – just a busy weekend.

Stats:

Biscuit:  Clearly embarrassed you into an urgent post, as you are first out of the blocks this week, and with a very entertaining report as well.  Yes, I was quite inspired by the Grochan – plenty to do really and some enticing lines.  Given that I can be parked up in the Pass in 2.15 from home (about the same for Langdale), it is actually a reachable destination for me for day trips with long days ahead.

The gear loss episodes were then entertaining.  MGC doesn’t strike me as an early season route as it is cruxy and needs a forceful approach.  Early season needs stuff where you can plot your way through the difficulties, preferably while being stood in balance next to a bomber nut!  As for Wild Sheep!  Anyway, hope you got your gear back and hope this episode hasn’t led to a massive sell off of trad gear!  Good to get the positives out of the experience anyway. 

Thoughtful approach evident with the training – I can see that you are keeping stuff going, but perhaps at a lower intensity as you step up the outdoor climbing.  A good balance I think.

SSB:  Some great results bouldering again with the Roche Abbey tick and the session at Earth Quarry (never heard of it).  Good to find a new destination where there is plenty to go at.  I did look at the crag on UKC and it looks well, …small, but I guess that is what you are looking for!   How do you find out about these esoteric wonders as I have never heard of most of them?

Riding home from work is quite a challenge after a hard day of graft and takes a bit of dedication to cardio I reckon.  The more gentle kids ride on the Sunday is more my kind of thing.  Good to see that you included some basic pulling and pushing as a distraction along the way! 

Interesting observations on the rest day thing and the value of giving your body some down time.  It is a challenge as the season kicks in to maintain strength in particular – certainly if mainly doing trad – while also keeping reasonably fresh for the climbing itself.  Having had an accidental deload week, I am thinking of reconfiguring my training into two composite sessions that aim to maintain some basics and I think intend to include a sort of training element into some of my days out – deliberately going on things that are too hard kind of thing.

Randy:  Sounds like a good plan and hopefully you are getting a bit luckier with the weather now and have managed to get back to your project? 

A good and fairly intense week with an interesting reflection on the indoor roped routes at the Munich Subdivision annual bash.  Your numbers certainly indicate a really solid platform of strength and the bouldering intensity must be delivering power, but the endurance end of things is more difficult to train without getting mileage in, either indoors of outdoors.  Of course, doing lots of sets of repeaters does have an endurance impact, but it is pretty boring to sustain!

Your lock off at 170 degrees is also excellent and the weighted pull ups continue to show good numbers, though are beginning to look achievable (for me) if I keep them on the schedule all year!  Switching things is always a good idea to provide a different stimulus anyway.

Ian Parnell:  I suppose the concern for your targets is reasonable, particularly when you off to somewhere remote.  Pabbay isn’t a good place to break something!  From my perspective, you have jumped on stuff with gusto, which is impressive.  However, the percentages aren’t yet looking strong, in that you’ve fallen off a fair bit so far.  Perhaps drop back a grade to assess how things feel when you rack up a few without the airtime?  I guess it is different for different people, but getting smooth and efficient comes through repetition, rather than fighting through something with a few falls.

Nothing wrong with ambitious targets, but you need to put some miles in to get there – shout when you need a training evening somewhere.

That said, you are right to reflect on a really decent week – a load of running and plenty of focused training both indoors and out.  Smashing the indoor target was also impressive and a pretty good endurance session to get up so many at 6c.  Anston Stones sounds pleasant and another one I am not familiar with, so the thread is an endless list of surprises for me!

Mattrm:  An interesting week with plenty of mileage in it really, so your distances are building up pretty well.  The recce run sounds like a good investment, though perhaps also a bit of an eye-opener?  It seems to be leaving you with a few dilemmas in terms of planning your next steps – whether to undertake recce runs with the slight issue that it might deliver more ‘depressingly slow’ or whether to put time into distance and pace training in more accessible territory.  Come the event, the recce will be really useful, but I’d reflect that it would be even more useful if you can approach it at the planned race pace (?).

45 minutes from a wall sounds perfect to me! (it can take that long to get down into Stockport on a bad day anyway)!  In terms of getting climbing done, the key thing is always access to motivated partners – preferably loads of them.  Without people to go with, it is really hard to find the time – certainly, when I have had periods away from it (and I have had many), it has always been prompted by a lack of people to actually climb with easily.  Now I am in a loose network of mainly retired peeps who are always available for something.  I also have regular trips out with my old climbing partners from the 1980s plus a few FC connections developing as well.

Alan:  I should also have mentioned that I found the benchmarks frustrating.  Some of them asked questions about standards that were impossible to answer (what is the hardest thing you’ve done in less than eight attempts (Answer; nearly everything) and one wouldn’t give a result until I put in a guessed bouldering grade.  I found your reflections on the benchmarks interesting and agree that I haven’t felt finger limited for a long while.  Good that you have identified a clear weakness and one where closing the gap whould be approachable with care.

