UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_848-7609...

Somerset Swede Basher: ‘Only two climbing sessions’!  I’ve been dreaming of such consistency this year!  You’re right though, it can make a remarkable difference for many of us, though some people seem able to step back on and climb as if they haven’t had a break.  Work sounds as if you have been pretty busy.

Good effort getting on Unleashing the Wild Physique.  At 8a, it should feel hard, though I guess you would expect to be able to work out the moves given the relatively short time it usually takes you to complete your 7c projects.  Rain expected this week, so hope the Cornice stays dry for what might be a protracted project.  I think it is fairly weatherproof once dry.

Good to see that some fit club members are finally beginning to take their partying a bit more seriously.  I appreciate that some of your weekend festivities were aimed at the seven-year-old, but proper adult parties also featured.  Baby steps and all that.

Ian Parnell:   Interesting to see how tired you were on return – clearly an exhausting trip all in!  I guess the travel is a factor as well.  Reflecting that all the last-minute panic to sort out the mouse-shredded tents was probably unnecessary with the fine weather, but then if you had risked it, it would have invited a downpour.

Interesting comment about your ability to pull on flatties, which is the territory Biscuit has been working over recent weeks with some success already.  Check back on some of the threads to see how he has attacked the weakness.  Note that working the weakness won’t be helped by an eating frenzy, though presumably some of this is replacing depleted reserves from the trip.

Having got to your long-term goal, good to see you immediately resetting with a fine list and with the running and climbing combination, about which you told me more on our day out.  It sounds like a great target – pretty ambitious I think, but handy as it is local and plenty of us could help with support on the crag-based bits as I think your intention was to do the climbing roped.

AlanLittle:  With PBs like that you will have to ask if work can arrange some more setbacks!  Joking aside, it can be miserable when something falls apart at work, so hope things are back on track.  Clearly the events of Thursday had a pretty depressing effect on the Friday session, but the week was going along okay up until then,  Anyway, take the positives as a 6c+ is a decent return from an ‘unfocused session’.

A bit poor that the shoulder health workshop got cancelled at a late stage when people were already committed to travel arrangements!  A frustrating end to a difficult week and you seemed unimpressed with the big bouldering gym (possibly a view tainted by the preceding few days?).  Excellent work on the deadlifts though – clearly taking out your frustration on the weights!

Some kms on the bike across the week as well as the general weights work.  Quite a bit of shoulder-focused stuff going on, despite the missing workshop!

An excellent depiction of one man and his Alp with your reminiscing about Hohe Kisten and the long search for a decent route up and down!

Tyler:  Good to see that you abandoned your homage to Morgan Spurlock before you did too much damage.  Clearly the improved diet of Bananas and Coffee worked a treat.

Yes, I was impressed with Ian’s immediate resetting of goals having got pretty close to his big one for the year up on Pabbay.  Credit for getting on it I reckon.  I got to view Mortlock’s close up again last week – don’t think I’ve been on Chee Tor since around 1997 or so and I’d forgotten quite what a fantastic looking line it is.  However, it also looks distinctly uphill…

Five trips up at Devil’s Gorge is impressive and certainly demonstrates some fitness as it is pretty steep throughout.  Good work to persist, especially after the alpine start undertaken.  Other than that a week of being frustrated with conditions, including when you were forced inside! 

Liam P:  Yes, I had forgotten quite how far away you were from Portland.  Ninety minutes is a bit of a haul and though I usually do travel that far for the sake of exploring newer venues, I’m not working full-time and I actually have crags within five minutes if things get desperate.  I did used to live ten minutes from Curbar and would regularly nip there in lunch breaks!

You may be forced to train, but it is going well and including a good range of stuff regularly these days.  You seem to have got a good pattern going and are doing exercises deliver different strengths.   Good to see the campus progression and your parallette work is developing as well.  Good one-arm work with the hangs and the lock offs.  Weight falling again so some discipline being shown.

Yes to getting on the ropes, though you’ve had quite a bit of success with bouldering this year so far.

Mattrm:  Great to see the goals emerging.  I definitely need to put a bit more thought into my running goals, but it is early days yet and so far, I am struggling to get a regular outing as my running partners are often changing arrangements.  I really want to get to a minimum of two runs a week, but am going to fall short this week as only done one 5 km (and that slow as we had a novice along).

Useful to get a longer run on your plan at last, though it seems you need a bit of work on your route-finding.  You’ll be copying that ultra runner and getting a lift for part of your trail next.

Ian gave me some useful ideas to break the pattern of jogging and introduce more pace, so I intend to try some of those next time I get out.

SteveJC94:  Yes – a lot to be said for long-term work to develop a base and I think that PE is more likely to drop off without work.  It is the least trained area for most climbers anyway.

Great to see you back to something like your normal targets on the board at least, with the 7B+ projects and the volume session.  That looks like a session from last year really.  Some decent rides as well and as commented before pretty fast if you are managing to maintain zone 2.

I’ve only been to Goat once (in 1980 as a graduation celebration).  I did Tumbleweed, Alone in Space (probably now a field) and Bitter Oasis, so I’ve still got the Hard Rock tick to do!  It was pretty clean then as this was at the time when it was developed – many of those routes were done in the late seventies Lakeland boom.  It is a great crag that suffers badly from neglect.  That looked like a very good weekend of classic ticking anyway.

