UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_851-7616...

Another entertaining week with a lot of exchanges going on across the thread.  Having had months of people responding in a fairly predictable order, this week was all over the place!

Tyler:  ‘Setting the bar for this at 6C’ – that’s a fairly high bar for ‘classic’, but your game, so your rules.  From week 849 - I was pleased to flash The Mad Hatter (6c+) (possibly my first since moving to Wales?), so I’d say you are being hard on yourself with your ‘I’ve still not managed a first go 6c+’ or am I missing something?  Given that most sessions seem to end up with a fair bit of pain which must be limiting on lots of levels, the progress is pretty strong really.

The Refrain sounds a bit tough and I struggle to imagine a 7b clip!  Must be close now though?  Isn’t Mr Chips a notoriously crimpy thing on an already notoriously crimpy crag?  Hasn’t one of the original crimps broken to leave things even more painful than previously?  Good to be chipping away at the unfinished business list on NWL though.  Re after school club coming to an end, I am likely to be over during the day over the next few weeks and don’t mind hanging around for the after work slot if you need ropes holding for something – I will let you know if I am in the area.

The Pinnacle Ridge thing sounds entertaining and an excellent tick after such a long time!

Small Step:  Good to hear that you have a food list on the go.  My sister had quite a few food sensitivities and used the book by Hanna Sillitoe (Skin Healing Expert) as a guide.  I think the book is quite entertaining as Hanna had quite a background in drugs and alcohol, before applying herself to self-cure!

Some really strong wall sessions appearing in your reports with 7a+ featuring each visit.  There has definitely been a decent progression across the year from applying yourself pretty consistently to wall climbing.  Interesting to see how the top rope on Friday changed so much between first and second go – I really must try working something to see the difference as pretty much everything I do is first go!

I think zigs are your  8,6,4,2 pattern of pull ups.  If so, then you are putting together 60 pull ups across your 3 zig pattern, so quite a volume.  Good to see the mixed hangs in there as well. 

Yes, probably worth planning your training around your outdoor climbing opportunities, especially as these come in blocks.

Ally Smith:  Two posts in a row last week – clearly time you were back in the office!  Re my miscalculated weight, ‘only’ 170%, which is much less impressive of course! 😉  Great to see that you took my advice to heart with you video clip on Whatsapp – bear in mind that this gives a sort of automatic progression plan to your weighted hangs!

A general reflection – the exercise routine you are maintaining is really positive as it is now weeks (possibly months?) since you have managed to get out on something.  Keeping the routines going at the intensity you are is showing some significant motivation.  Hopefully, you’ll get some opportunities to use all these gains at some point.

Great to see the state of play with the 2023 goals.  Overall, this gooks like steady progress, which considering how your climbing year has been set aside, is surprising.  I think you’ve been at (certainly close to) PBs on many of your training weights as well, so there is some obvious payback from (more) time in the gym!  You are likely to get a chance at goal 3 and 5 before the year is out.  I’ll be interested in seeing the foot-on campus board take shape as putting one together is on my project list as well.

AlanLittle:  Work continues to be a significant factor in your plan – this week preventing a wall visit.  The things we have to do to satisfy those who pay the bills!  Anyway, glad that it is positive stuff rather than the stressful experience from earlier this year.

The Freimann visit looked productive with the double 6c+s being achieved.  This is a pretty clear indicator of good progress from investing the time in the walls over the year and similar gains are being seen by Small Step.  Excellent stuff as the rest of the routes completed make a strong set.

Fitting the bike rides in around conferences sounds like a great way of making the day productive on at least one level!  A pleasant way of incorporating exercise into the everyday routine – I can’t imagine being able to do this for even my shortest commutes, but maybe I’m just not imaginative enough.

A shame to have a planned day out cancelled.  I always find this really frustrating as my time outside is precious and has to be fitted in around work and weather, so I have extended my network to the point where there is nearly always someone available!  The downside is that I never think to go off for a day by myself now.

Ian Parnell:   As remarked to Small Step, my sister had rosacea fairly badly (and other problems), but has got good control without meds now.  Maybe worth a look?

Yes, those long drives and late nights will have an impact on Monday Club!

Good progression across those block lifts.  That’s a long set with a lot of lifting so not surprised that pull ups were difficult immediately after!  I am going to get some blocks as I need to change the stimulus and get much more variety into my training plan for Autumn.  Slopers are hard and I think you said your new blocks are harder than the fingerboard slopes.  Good progress by the end of the week on these.

For some reason, I have never been on Quietus, but hearing your report has made me quite pleased about that!  Good research (?) with your Roaches outing.  A bit of a grit themed week from you, which is odd for July!

Somerset Swede Basher:  Nearly there with the school term so soon you’ll be a lot more flexible with getting out.

Another one who is quietly keeping visits to the wall going with good effect.  Autobelay mileage is probably something I could consider as a training aid.  I am slowly working my way around to including the wall in the winter season plans.  Like you, I do climb down as well as it adds to the benefit, though I suppose a quick descent then back on is equally effective.

Good to put a nemesis route to bed and in decent style.  Having been rained off, impressed that you put a session in on return. 