Anyway, a sensibly cautious start to pull ups.  Plenty of rest needed.  I got a lot from the ‘greasing the groove’ approach early on – just doing two or three every time I passed by the board.  I would sometimes find that I had done 100 through the day without ever finding it tiring or hard using this approach.

The Munich Division FC meet looked entertaining and seemed to push you all into falling off a lot! 

Steve Claw:  I loved your definition of ‘taking it easy’ after the holiday – straight onto bolting up a new 6c, then three more outdoor sessions (okey; not too intense), before winding down with your press ups and min dips routine at the end of the week.

I think your plan of antagonists exercise for the fingers and forearms is a good one.  I’ve had a lot of issue with cramping affecting my fingers recently and wondered the same thing – a lack of antagonists going on in this area.  I also thought about some power-finger bands, but haven’t got around to it yet.

Glad that Font didn’t give your elbows too much problem.  Hopefully, the rate exercise will have helped with repair as well.  It sounds like you are effectively managing the problem by avoiding the particular triggers, which obviously only works up to a point.  Anyway, it doesn’t seem to have held you back too much.

Lastly, I’m down on the Culm Coast with friends 26th – 29th June and wondered if it was worth trying to get the southern branch of FC involved on one of the days.  Of course, it is midweek, so perhaps not possible with work, but worth considering?  Failing that, I am also down at my sister’s for a family do near Axminster 12-16 May, which does include a weekend day.

Ross Barker:  Great to hear that your long-standing A2 seems to be behaving well now – ‘not a peep from the A2’ is the way to go.  Also, an absolutely inspiring performance on Rigpa.  Also still got some work to do, but the progress is impressive and you must be pleased that the ‘old crux felt trivial’!  I like the light hangs work as well and be interesting to see how this progresses.

Not sure the smelly poo cave shouts ‘destination target’ to me!  Tom and Tyler were clearly mighty unimpressed with it.  However, though I’ve yet to work out how, I do think that I am going to include bouldering in my monthly schedule, mainly as a method of doing harder moves with more intensity than tends to happen on trad!

Hope Switzerland is going well – you are certainly taking some form over there!

Tom Green:  As the reaction showed, a really impressive week of action and travel.  Heading up to Skye for two days out is showing some dedication, especially on top of a week where you already ticked one of your goals (Consenting Adults) and had a thrash about at Almscliff.

Grey Panther looks a wonderful line – well they all do at Kilt Rock of course!  Strong lines are the famous feature of the place.    I think Consenting was a good redpoint following on from your workout at Almscliff – it would have been very easy to avoid it on the grounds of being wiped out.  Clearly you are putting in the effort every week to bring those targets down and it is paying off really well.

In reply to Derek Furze:

part two

Ally:  That sounds like a nightmare week of travel chaos, though rescued somewhat by spare underwear and the mini-fingerboard.  The resulting week is nothing like your usual routine however, though the little bit of aerocap and the Hamburg half-crimps had some relation to your usual goals.  Not sure what the Monday session pattern means – it looks like 7:3 repeaters somehow, though the 6:1 bit I struggle to grasp – perhaps it is a continuous sequence?

Good to get out on the bike.  Travel chaos need to be banished somehow.  I used to absolutely hate disruption when I used to fly a fair bit (most weeks), in part because I was often departing and returning to Heathrow, which was already something of a b*llache to get to and from.

Tyler:   Good to see the ‘rules’ clarified – your game, your rules anyway.  Soloing is a funny one where you have to feel right on the day, even on ‘easy’ stuff.  Anyway, good to see a quick start made to the unfinished business list – this particular target is inherently challenging of course so it is quite a brave one to include!  An after work Pen Trwyn club sounds brilliant – what a resource to have on your doorstep, though it sounds like conditions and / or route choices were a bit challenging for first time meet of the year.

Great to see you up in the hills  and getting a nice walk done.  It strikes me that this might also have been an after work trip.  If so, see above comment re ‘what a resource…’ as it also applies.  A decent day on Saturday battling with the showers ticking off Plumbline and having a good go on Flash – Pumped!  I’m heading to Lighthouse on Tuesday with a couple of mates, so I will text you in case you want to join in.  If you can get down at all, I can give you a belay on Flash – Pumped! or whatever.

Liam P:  Thanks for the prompt re a pulley.  I’ve got tons on with DIY projects, but must find time to get this sorted for use during May.  I think I am also going to put together a campus set up.

Loved the description of your efforts to mimic Bruce Lee.  A few weeks of chubby, collapsing mess and all will be right with your core.  Your bouldering sessions on Portland seem to be going well as those are big grades to be working on.  How close is Portland for you (and AJM) as I might be able to get across for an evening while I am down at my sister’s mid-May?