Re sport.  I can help on your alternate Fridays if you struggle to find partners, but I don’t tend to go out at weekends.  I’m not someone who has ever redpointed, but happy to learn and in any case I can just get on my own stuff anyway.  I can also manage some evenings in the Peak if that works?

The Sheep:  Good to hear that the explanation for the serious pain was the treatment itself!  Also great to hear that other meds are reducing down now, so things getting back under control.

That week looks more like it!  All a bit more on plan and a measured approach to getting back to exercise, though you missed out the middle 40 days or so of the couch to 5k!  Mind you, it probably would have got you bored as you were well-beyond that level prior to your episode.  Quite a bit of swimming as well – just like the old days!

Good work getting the event done – it would have been easy to find an excuse.  It sounds quite hard work with some steep ground, so nice that you both completed in the pack!

Randy:  Agreed, if only you could get outside more often because your numbers translate to quite a bit of harder stuff really.

Yes, I think wrist-based is usually ok, but it was a bit out on this one occasion – perhaps I hadn’t got it tight enough that day.  Your running continues to impress – 4.20 splits are pretty decent and your long run at 4.53 is also really strong.  As you note, your running fitness is developing really well and 44km is building up to quite a distance.

Great work attacking the one-armers, as doing sets at 85% is getting pretty close.  Not at all surprised that your lock offs suffered immediately following!  Completing a second round of the one-arm work later in the week is excellent, showing that your recovery is good from the intense work.  The progress across the year is brilliant and an inspiration to us all – really well done.

Now it would be nice if you could spend more time on some rock!

AJM:  Re via ferrata – I was a reluctant convert really, but came across one by chance and the kids absolutely loved it.  I enjoyed it as well as they are often really well designed, so combine some very spectacular sections with a good level of safety.  The kids immediately understood the principles for moving between sections – I had thought this would need a lot of close supervision, but they buddied up well anyway and we made up ‘mantras’ to help them with the sequences.  I think that a lot of the stuff in the Dolomites is more serious.

Sneaked in some pretty strong pull-ups there AJM.  Sets of ten (ok nine) at plus 6kg is pretty strong.  Implementing bike training is also a step towards freeing up some time later on – in my experience they pick it up quickly and get really keen.  My youngest learnt in the morning at a car park, then did a circuit of the reservoir next to Ladybower in the afternoon.  On reflection, this may have been ambitious!

Part two

Ross Barker:  Holiday week so amazingly quiet one from you Ross, but good to see that you got a strength session in regardless!  Given the swimming going on it looks like nice weather wherever you are.  Capsizing a pedalo is quite a feat and possibly as impressive as the usual feats at the Dugout. 

Is there still some sort of plan for first weekend in September or has that faded away?  I have half-organised to go to my sisters that weekend, so would get across to Portland or wherever for a day or two.

Have fun getting back on it when you return.

Tom Green:  Despite the dragged out lurgy, that is more like the weeks that we have come to expect, so good to see a return to action after a few quiet weeks.

Grooved Arete has taken a bit of a fit club hammering of late – I think that is the third member up it in about as many weeks.  Soloing in the rain is an impressive approach to getting something done in the hills regardless of conditions, so well done for getting out when the weather was less than optimum and sticking with the plan despite traffic.

Iron Crag is on my list of places to go as it was hardly developed when I lived in the Lakes.  Not sure how keen I am now you have described it as ‘hard and a bit scary’.  Good to follow such a classic route though.

Also excellent to see some more fit club partying.  Tbh, I worry about the younger members and their relatively sober lifestyles.  After all, in my day nothing counted unless you started with a hangover and training on anything other than a full English was regarded as a pretty low form of cheating.

One week to go until the end of June.  How goes the STG?  Another pretty big mountain day this week anyway.

Steve Claw:  Very un-Avon like by the sound of it, but glad that someone still enjoys the esoterica enough to put the time into cleaning them.  It is interesting how people will put effort into new things – even developing whole crags like Great End in Borrowdale – all with no guarantee that things will stay clean for long.  Most things have a burst of relative popularity that keeps them clean for a while, but there are some very good routes that are no longer climbable without a serious gardening effort.  Much of Goat Crag as SteveJC94 remarked.

Glad that elbows have become a niggle rather than the painful problem that they were over winter.

Excellent to see that you can’t resist a nose around when you are away with work!  Hope you are back to your usual routines this week.

Small Step:  Apologies – I didn’t remark on your being off radar last week, which is something I normally try to note.  I’ve been fighting to get things done on time with my own holidays and so on …

That sounds like a brilliant trip that delivered exactly what you needed – plenty of mileage at a relaxed standard is a great way back into things.  Taking pleasure in the wildlife is also something I’d enjoy.

Your taking stock is very positive really with a fair bit more outside in recent times than previously alongside a consistent gym performance.  Interesting reflections on the style that plastic pulling can deliver and that it can create some bad habits as well as some strengths.  Here I am working hard to convince myself to apply myself to indoor climbing this winter and you have come along with another reason not to bother!

Welcome back and glad to hear that the discipline of reporting in each week has helped in some way.  Hope the rest of summer continues to be productive.

Biscuit:  Wow!  More big plans with a trip to the Cairngorms planned, though perhaps sensibly deferred given the conditions.  Anyway, I’ll still credit you the adventure points.

Very consistent work on your gym sessions, which is good to see over the heart of the season.  Also maintaining the work on your ‘active finger protocol’ ™ which I think Ian might be taking a look at as he feels it is a weakness of his (not that apparent to me!).

Stunning session at Reecastle, which is somewhere I want to get back to at some point (having last climbed there in the early 80’s).  I’ve done Rack Direct, but none of the E3s, so quite aspirational and a marker of getting back there at some point.  Nice crag though and I’d assume it maintains some popularity as it is clean and relatively close to the road.  In fact, I’m not sure it fits your mountain crag criteria really…

Climbthatpitch: Glad that fit club is helping to keep you at it.  It is difficult through the heart of the season as people don’t want to trash themselves when they might be climbing the following day or whatever, but keeping some maintenance work going is useful – partly because it helps with being in a better position at the start of the next Autumn cycle.

You had a great week for getting out and a lot of classic ticks in amongst the routes!  Four sessions outside and two away from your home crag is going well.  I always wanted to go to Ogmore when travelling down to Pembroke, but somehow the tides never worked out.  It does sound very impressive and Exposure Explosion is probably the classic intro.

4 big routes at Wintour’s and then 30 push ups?  Not sure how much they will have added at the end of a pretty big day, but well done regardless!

Inglesp:  Have you run into Lee yet as you both spend a fair bit of time in the Wye Valley?  Got to happen sooner or later.

An interesting solo experience and maybe some inner wisdom going on to keep you safe.  I frightened myself soloing Zelda there one day – crag to myself, but it is fairly high and a bit insecure so it got to me.  It is okay when things flow, but strange things can unsettle that state and it is important to listen to your body.

My ‘suggestion’ was really about introducing variety into what can be a boring exercise.  It wasn’t meant as a challenge, but great to see your enthusiastic attempt.  Yes, it is adding quite a lot more volume into the routine, so you would need to build up slowly.  A pyramid to 7 is 49, 8 is 64 and 9 is 81 or starting at 5 and going to 10 and down to 5 is 80, so there are plenty of combinations to give varying loads.  As Ian remarked, you are already strong at these.

The 4x4x48 challenge sounds entertaining.  Doesn’t sound as if it should be that hard, but when you factor in working through two nights!

Ally Smith:   Amazed to see that you are still getting loads done (in both senses, those axle lift loads are heavy!), despite the challenges of a new baby to handle.  Getting a PB on the central slot hangs is also very positive and demonstrates some results from the work you have been putting in while preoccupied with family matters!  Not at all surprised by the DOMS after the dead lifts as you were clearly right on the limit.

Getting out of the house for a thrash on the bike is probably good for you.  I always think that making space for yourself is important as it is very easy (and also very nice) to get preoccupied with the new arrival and the needs of your other children.  Somehow this can end up with people losing themselves or letting go of things that are important to them.  Riding bikes uphill wouldn’t be my choice, but I commend it anyway!

Yeah, that is always the issue for me. Finger is still bothering me a little bit. I probably could already climb, as i am pain free when i am doing repeaters. But i can still feel that the finger is a little bit inflated and i am afraid that it will get worse again if i push it too early. Hence, goal is to get completely injury free over the summer and then hopefully send something hard in autumn.

Recap last week:

Mon: Fartlek run, 2x 5 minutes hard 3 minutes easy run, 3 minutes hard, 2 minutes easy, splits were 3:53/km (164 HR), 3:49 /km (172 HR), 3:59/km (174 HR), 3:49/km (179 HR), pace for easy runs was around 4:30/km, very hard session and also very hot with 32°, probably went a little bit too fast in the beginning and then really had to fight a lot on the last 2 reps, 4:30/km on the "easy" part is probably also to quick to really recover

Tues: Easy run, 30 minutes 4:47/km, 133 HR, again very hot with 32° and as expected still quite knackered from yesterday

Wed: Assisted One-Arm-Pullups at 87,5% BW, 3; 2.5; 2.5 .Fingerboard repeaters: 3x6x7,3 at 90% BW on 20mm egde.  Handstands, 2x12 Pikepushups, 20 weighted pushups with 15kg added, 45s V-Situps, good progress on the one-arm pullups, but felt quite destroyed after them and hence did not do any more lockoffs

Thurs: Easy run, 50 minutes, 4:40/km, 139 HR, nice temperatures with 24°, but i felt generally quite tired, i probably need to acknowlegde that pullups training is also tiring you ought for running and vice versa

Fri: Rest

Sat: Long run, 80 minutes 4:44/km, 137 HR; felt fully recovered after a real rest day, first 80 minutes long run and i could have gone for 15 minutes for without a problem but did not want to push it too hard

Sun: Assisted One-Arm-Pullups at 87,5% BW, 2.5; 2.5; 2.5. Assisted lockoffs with 92,5% BW at various angles for about 6s to 10s, for 90° and 45° with right i did not used any assistance. Fingerboard repeaters: 3x6x7,3 at 90% BW on 20mm egde.Handstands, 2x12 Pikepushups, 2x20 weighted pushups with 15kg added, 45s V-Situps; felt stronger than on wednesday but somehow could not translate into more reps, maybe also a coordination problem as i could to do the lockoffs without any issues while i was completely wasted on Wednesday

Another good running week and i really see a lot of progression, which is also expected as i did not do too much running in the last time. But i've also noticed that it is overall quite fatiguing and i definately was at my limit this week. Hence, will probably reduce the running once i can climb again but for the moment it is a good use of my time. 