Stick at the diet as it looks like you made really good instant progress.  I did find I slowed up, but managed to remove a further four kg by sticking with it and applying myself when I was in the heart of the season.  More good work on the one-arm stuff.

Small Step:  I’m afraid my endless list of DIY projects is self-inflicted, though it can’t hurt in terms of trips away I suppose.  Patio is sort of finished, though some of the timber needs locking into position.  I’m now dismantling and cutting up an old caravan with the aim of installing a small kitchen on the patio…  Anyway, a short trip to the SW planned for late June as a contrast to my usual day trips.

Great progress with your bouldering targets – nice when you unlock something with a different approach.  As for ‘zilch’ on the others – sometimes it is just a style thing.

Really good to see the Munich Division report and sounds like a decent session for everybody.  Certainly, plenty of ticks had and some airtime as well, so clearly everybody trying hard.  Eight routes that include some at your limit is good going.

SteveJC94:  I agree – lots of good things about fit club and the advice, constructive comment and support are just three of them!  Good to see that your week includes a fair bit more of the rehabbing repeaters – I think they must be an exercise in boredom management, so well done for applying yourself so well.   Also positive to see that you have included a bit on the bike as well, so you haven’t let that slip as soon as you could get back on the climbing stuff.

Brilliant to actually get out on rock and one or two of those HVS at Birchen are a right tussle (Orpheus for example).  It is a nice spot with which I am very familiar, but it doesn’t come up often on a fit club report!  Good effort for breaking the mould!  I hope things are developing along okay for you with the rehab generally.

AJM:  ‘A fairly quiet week’ is probably in order after a family holiday that including a decent amount of travel (I have just seen this week’s post though, which continues the theme!).  Rest and recuperation is an important part of training, whether planned or not!

Good to see that Liam and yourself are trying to get out locally, though as with many parts of the country the weather doesn’t seem to be helping even in the English Riviera.  Even better to see that you have organised some trips out that take you out of your local patch as I think getting to less familiar places always adds something in terms of motivation.  Doing stuff on the Grochan a couple of weeks back, while hardly noteworthy, was much more entertaining than familiar stuff on Stanage, in part because it was fifty years since my last visit!  Anyway, good to see your plans developing – having fun is a worthy goal.

Sorry to hear that the shoulder woes continue.  At least the hamstring issue doesn’t appear on the threads now, so things are on the up!  Also, see up thread re SW visit dates in case of interest.

Inglesp:  Yes, I have seen your posts looking for people to get out at various points.  I did actually check the journey time to the Yat, but it is over three hours, so realistically not in range for a day trip.  A shame, as I’m keen to revisit at some point.  There are FC members from Bristol southwards and Matt is over in mid-Wales somewhere, but nobody closed enough to grab an evening out.  I empathise, as availability of partners is the biggest factor in getting stuff done, and something I struggled with for a while with work commitments.  I now play it safe and have far too many people on my list!  Anyway, good to see a return to Wintour’s Leap – fast becoming your destination of choice.

Your approach to indoor bouldering seems similar to mine!  I think the gang in Munich have got this sorted, as have one or two based back here, so there is plenty of patterns to follow on the weekly threads. 

Run training going well with improving pace (pretty quick) and a sense that you have something in reserve.  I’ve not been much this month, so must put a plan in place for May!

The Sheep:  Good stuff Sheep – I can blame my late posting on ‘waiting for Sheep’!  It sounds like a busy week, but three decent runs fitted in somehow and as with Inglesp above, with some variation in approach.  Good to get some adive on swimming technique – don’t tell me that for all these very many kilometres you have been doing it wrong!  I guess it is like lots of things, we do what seems to work without getting some of the detail right.  Hope the adjustments prove fruitful as it probably will make a difference over the distances that you do.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek.

The weekend in May might be an option for me, you'll be about an hour from Portland and I might be able to do a day then.

June likely to be trickier - like you say it isn't a weekend. The culm is sort of reachable for an overnight & day, and I could take a day off, so it's not impossible. Do you know what the tides are like?

In reply to Derek Furze:

*advice*!

In reply to AJM:

Tides are not brilliant, though with very long days it perhaps doesn't matter too much.  The team have cancelled Lundy plan that week as tides difficult 

In reply to Derek Furze:

The walk was after work and this is the time of year I should be making the most of being here, unfortunately weather is continuing not play ball and after work club was cancelled because the only other member was busy this week!

W: went to Beacon with Fi, surprisingly busy there as weather was ok. Managed to finally nail a 7a I’ve tried about 6 times before but nothing else of note.

S: Went to visit mum and dad, asked to mow lawn but after knacking my elbow trying to start it I switched to the strimmer and knackered my elbow some more.
S: Late start to Sticky Mix wall, struggled to bolt to bolt Rocky Road (7a) (thought this would make a good warm up but didn’t). Top pocket was weeping so forced to do the original way which actually felt ok. Got it next go but i climbed so badly I’m almost embarrassed to take the tick! Went on Old Guys Rule but literally can’t do one of the moves, I spent a long time and can’t fathom it which is annoying as it’s not supposed to be that hard and is on my unfinished business list!

In reply to Derek Furze:

A long weekend but an iffy weather forecast and a lot to catch up on at home. I hope Randy managed to make better use of what turned out in the end to be rather good conditions.

STG: depends on local weather & conditions
MTG: tick any of my local long term projects and/or a new-to-me 7a 
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823
LTG: Winter 24 or 25 - do an actual off piste ski tour.

M:    Bike one hour to return my DAV library books

T: Wall, Freimann. Short but good session. 6a+ 6b 6a+ 6c+ 6c+ 6a+ 6b. Redpointed one of the 6c+'s I tried on Sunday, and flashed a juggy 6b on the steep comp wall with no pump or stress whatsoever - an encouraging sign of improving confidence on the steeps.

W: Rings session including pull-ups 3x5 bw, supports, pressups, rotator cuff band exercises

T: Wall, Thalkirchen kilterboard. Short session, unsurprisingly not feeling super fresh after rings yesterday.
F: 
S: MTB in the woods 1½ hours
    Rings session including pull-ups 3x5 bw, supports, pressups, rotator cuff band exercises
    Fingerboard, back on the Learning To Half Crimp Properly wagon

S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Significantly downhill from my last couple of wall routes sessions. 3 x 6a+ to warm up, two goes on a vert crimpy 6c+, fought my way up a 6b, abandoned an attempt on a 6c.
    Absolutely knackered by the time I'd ridden home - feels like I might have a deload week coming on.
 

In reply to Derek Furze:

A weather was better and conditions were decent. Unfortunately i was batteling a nasty cold the whole week and did due anything Mon till Saturday.

I went on the project anyway on Sunday, despite still feeling not really healthy. From a power and strenght level i felt like 90%, but endurance and overall fitness was expected completely gone and after not climbing the whole week i also felt rusty from a coordination point of view.

Nevertheless, i have managed to get back to my previous highpoint from last session and did a new link from 3rd to 5th bolt. Apart from that refined the sequence in the top part, so all in all it was still worthwhile to do the session.

Goal for next week is to keep it easy during the week, get healthy and then try the project again on Sunday.

In reply to Randy:

We are all rooting for you!  Bad luck with the cold.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek, if you use the 'find crags map' function in the UKC database is really easy to get info. Also a lot of the stuff out east has been developed by Mike Adams who has put a lot of effort into making little pdf guides which are easy to find online (used to be on the raw edge days website but I think they've moved now). I also find out about places from talking to other people at crags. Esoteric crags are often frequented by other lovers of weird little venues so info often travels by word of mouth too.

Mon. Rest.

Tues. Froggatt with Tom. Finally finished off Strapadictomy (E5 6b). I did it with the gear in in the end as I find the wire in the flake really blind to place and I've seen 1st hand what happens when someone fell off the top years ago and it came out. I have placed it all on lead before on my ground up goes but I'm happy to leave it like this. Seconded Tom (but I'll leave him to write that one up) then did The Big Crack (E2 5b) which was great fun. 5km cycle late on to drop the car at the garage.

Wed. Rest.

Thurs. Early doors Burbage south hit. Managed Pebble Mill Traverse (f7A+) and then got totally shut down on a 6C. Thanks grit! Cycled out to hathersage with Mrs Swede, 1.7km swim then cycle home via bamford (33km and 700m ascent in total).

Fri. Rest.

Sat. Headed into a very damp chee dale to look for dry rock. Managed to redpoint a damp White Gold Direct (7b) but I was most pleased with a top rope flash of all the hard climbing (minus the easier but really wet top) of a 7c.

Sun. 10km run 230m ascent, 5.11/km. Hungry all day, can't seem to eat enough this week.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Cheers Derek. Good effort churning out that volume of stats on a Bank Holiday weekend.

It’s about 90mins for me so just doable in a day. Unlikely I’d be free midweek due to work but let me know closer to the time and I’ll see if I can get out.

Another 0.5kg off this week so down to 82kg (-6.5kg in 9 weeks).

Away for the Mrs’ Birthday this weekend so was planning a rest week….but couldn’t help myself and ended up ticking a training goal.