Great statting Derek, thank you. I’ve been trying flattie training on Beastmaker 45 slots but note that my skin bunches up and jams on the edge so it sort of feels like a (painful) cheat. I’ve ordered a couple of big wooden slopers which hopefully will be a bit more specific.

Mon – Chee Tor with Derek F. Led Alfresco (HVS 5b) (a horticultural battle; very, very dirty), Meditation (E1 5b), Approaching (E3 5c) Hot and hard work but climbing quite well.

Tues – Depot wall – warm up (5 x green, white, blue, black, and 3 attempts red), 40mins on 30-degree Woodie attempted 6-7 problems given ‘5a’ felt like 6a English or Font 6A-6B. Flashed one, several attempts to last hold on 2, worked away on other 4. Attempted 6 steep reds, flashed 1, close to top on another couple, struggled on others.

Wed – 4 mile run

Thursday- 5 mile run

Friday – rest

Saturday - Anston Stones. Very humid, with only one problem completed; The Ent (f6B+). A very short, eliminate style problem which I suspect I didn’t use all the prescribed holds in the right order but what I did do was a nice puzzle, which took me probably 20 goes to figure out – boy! I’m crap at bouldering. Home. Pull ups on Beastmaker 45mm slots 2,3,3,3,3,2 (14 total) 2 mins rest between. Yves lifts. Lattice block 20mm x5 each hand, 5kg, 7.5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 (4 reps), 27.5, 27.5, 27.5, 27.5 (4 reps)

Sunday- climbing tomorrow, so a couple of 2-3 mile walks, one with my wife on her horse and one wildlife watching. Hot.

Reflection. Good to get back into some sort of routine this week after doing so little last week. My stamina and head feel in a reasonable state but I’m aware strength and power are nowhere near the levels I require, to do any of my tick list of routes. So, I’ve been forcing myself to try steeper things. The woodie at The Depot, in particular, is something I’ve avoided previously as it’s like a show cabinet full of my weaknesses. Hilariously I can only project the very easiest problems. All are given 5a, although this can’t be on any recognisable grading system. They’re also given names like ‘Easy warm up’, ‘Easy way up’, ‘Tracey’s path’, most of them have several moves at or beyond my limit so linking them is a major challenge – so I guess just what the doctor ordered!

Thanks for the detailed set of stats Derek.

That's great to hear, I'll definitely take you up on that offer and drop you a message when I next have a Friday off that aligns with good weather! Likewise evenings can be doable for me dependent on days I've not got late meetings with work.

M - Hip & leg flexibility. Active posterior chain mobility. Forearm mobility

T - Project bouldering on the board. Projected a 7A+ and got a bit further on the 7B+. Shoulder shrugs 5 x 5. Press-up 3 x 10. Shoulder press 3 x 10. Ab crunches 3 x 8. Back arches 3 x 10. Russian twists 3 x 15

W - "Aero 4's" (4 sets of 4 continuous reps on the 6b circuit). 

T - 7:3 repeaters @ 70% (BW-2kg). 6 sets of 6 reps. 3 sets of 5 minutes very easy climbing on the spray board. 3 x 2 dumbbell row. 2 x 5 shoulder press

F - Upper body mobility

S - Life admin day

S - Took a friend for his first day climbing outdoors at  Harpur Hill Quarry. Took it easy and sampled a selection of the 6c to 7a classics, the best of the bunch being Full Frontal (6c+) which had some great moves on the techy direct start

Thanks Derek, I've been feeling a bit despondent this week. My last 3 boulder sessions, last 2 sport session and my last trad session have all been a bit poor. Not sure why I seem to be struggling at the mo. To top it off I tweaked a finger at the end of Monday so bouldering and Max hangs are off the menu for a few weeks and big muscle groups and routes are back on.

Mon. Boulder session at crag X. Not very productive. Tweaked my finger on the last go. Balls.

Tues. 5x5 pull ups (+10kg), 5x5 bicep curls (+10kg), 3x10 press ups.

Wed. 6 sets of repeaters (just at body weight so not to aggravate the unhappy finger - a little tweaky warming up but ok at that intensity). 5x5 on the min pull ups, 3x10 press ups.

Thurs. 17km run, 450m ascent.

Fri. 11km run, 350m ascent.

Sat. Short early morning cornice session. Didn't want to try and pull on the small holds of Unleashing yet but managed Too Pumpy for Grumpy (7b+) 3rd tie in.

Sun.5km kids walk then the same upper body routine as Tuesday.

Thank you Derek,

Slightly more interesting week, but super hot down this way.

M - New Sport routes, 6a, 6a, 6a+ Cleaned, geared and led (rope solo) the same day.  Although I like doing things with others around me, I can easily just get on with it by myself, (and possibly more productive.)

T + W Nothing

T - Hard overhanging new route at 7c (might be 7b+ to beasts that work out on a Moon Board) 40deg overhanging for 12m. Big holds, but really had to fight to get to the top, as I'm just not strong on this sort of thing.  Elbows were not happy, but surprisingly not as bad as I thought they might be.

F - DOMS in all sorts of places, but off to have a play on the Brean Trad.  Cleaned up an old E2 5c which was harder than I expected (probably due to the DOMS).  Then a new HVS and new VS

S+S Nothing

Have you or Guy looked at freeing The Blucher (E6 6b)?

Sorry to hear that you're struggling Swede.  It will pass!