Wed

• Felt guilty about missing last weeks Planche Leans and Dragonflags so tried a Bent-Arm Planche on the Parallettes and got it first go!? Last year’s high water mark, and goal to regain this year, was a Bent-Arm Straddle Planche so pretty surprised to get it but maybe dropping 6.5kg was enough. Don’t think the juice is worth the squeeze in training for the straight-arm planche, or at 6’2” if they’re even mechanically possible, so will look at some other progressions to try.
• 5x 5 tuck Dragonflags 

Thu

Wall

• 3x 1 OAPU off a bar (free hand on shoulder). First time I’ve tried these in months and I could only do one set. Felt good with 3 sets so benefitting from the pulley work.
• 3x 5s holds ‘LSit to BA Planche’ on Parallettes. Felt pretty straight forward so need to find a harder progression. 90deg push-ups look very cool but also very hard!
• Campus Board (32mm Metolius Rungs): Ladders 1-4-6 and tickled a 1-3-6. Long Reach 1-5 and tickled a 1-5.5
• Hour bouldering on the comp wall.

Thought I’d pack a load of weight on this weekend but the baby gave everyone Norovirus so I’ve expelled more than I’ve consumed! Will save the weight-scale ‘gains’ for next week.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Afternoon everyone, hope all is well. Top notch statting as always Derek!

Yeah, I was very pleased with that. It's still not 100%, but when I'm warming up carefully I rarely notice it, particularly climbing outside (unless there's a jug that smacks directly onto it - ouch!).

Yes! Join the dark side, we have hard moves and fear of getting pumped!

I wouldn't say I'm in top form to be honest. I think I just happened to have a random good day on Rigpa! Magic Wood has been enjoyable, though I'm not sure I'll be rushing to go back. Aside from the fact that logistically it's a faff compared to Font or elsewhere in the UK, the landings are generally quite gnarly and require a good group or pad muling. There are quite a few pad stashes around (way too many, it's honestly a little sickening), but many of them are chained and locked. It's also not particularly well suited to easy or cruising days, as there's not absolutely loads like Font, and navigating can be a bit tricky and treacherous. Maybe I'm comparing it to Font too much! It's a hardcore, projecting and crimping kinda place.

Last Week:

M - Evening very light hangs.

T - Weigh-in 78.3kg. AM very light hangs. Evening Moonboard. Felt pretty strong but perhaps not robust enough for anything dynamic. Half a dozen benchmarks, nothing too desperate. Ice baths before bed.

W - Rest. Ice baths before bed.

T - Travel day.

F - Tried loads of hard stuff. Dinos Don't Dynos (f7B) felt close, distance was alright but the sharp flake you go for was too painful to actually catch! Tried Intermezzo (f7C) and did most of the moves, but probably won't be back because it's not really all that good - dabby start in a pit, wobbly block at the start. Finished the day slapping some gorgeous slopers on the Beach boulder. A2 was alright, despite heavy use.

S - Started with a flash of Scrubs (f7A) (soft), which I'm pleased with. Then my mate dropped a brush down a hole, so enjoyed some spelunking to get that back. Moved onto Tropischer sandsturm (f7A+) which didn't take too long, then tried some other problem I can't remember the name of. Really perplexing, and after trying all sorts (heel, knee, toe hook) the way to do it is with a meaty double-heel clamp. Stuck the crux then my calf immediately cramped, signalling the end of the day! A2 was fine but didn't push it after going hard yesterday.

S - Lots of uphill walking and general exploring. Did a couple of fine 7As, Heb da Arsch (f7A) and Zilliman (f7A). Both very fun and have decent landings. Tried Jack the Chipper (f7C) and got all but the first move, could be a goer but probably not at the end of the third day! The small crimps on the conventional beta are slick as ice, but I found a way around them after sacrificing some knuckles to the dry fire gods. A2 was fine.

M - Rain scuppered any morning climbing, but I think I was too battered anyway. Now sat at the airport waiting for a delayed flight...

Next Week:

T - Rest.

W - Antagonists.

T - Bouldering.

F - Rest.

S, S - Bouldering.

Goals:

Sort out the A2 injury.

Rigpa.

Oberth Effect Proj.

In reply to Ross Barker:

That was totally my impression on my one brief visit. Sport climbing requirements: one partner, one rope, a few quickdraws. Alpine granite bouldering requirements: many pads, large crew of spotters

Admittedly true of some but not all sectors in e.g Zillertal.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Yeah, some of it is pretty ferocious. I would like to explore more alpine bouldering though, had a flick through my mate's Alpen en Bloc book and there's a lot of inspiring stuff, probably even more now as that one is a bit out of date.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Hi everyone. Thanks, Derek, really appreciate the comments.

Kilt Rock is certainly home to some mega-lines. Also, it made me start thinking that I should probably head to Fairhead at some point... maybe one to book in for next summer.

Week 17:

A bad week, but with some good bits in. 

M: Rest.

T: Trad at Froggatt. A great bit of climbing by SSB on Strapodictomy -impressive to see enough in the tank to improvise a new sequence on the crux, way above gear, when things didn't go as per plan. Chuffed to get my goal for the evening: Strapiombo (E1 5b) -although much less chuffed to pull a muscle in my neck/back as I turned the lip. Didn't think much of it at first, but an hour later was in a lot of pain and pretty much unable to move my head out of a fixed central position. This pretty much wrote off the week's plans.

W: Knackered back. Struggling to do anything apart from essential functions! Terrible sleep despite smashing the painkillers.

T: As per Weds.

F: Still pretty broken, but the cabin fever is starting to outweigh the neck pain!

S: Trail run. 40.9km, 1562m vert, 7:56/km (Yorkshire 3 Peaks). Desperate to get out the house and decided that if I made my legs sore enough then I would forget about my back! Pretty chuffed to run the whole thing (apart from the steep uphills). Also pleased that I stuck with my tactic of no stops (just one 10 min rest and refuel on top of Pen y Ghent) -it really highlights how much time you can save if you do all of your eating/drinking/navigation whilst still moving. 

S: Rest. Back/neck still a bit sore but I don't think any worse from Saturday's run. 

Week 18:

M: Rest.

T: Strength and Fingerboard.

W: Rest.

T: Climbing.

F: Strength and Fingerboard. 

S: Hill day.

S: Hill day.

STG (end Apr): going to give myself one more week on these, as this week was a bit rubbish!

The Jim Grin and/or Consenting Adults (TICK! Consenting)

4 of my big UK mountain day list (3/4)

Average 37.5km running per week. (Currently 35.2)

Average 2 board circuit sessions per week.

Max hangs 93kg

Pull-ups: 97kg

MTG (End July):

Sula (E2 5b)

Classic Envers rock route.

One of my Grande Course wish list.

In reply to Tom Green:

Strong Saturday run scenes. Shame the strapiomback is still hurting. Looking wet again for the back half of this week so at least you won't be missing glorious sunshine.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek.

Starting to up the volume a bit and thankfully the wrist is still faring well. 

M - Rest

T - Flat zone 2 ride. 33km / 145m ascent / 1hr10mins

W - HB repeaters @40%. 20mm edge / varied grips / 7s on 3s off x 6 / 10 sets

T - General bouldering session, working up to V6 on the depot circuit

F - Flat zone 3 ride. 29km / 119m ascent / 55mins

S - Strength & conditioning. Pull-ups 5 x 5 / Push-ups 10 x 3 / Chest press 8 x 3 / Bicycle crunches 16 x 3 / Plank 30s x 4

S - Rest

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thank you Derek,

Only out twice this week but they were quite intense, and with a few physical days at work, I was quite tired, so no extra training, and I used the other days to get some rest.

M- Rest

T - Hard day out, nearly sent Bladder Ladder (7c), but it got to hot make the moves.  Then did a new but short 7b+, it could be bouldered but the top and landing are tricky.  Finished up following a friend up Highway One (E4 6a)

W - Hard day at work on top of the day before, felt really tired.

T - Another hard day at work

F - Quick session outside. Spanish Castle Magic (E3 6a) and The Wrong Glasses (E5 6a)

S + S Rest

Sounds good, actually weekdays are generally better for me. I've PM'd you my phone number.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek, Just back for a Big long day with Mr Claw, but more of that next week – I've added a teaser image at the end of this post.

Re your advice: there’s probably a balance between building up confidence and flow, and pushing yourself so you get used to giving your all out on rock especially on trad, which is such a head game. I definitely seem to be having more fall practice than usual but I when I was young and full of beans I always used to say “If you’re not falling you’re not trying”

STG - E4 end of April (0/1). 20 6th grade boulder problems (14/20). Loose 2kgs (83kg) by end April (currently 83.5kg), 50 sport routes by end of May (15/50). 30 trad routes by end of May (9/30)

MTG: Pabbay Trip – onsight E5

Mon – rest

Tues – rest

Wed –  3 mile run around woods

Thurs – rest

Fri – Stoney West, 4 routes after work, 6a, 6b, 6c, 6c. Cruxes of the 6cs are next to 1st bolt and made a mess of both. Usual Peak limestone undercut minging foothold yuck, got them both 2nd go.

Sat – Finger block 20mm lifts 10 secs Full Crimp (2.5kg, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25), Half crimp (2.5, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 32.5kg, (7secs right, 6 secs left), 32.5 (9 secs right, 7 secs left), 30, 30 (failed 9 secs right, 6 secs left).

Sun – Run 8 miles 66mins pushed second half which included about 3 miles at 7.15 pace (downhill). Enjoyable although achy legs were perhaps not the best preparation for Monday’s adventures.