Looking at that today 🙂

In the grand scheme of things I've got nothing to complain about.  I think the main problem is that I've been climbing at a similar grade locally for over a decade and have done a huge amount of the nearby limestone 7Bs and sport 7cs and lots of the stuff that's harder than this that suits me.  The obvious solution is to get better to give me more options but that's a struggle too as I much prefer to be outside than down the wall or on the fingerboard at home.  I always climb my best things of the year directly after the winter (so training does work!) and at the end of the summer holidays (I find I get much stronger when the stress of work is removed for 6 weeks).  I think that is why I've enjoyed exploring out east on the mag lime over the last few months as its given me some new things to go at.  I don't think I've any particular point to make - just musing.

Did you take a look back when you were Bristol based?

Thanks Derek. I always look forward to your thoughtful and detailed commentary. A fairly quiet week for me.

STG: tick any of my local long term projects
MTG: tick my first 7a for two years
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823
LTG: Winter 24 or 25 - do an actual off piste ski tour.

M: Rest day. 
T: Another rest day, as my intentions of going to the wall melted in the heat
W: Wall, Gilching. Sweaty autobelay mileage 6a 6a 6b 6c 6c 6b+ 6b+ 6b
T: Had planned to go out on the bike in the woods in the evening, but then after many days of sticky heat & humidty, a huge wave of thunderstorms finally rolled through. So I opened the windows wide and did a session on the rings in the living room instead: (light) weighted pull-ups, supports, face pulls, scap pulls.
F:  Bike one hour
S: Climbing, Brauneck again. My attempt on the 6c+ I had my eye on was embarrassingly poor, but at least I took some falls instead of just lamely taking so that's a plus. And a day out in the mountains with a friend is never a bad day.
S: Wall, Weyarn. Afternoon autobelay routes in pursuit of that elusive second-day-on fitness. Not a particularly enjoyable session - but who ever said endurance training was always supposed to be fun? 6a+ 6a+ 6c+ dnf 6b+ 6c 6c 6b

Hi all, hope you're surviving the heat. Top job with the stats, Derek. It's much appreciated.

Week 25:

A week where I switched plans around a bit due to the weather in the hills not being so great. Bad for training, but good for fun cragging!

M: Alpine start for work.

T: Work. Prehab.

W: Trail run. 13.0km, 395m vert, 6:23/km. Core and Prehab.

T: Bouldering at Bridestones (the North Yorkshire one). Highlight was Master Pepperpot (V4).

F: Sport at Trollers. Back on The Jim Grin (7a) -no real progress, in that I can do all the moves, but am still not fit enough to get it in one. Not sure how much of this can be improved by climbing more efficiently -I'm worried that even if I do it slicker I will still be a bit short of endurance. I still feel a bit wiped post-lurgy though, so I'm going to remain optimistic for now. Prehab.

S: Trad at Chee Dale and Staden. Did Meditation (E1 5b) (super sport on mates gear) but nearly died of heat stroke so bailed to the shaden in Staden. Got another five routes in, the highlight being Charas (E1 5b).

S: Sport at the Cornice. Fun, but not overly productive! Was feeling whacked from being the fourth day on. Dogged up Clarion Call (7a) but didn't have the skin for the low crimpy crux, or the beans to make much of a go of the upper section.

Week 26:

M: Run. Prehab

T: Core and strength. Prehab.

W: Rest.

T: Climbing.

F: Core and strength. Prehab.

S: Run. Prehab.

S: Hill day.

STG (End June):

Average 2 core sessions per week. (1)

Average 3 prehab sessions per week. (2)

4 of my 'big mountain day' list. (1)

MTG (End July):

Two routes off my alpine bucket list.

The other solution is to get weaker, no effort required and then all those routes you previously ignored as not providing sufficient challenge are now worthwhile objectives. It’s working for me!

That's my new LTG!

Don't let me put you off. I think I was just feeling at a bit of a low ebb, and so everything felt like hard work. It's a good crag in a lovely setting, with routes that are definitely worth a visit. And if this hot weather continues it will be a good choice!

Afternoon everyone, great work on the stats as usual Derek.

Yeah I'm still keen for it, I suppose we should probably book a campsite or something? In previous trips it's always been reasonably small numbers so we just turn up and pay when we get there, but if there's a handful of us plus other friends/family then it could be worth getting a better idea of numbers. Or just have the date set, pick a campsite, and have everyone sort their own party individually? Really not sure!

Back in the swing of things this week. Kicked off with the realisation that my index finger is definitely more injured than tweaked, plus generally feeling a bit weak and lethargic, no doubt the temperatures haven't been helping. Had a great day out on the weekend though, which finished at the local curry house, always a treat!

Last Week:

M - Travel, see last week.

T - Weigh-in at 78.8kg. Evening indoor bouldering. The vaguely tweaky left index now feels well-strained. Not sure it's an A2 as mechanically I feel like different things aggravate it. One door closes, another one opens. Last time I ever take a whole week off! Was alright to sensibly climb on, being careful with the load. Ice baths before bed.

W - AM and PM very light hangs.

T - AM very light hangs. Evening indoor bouldering. Generally felt a bit feeble, surprisingly found loads of kneebars to cheat/practice though. Finger felt better than Tues but I was also not crimping as hard.

F - Ice baths before bed.