Reflection

Deload week, almost felt I was letting go too much, still think I needed a proper rest. My last week of 5 day working too, so looking forward to making the most of my Mondays from now on. Hoping for 3 big training weeks coming up, then taper for Pabbay.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Cheers Derek, Its not a major change in technique. It was noticed that I tend to let my arms come across slightly when I'm reaching out rather than being straight and as a result I tend to pull slightly under my body. This causes a reduction in efficiency and power. Therefore I'm concentrating on a straight reach and keeping my arms straighter when pulling back and pretty much brushing my hips at the end of the stroke. I can feel the difference and the improvement in power so I'm making sure i concentrate on implementing the changes and creating new muscle memory. I hit the pool every day Monday to Friday building back up to 1km.

Also the gym at work has had some nice new equipment installed so booked myself an induction to work out a complementary weights program to help strengthen up to prevent injury from the running and swimming. Must get round to include cycling in this! Aim will be to include a weights session twice a week and probably drop a pool session.  

Got three run sessions in during the week too, 5k on Monday. A really nice 14k trail run on Thursday and a gentle 5 k on Friday. In laws visited for the weekend so a nil return there. 

In reply to Derek Furze:

The repeater/gripper nomenclature is 7/3/6/1 = 7s hold / 3s off / x6 / 1min off. 

Week 17

M – Very much squeezed in FB repeater session. 7/3/6/3 x6 @BW+17.5kg. HARD!  Then some aero-cap grippers whilst travelling to Oxford.

T – All day in Oxfordshire. Home late.

W – Nothing. Another long day.

T – CBA with the consequences of an overweight “to do” list at work and took half-day TOIL (still owed more for travel). Oblique still tender and prevented maximum effort being engaged, but I found various movements that I could still do, and it was a very worthwhile session.  TR’d 2x 7b/c newbies that I bolted last Autumn and spied a new highball(ish) which might be in the 8A region?

F – Nothing.

S – 3hrs of gardening, then 45min on the bike; 18km flat, inc some sprints and an unexpected KOM.

S – Gorge.  Got a dodgy belay off a random scouser and managed to complete both of the newbies. I called them Sinful Ending (7b+) and Squiggler (7b+).  I had some attempts on the 8A project and could do the crux in 2 halves via pulling on with a top-rope. One hand position works from below, but you need another position to finish it.

In reply to Derek Furze:

My own report was pitiful this week - basically too wrapped up in garden projects, work, childcare and family visits to do any training at all.

Tuesday - a lovely day at Attermire though started with us being parked in different places and with a very poor phone signal to sort it out!  An hour later than planned, we headed to the crag.  Usually at this stage of the year, I'd be going for volume, but I decided to push myself a bit even though I'm not going smoothly yet.  Seven routes to 6b+ that included quite a few steep ones; being shut down by Alladin (6b) that looks like it has lost a substantial bit of rock; taking two attempts to sort out The Genie's Out (6b and mighty strenuous) and then falling off Sun King due to being seduced by an obvious hold that left it difficult to get back to the line.  Lowered to a semi-rest and then climbed it to the top slightly more directly.  Pleased to be trying stuff.  Not so pleased to suffer cramp from fairly early on.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Should also report an April summary - only four days of actual training sessions!  Some other days that only included a run, which I don't count.  Five days climbing outside.

Fell short of monthly training goals, mainly due to the hard labour patio laying and digging.  I think my average is ok for the year, but I need a more consistent month now.

Fell short of climbing days - weather and work the main issues.  Again, i think this is picking up as felt a bit smoother yesterday, though weather looks like crapping out again!

Didn't hit my modest trad target of an E1, but only managed one day of trad on FC meet up.  Just got to pursue this and the next one (E2 by end of May) this month...

In reply to Derek Furze:

Ok.

• actual climbing: 6 days. All on Kalymnos at the start of the month. Pity not to keep up the momentum on local rock, but all but one of the weekends since I got back have been wet.
• wall sessions: eight. Five routes, three bouldering. Feeling pretty good on these. Should probably take a leaf out of Randy's book and shift the emphasis more towards bouldering, but tbh I'm more motivated for routes at the moment
• Stretching: 7 days. Not bad but not good enough
• General strength & conditioning: 7 sessions. Good.
• General cardio: 16 hours. Includes Kalymnos approach marches, woodland mountain biking x 3 and general riding around town
• Average hours slept: 8. Looks good as an average but it's significantly bumped up by holiday rest days; since I came home I've barely averaged seven. Not good - need to make a more concerted effort to get into bed before midnight

And wall sessions included the Fit Club Munich Meet

In reply to Derek Furze:

You kids have no idea, I remember when all you had was 2p for the phone box and you’d have to make arrangements weeks in advance…

In reply to Tyler:

Said the 53 year old to the 65 year old!  You're right though, it is amazing how we take it for granted.  Second time this sort of fiasco has happened near Settle.

To add to the techno woes, when I did walk up a hill I sent Charles one of those my location markers.  He jumped in his car and it took him to someone's driveway about 15 minutes away.

On the 'you kids' theme though, my first set of wires was Chouinard Stoppers.  I only got alternates as I couldn't afford a full set (good job, they were nicked soon after).  I had a total of six wires.  Just added two to my 'smalls' - sizes 1 to 3.  A bit shocked that I now have eleven on that crab and some spares in the cupboard!

In reply to Derek Furze:

I retired my Chouinard #2's when I discovered they're rated for 2kN. Still have a couple of #3's on my active service rack (inasmuch as any of my trad rack can be described as "in active service")

In reply to AlanLittle:

Here's my attempt at a summary for April with for comparison March's summary in brackets

Wall sessions 4 (March 7), Finger training 4 (M 5), Core 4 (M 3)

Outdoor climbing Trad 3 days (M 1), 8 routes (M 1), 3 x clean E3s (M 1)

Sport 1 day (M 1), 4 routes (M 3)

Boulder 2 days (M 3)

Runs 10 (M 1), 55 miles (M 3)

So from those stats it looks like I did less training but more outdoor climbing, especially trad, and loads more running! Am I doing too much running when I should be doing more wall sessions? Perhaps something to slightly re-adjust these final few weeks through May. 

In reply to AJM:

The weekend does indeed look wet so it's looking pretty unlikely I'll be getting that day outside this weekend.

On the plus side though the shoulder has calmed down and if anything seems perhaps less grumbly the last day or so than the previous week. Which is a huge relief.

In reply to Ian Parnell:

I think running only works well as training if you are losing weight because of it. If you are already fairly lean then you are probably better off doing something more specific to climbing.

I don't find it makes me better at climbing.  I do it because I enjoy it and it means walk ins aren't quite so torturous if I venture out of the Peak. I usually do loads of stretching afterwards which helps offset the lack of flexibility from stiff muscles.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Hi Derek, thanks for the stats and remarks. As ever. That’s some high-level DIY stuff going on. Hopefully you can leave it be for a spell and get into the swing of things this month for your June trip.

I’m a bit late this week – I’ve had a few really good weeks, not just the plastic climbing / training but with others at the wall, including of course with Alan and Randy at our Munich meet. I was expecting a backlash of sorts (the trauma stuff) but it nonetheless caught me off guard when it swelled up again. A couple of ‘black dog days’ (I call him Snowy) followed this week – suddenly my enthusiasm was doused. No need for further details, of course, but I’m mentioning this because I sense that the Fit Club is playing a part in keeping me on track and not succumbing – and I’d like to acknowledge this help.

Last week went so:

Mon: stretching and upper body exercises
Tue: stretching and light finger board session
Wed: wall, Thalkirchen, only 6 routes: 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c+, 6c…climbed quite well and had lots of fun on the 6c+; considering that I had to get up at 4 that morning to meet a deadline before heading into Munich – and then nodded off on the train…as good as I could have. Finished on the 15° spray wall continuing the look for new sequences.
Thu: stretching & upper body
Fri: had intended to boulder but got a call to go climbing, so I thought I’d combine them – a boulder session followed by ca. 6 6b’s for a bit of conditioning. Completely overestimated myself: new boulders set and it went OK, nailed a bit of steeper stuff without too many tries (some first go); the routes though…absolutely empty after 3 6bs…to put a positive slant on it: maybe I’m bouldering harder than before and there was nothing left in the tank? Or: it’s about age and recovery – need to take a longer break and refuel better between the two sessions? Or maybe just keep them separate in future?
Sat: long stretching session in the sun (finally!) and light upper body.
Sun: first hike since the Dolomites in Feb – a ‘spring classic’ in Chiemgau, ca. 6 hours, good weather, enjoyable day…

Weather has been really good here for the last two days – hopefully Randy will be Chasin’ the Trane in Frankenjura and Alan can reignite his Kaly momentum on the weekend.

Good rest of the week to all.

Paul

In reply to AlanLittle:

The inaugural meet? ; -)

In reply to Small Step:

I'd be up for doing it again, although ideally with some actual rock next time

In reply to Derek Furze:

Just creeping in before the buzzer.  Past couple of weeks have been unusually busy at work, but I'm now in North Wales for the weekend and doing some real climbing.

Last week:

Mon -

Tue - Week 6 "easy" run.  14km at 6:30/km.

Wed - Social climbing indoors.  Don't remember much.

Thu - Week 6 tempo run.  After a warmup I'd planned to run 5km at 4:30/km, but only made it to 3km.  I don't think I'll be doing a 45min 10km next week!

Fri -

Sat - Autobelays.  Flashed a 6c+.  Usually when this kind of thing happens the route immediately gets a big downgrade, but the consensus seems to be that the grade's about right.

Sun -

In reply to AlanLittle:

A definite yes from me as well. Organising will no doubt be the hard part.
Maybe after Randy's caught his trane...
Hope you've had a good week.