S - Tonfedd. Started with a swim in Llyn Padarn while we waited for the weather to clear up in the pass. Mostly just some good mileage, nothing too hard on the finger, but still managed a couple of reasonably tough things, including a tasty flash of Meadow Roof (f6C). Felt better than the other two sessions this week by miles, but the approach felt way more tiring than previous visits - looking at my logbook, it seems it's been ages since I last did a proper steep walk-in!

S - Tired. Rest.

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Climbing.

W - Rest.

T - Climbing.

F - Rest.

S, S - More climbing!

Goals:

Rehab left index thing.

Improve ability on tiny edges.

Work on PE.

Oberth Effect Proj.

Yeah I've curbed my worst excesses but increased activity hasn't led to any weight loss, time to get drastic again. 

I'm still pretty fearful of getting on harder trad (although opportunities have not really presented themselves either) and my physical shape has not improved to the extent that it compensates either.

I thought that but I wasn't able to repeat the trick yesterday.

Week started well but fizzled out.

M: 13 min yoga. Evening trip to Carreg Mianog, walk in took longer than expected/advertised but worth it as I did what might be the best VS pitch I've ever done (Cracked Arete (VS 4c), absolutely perfect in every way. I then followed Zippo (E3 5c) which I'm sure I could have lead but the point is I never would have.

T: 13 mins yoga

W: 13 mins yoga. Evening at LPT, The Mean Mother (7b) went as easily as I'd hoped (bolt to bolt then first RP of the evening) but then I spoiled things by failing to do Thick Skinned.

T: 13 mins yoga. Forecast rain for tomorrow so forced myself to Cromlech boulders. Fingers weren't having it at all. Literally couldn't hang anything but dragged my matts over to Cross Fader and spent about an hour not doing any of the first three moves. After a short rest I decided on one last try when I shocked myself by getting to the very last move but dropped it as I'd not looked at these (on this evening) I dropped it in the same place next go using the correct beta because shorts and bloody knees stopped my kneebar beta working! Second 10:30pm finish of the week!

F: 20 mins yoga with different YouTuber, she's mean, I'm going back to Ali Maz!

S: Nowt

S: Was meant to be a trad day but weather looked better on the coast so a compromise was reached where we clipped bolts at a crag that was a bit sketchy and involved a lot of faff. The climbs at  The Little Orme are brilliant, I was pleased to flash The Mad Hatter (6c+) (possibly my first since moving to I Wales?) but I was disappointed to drop The Mower twice on RP, poor execution again as I was super close first attempt and just changed my beta for no reason.

Injury audit:

Elbow - only sore for about 2f hours after climbing

Ankle - much worse, hobbling everywhere

Fingers - just generally sore, lumps appearing on both index fingers. Can't bend left ring finger.

Knees - same, cannot stand from crouch position unaided.

Toes - variable, but not at their worst

Back - been sore all week which is unusual

disappointed to drop The Mower twice on RP, poor execution again as I was super close first attempt and just changed my beta for the sole reason of amusing my fit club buddies (FTFY)

Thanks Derek.

Monday - pullups@bw+6 8,7,6. Then chin-ups@bw+6 3x7. Not my strongest showing but ok volume.

Tuesday - shoulders a bit achey. Couple of sets of nice slow pushups in the evening.

Wednesday - rest, work social in the evening

Thursday - Lulworth. Greasy as anything. Usual selection of warmups and a plunge off Horny, feet skating about all over the shop

Friday - nothing, parents here

Saturday - hot! Tried to do morning board stamina but it was already pretty sweaty. My skin has been a bit of a mess from Lulworth so I was also trying not to make that much worse.

Sunday - also hot! Went to the beach, much carrying of children in and out of the sea - “we’re going on a wave hunt, we’re going to find a big one”

Keeping fingers crossed for the weather this weekend as we have a 3 dayer due to a school inset day. Need to let skin regrow!

I'm managing an hour a day to exercise at the moment courtesy of SPL and not having to work. This will change drastically when I'm back in the office 😞

I've also been worrying on modifying the moonboard so I'm not limited by the sidewall and hoping this will enable me to complete some missing benchmarks in my palmeres?

Week 25

M – Board10 – a bit lacklustre. Afew 7A+ flashes, but no beans for harder problems.  Static core. 

T – I forget?

W – 5x7 BW pull-ups. Warm-up with 2-arms, then Crimpd 10s hangs on BM2K central slot.  -1kg L -3kg R. 6mm BW+12kg. Saxonbar to 86kg and a   attempt at 89kg but only got it to knee height.  

T – 55min CX ride.

F – 12kg assisted 1-armers followed by warm-up with 2-arms, then Crimpd 10s hangs on RA pocket mimics.  BW-2kg. 6mm BW+15kg.

S – Nowt

S – 12kg assisted 1-armers followed by warm-up with 2-arms, then Crimpd 10s hangs on BM2K central slot.  -1kg L -2kg R.  Saxonbar to 90kg (best effort this year and 1kg short of a PB) and then 7/3/6/1 40% aerocap repeaters. 

My week was an odd one.  Away at weekend, but out with Ian on Monday to Chee Tor.  Great to get back there - at least 25 years and maybe a lot more.  Bad back was a bit inhibiting, but gradually settled in to following Ian - Alfresco (an absolute field), Meditation (felt hard) and Approaching, on which Ian did brilliantly.  I found it hard in a couple of places, but probably found an easier way across the traverse.  Came down thinking I am a long way off.

Wed went to Penmaenhead with Rick and did a few nice things, but still not moving well.  Oh well, it will come if I persevere!

Work on other days so no training other than a 5 km run that included a bit of speed work.

No, sadly not.  That kind of steepness was beyond my trad skill set when I was an undergrad.  (And then cheddar got rebolted and I concentrated on there instead).

However, it did strike me as one of the remaining routes at Avon with aid points and a worthy challenge...

I'm down that way a bit this summer - might take a look if Steve hasn't nipped up it by then!

That's set the cat amongst the Pigeon's Cave users...😂

What did you think of Penmaenhead? I noticed you did a lot of routes so not sure if that means you enjoyed it or so you didn’t have to go back! We met some HK climbers there eulogising about the view!!

It will. I fee like things have only just clicked for me this last week. It feels very late in the season but there's still July - Sept and maybe some of October to be getting out. Plenty of time yet. Just keep nudging yourself along.

I had a look and its not for me.

I struggle with that steepness on good holds, but this is finger locks in a crack that doesn't fit my big fingers.

Probably your thing , come down!

I've got skinny fingers, maybe that'll help! Was it a nightmare to work?

Its always tricky at the angle, but we can make it work 

Exciting! I'll give you a shout when I'm down over the summer holidays.

Thanks as always for your thoughtful input.

Yes!  We got a couple of routes in at Shorn Cliff with another outing planned this evening.  A great human being, and the kind of belayer who knock half a grade off everything.

Last week was a funny one -- a couple of good days out, but not much time to fit anything else in apart from some flexibility routines from the crimpd app.  No running, but the walking in to Shorn Cliff a couple of times is good for general fitness!

Mon -- Pull ups: 2 shy of 3 x 10.  (Still sore from last week's pyramid!)

Tue -- Upper body mobility.

Wed -- Hip + leg flexibility.

Thu -- To Shorn Cliff.  Met up with Lee before the evening GMC meet.  I led Emotional Dyslexia (HVS 5a) and seconded Touch the Fire (E2 5c).  A good session for my confidence, and I'm looking forward to going back to lead the E2.

Fri -- Pull ups: 3 x 10.

Sat -- Forearm mobility, active hip mobility.

Sun -- Back to Shorn Cliff.  Six routes, including a couple more on my hitlist: Tigers Don't Cry (HVS 5b) and Organ Grinder (HVS 5a).  I was dragged up Tigers in my first summer of climbing four years ago and thought it was really polished and a total slog.  Barely noticed the polish today, and really enjoyed the whole thing.

Mid-year review:

I had three goals at the start of the year...

• Trad: become a well-rounded HVS leader.  I've ticked off 10 of the 23 routes on my 2023 ticklist, having done a few extra routes away from my local crags.  Almost all the climbing has been well within my capabilities, I've got increasing confidence in gear placement, ropework, route-reading etc, and I'm building up a good group of partners to climb with.  Status: on track.
• Indoors: become competent at redpointing 7a at my local wall.  I've climbed 3 routes at 7a, and only one of them was later downgraded!  I'm not climbing indoors much at the moment, but I expect to return to this later in the year.  Status: not a very well-defined goal.  Let's put a number on it: I'm going to aim for 5 more 7a redpoints by the end of the year.
• Running: run 1000km.  Status: Strava says I've run 417km so far, so I'm a bit off the pace.  I plan to rectify this during family holidays in the summer.

I've been a few times before and think it is pretty decent really.  I hadn't done anything on Expressway Wall until this visit and still have plenty to do.  Slightly limited as Rick tired quickly - much of it is steep!

Thanks - it changed yesterday so an upward trajectory now!

Cheers Derek. Busy life week but managed to grab 3 short sharp sessions which were pretty good quality.

Mon

Core & Antags

• Push-ups 10x 15
• Kneeling Ab Wheel Rollout 10x 10

Wed

Fingers & OAPU

• OA Hang 25mm 6x 7s (91%BW)
• OA Lockoffs 3x 3 at Top/90/120 (91%BW)

Thu

Wall

• Volume session on the 40deg woody
• 75 Pull-ups over numerous sets
• New one for me…Standing Ab Wheel Rollouts with assistance bands over a pullup bar and around my hips (3x 3). One of those where you hope nobody’s watching but actually felt quite effective in training for a full Standing Ab Wheel Rollout.

Family round this weekend so back up to 83kg (+1.5kg). I’ve bounced between 80-83kg for the last 12weeks so need a bit more discipline to finally go sub-80!

Cheers Derek, a controlled measured approach can get a bit boring  However had a good week of consolidating the post injury progress.

Monday, 0.5k lunchtime swim and 6k evening run

Tuesday, 0.5k lunchtime swim and 6k evening run

Wednesday, 0.5k lunchtime swim

Thursday, 0.5k lunchtime swim and stretch class

Friday, 0.5k lunchtime swim and 5k evening walk/run with the wife

Saturday, rest/taxi day

Sunday, 5k evening walk/run with the wife in the morning and 1k swim in the afternoon

Great progress on the goals inglesp!  Like the refinements

Thanks for the excellent statting Derek.

STG - 5k - 30 mins

MTG - 10k 1 hour

LTG - Come up with better goals!

Rest all week apart from:

S - 1.2m run

Lots of life stuff got in the way.  Motivation was quite low as well.  Did a lot of gardening (more like jungle bashing tbh) on Saturday, so that's out of the way for a while hopefully.  Fingers crossed next week will be better.

Have you got round to Klute and Sinew yet? 

Also there's some great HVSes on the Gower, which I appreciate is a bit more of a trek, but well worth it.

Sinew: yes, lovely route and I found it easier than Fibre next door.  Klute: planning to climb this tomorrow.

Let me know if you're ever in the area and want to climb!

I loved Sinew as well.  Think it was the first long HVS I ever seconded.  Klute is good as well, bit stiff maybe, but nice climbing.

Yeah, we should do something together someday.

Thanks as ever, Derek. Hope you’re well and getting into a groove for the rest of the summer and the autumn.

Here I am working hard to convince myself to apply myself to indoor climbing this winter and you have come along with another reason not to bother!

Please don’t be put off by my overcritical musings! Just this morning two sequences from the trip flashed up in front of my eyes where I think I can say that wall & rock climbing came together. How curious – without your jesting I probably would’ve remained stuck on the negative like a limpet on a rock. The inverted world of ‘critical’ / negative first, appreciation second, whereby all too often (OK, almost always) the appreciation goes under or is plainly neglected. Time to turn the tables…thanks for the prod!
However that may be – one thing is certain: I’m looking forward to your weekly postings from the climbing wall over winter

Mon: stretching.
Tue: hang board session: trying out mixed hangs…rounded off with pullups on the jugs (not full, two-thirds), 2 sets of 8-6-4-2 (is this a pyramid?)
Wed: wall, Thalkirchen: 5c, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 6c+/7a (twice on top rope); felt awful at first, very much still in holiday mode, as if I was recuperating down at the beach (if only)… ‘climbing’ body got into gear only on the hard route and it went surprisingly well. Definitely a possible lead project
Thu: hang board session: mixed hangs & 2 sets of the pullup ‘pyramid’
Fri: wall, Thalkirchen: 5c, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b, 6c, 6b, 6c+/7a (route from Wed on lead), 6c+/7a (twice, clipping out on tope rope), 6b: after a slow start a good session, for part of it in a threesome, which I enjoyed. Lead attempt went well, close to a tick, and the other 6c+/7a also felt doable…
Sat: household duties – stretching
Sun: walk / hike in the Chiemgau. Scorching but lovely day...

Mini plan for the four weeks to the end of July: 8 x mixed hangs / pullups; 4 x core routine; 4 x flexibility; 4 x legs/lower body (definitely a challenge given the trip to Switzerland).

Note on the hangs: just before going away I’d played around with offset holds and decided this was a way forward. Get back and ep. 132 of Hooper’s Beta is on this method…such a timely coincidence cannot be left fallow.

https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/this-old-school-hangboard-method-yields...

Wishing everyone a good weekend,

Paul

Cheers Derek. Thanks for your work again. It really, really is much appreciated.

Yes a good week for me thanks. I feel like I'm finally getting to where I'd like to be.

No big trips away due to the weather. High mountain crags will be out for a while I think. We've got a Lakes wedding and a couple of club meets over the next few weeks so I think we'll be staying closer to home for a while.

I'm keen to hear about your good week. 

M - Gym - good session 24 sets over 6 exercises. Gave myself DOMS for 4 days with weighted cossack squats.

30 mins on the wall at Lancaster

T - Nothing - tired

W - Nothing - tired

T - Nothing - tired

F - Fully rested went back to Raven Scar South. Warmed up, did some fall practice tried to onsight a 7b. Failed quite quickly. Went back up it clip to clip. Send go - I was far too casual with a heel hook after the crux and suddenly found myself dangling. It then started to rain. Bugger!

S - Shortish Wainwright bagging. 6km with 600m of ascent.

S - Back to Rave Scar as we both had routes set up to tick. Rainy afternoon so we arrived at the crag at 9am. by 10 we'd both ticked and I then did another 7a+ and 6c+ and went to our favourite cafe in Lancaster for lunch.

The mid week energy slump has been noted and I've taken this week as pretty much a rest week.

Thanks for the Stats Derek

I'm just getting in there late again. STG - post earlier next week

On my other STG. I have completed the 4 different crags. So im increasing this to 10.

Eating wise I have defiantly had more control in work but I still could eat more fruit and veg so that's the next step.

M - Met up with a friend who doesn't climb much no more. Seconded Snoozin' Suzie (VD) and then led Matchstick Man (HVS 5a) which turned out to be a really good route. 

T - Really long day in work

W - Few routes at taffs wells west. Highlight was onsighting Bitter End (6c). Tried Bristol Beat (7a) at the end of the day but was too tired to pull through. I think if I come fresh I might be able to do it.

T - Met up Inglesp at Shorncliff. Really good few climbs together. Solid climber who trusts his feet on really small holds and has much better technique than me. Also managed to get out agin this week to tick some more quality routes. Climbed Touch the Fire (E2 5c), seconded Night Rider (HS 4b) and then Green Meanie (E3 5c)

F - Yoga and push ups.

S - Went to Pembroke. really easy day at Saddle head

S - St Govans, unfortunately I had some things pop up and had to leave early. ClimbedRockfax-a-Block (HVS 5a) no way is this HVS. This was the first time I've ever had to take a rest on the rope. first half of the route was really wet and it was overhanging all the way with no rests. I've climbed easier e2's. Or maybe I just wasn't used to the style or not climbing very well. Still, defiantly going back as soon as I can.

Lee