I haven’t yet put a kilometre together at under 5 mins, so seeing you do seven at that pace is humbling.  I have managed four at under 6 mins per km, so I am going to go under 30 mins for 5 km soon.  Anyway, on my patented age-adjustment handicap system, you are in reality choking on my dust and I can hardly see you in the rear-view mirrors…😉  Good bike ride and a somewhat more typical redpoint at the Cornice.  It must be getting damp by now surely?

Inglesp:  An interesting bit of analysis about your falls.  I’d think that given your pull up strength – fairly quick progression to a pyramid to ten – you should have a lot of lock off capacity in reserve, so ought to have time to work out your next moves in such situations (?).  I suppose the other point is that when people get a bit pressed, the focus is often shifted to ‘where’s the next handhold’, whereas, things are nearly always easy when feet are better deployed.

A fairly quiet week though the Yat outing sounds pleasant.  Great to see you hit the 100 pull ups – a good indicator of success and plenty of basic strength there.  What’s next on the plan?

Biscuit:  Very good to hear that you are putting in a shift on the dancefloor.  Take it steady at first (wedding music usually) and soon you will be able to cope with my youngest daughter’s very loud house sets at House Now Brown Cow.  As well as bleeding ears, these are something of an intensive fully body workout. 

Upper crag at Giggleswick.  That brings back memories from when it was more or less the only bit developed!  It has some really decent routes as well – Mutton Dagger for one.  I haven’t been since the early 80s, but stumbled past last year on my way between sectors on the bolted bits.  Someone was shunting stuff and cleaning bits.

Good effort on Phantom Zone!  You are going well on sport stuff to be taking on 7c, which makes it all the more surprising that you didn’t seek out Biscuit Face (7b) at Lighthouse when you were on the adjacent sector.  Anyway, cooler (and significantly wetter) conditions have arrived, so perhaps you have got back to it?

Tom Green:   Indeed, Cratcliffe as a training ground for ‘French free’!  Probably quite good for the Fissure Brown as well.  It is amazing how tiring aid climbing is if you haven’t been practicing much!

That’s a good recommendation for Porth Ysgo, which does look brilliant in photos and some decent problems completed.  There is a lot listed there and the place is dripping with stars.  It sounds like there is plenty to keep a person occupied for a long while, so not a bad thing to include on a family holiday.  I must check it out and might get a chance in August when I spend a few days in Wales with grandkids. 

Plenty of trail mileage – well up on your usual weekly average – which is a good return for a holiday week.  Also good to see a second fit clubber raving at a wedding- I’m assuming it wasn’t the same one as Biscuit, but it’s possible.

Is the tapering with the Alps in mind?  Given all the weighted hill walks on the plan, I’d assume that was the immediate goal.

In reply to Derek Furze:

part two

Ross Barker: So, foot-on campusing is ‘rather unpleasant’!  That does explain why not many people seem to keep it up through a training cycle.

Loads of rehab on your week with the light hangs and ice bath routine – four sessions of them I think, though some were followed by Moonboard stuff which might have unpicked the good work!  Still. Tip splitter sounds worth it.

Great to see a weekend trip to Pembroke, which is the sort of thing I used to do before I realised how much of my life was spent in the car!  I don’t know Kato Zawn, but have been to Barcud and I think Barrel Zawn is really close to that.  Some nice rock in that area.   A long way to go to be put off climbing by rough seas though, so great that you all got stuff done on the Sunday.  The swell sounds like it makes things fairly challenging though!

Liam P:  ‘Confident I can go sub 80kg soon’!  At which point, there will be a fit club party!

A lot of training across your week with a fair range of stuff included!   Managing 90 minutes on a 40deg woody is pretty impressive to start the week, and then to include campus board work and your hanging wipers is very good.  As you note, that perhaps took a lot out of you for later in the week.

Good session on the one-arm work as well and I note that you have stepped up to 20mm!  I struggle on jugs, but don’t currently use assistance.

Great to see plenty of antagonistic work, particularly important if you are putting a lot of loads through your elbows.  180 press ups is going some – I used to do set of 30, but it gets so boring!  Nowadays I am happy with doing plenty between other exercises, but rarely do more than 15 in a set.  Great to see the hanging wipers showing such strong form.

SteveJC94:  My shoulder seems fine – it was just an odd move creating a twinge.  That said, I’m a long way from peaking I think!

Quite a lot of training done including the wall visits with the mileage.  Going well on plastic to put that sequence together.  A pretty strong session on the Moon board as well, so it is coming together really well.  A shame you didn’t manage to get back to your project, but weather hasn’t been at all helpful this month.  I’ve been out, but mostly had to travel for weather and often had threatening conditions.  You’ll be wanting to get an update on Cornice conditions no doubt!

Good to see a lot of work on flexibility and mobility.  I’d be interested in what regime you are following for some of this stuff.

Randy:  Continued good work on the one arm pull up programme – steady progression though I guess that last 11% is going to be a real battle.  Added to that is that it will possibly involve a change in technique s the moment draws close.  The lock offs are also looking strong and now getting pretty close to bodyweight.  As you note, surprising the difference a bit less assistance makes.

Some really positive running progress as well – clearly you are keen on this and it shows.  A 1.36 half marathon is great at this stage of training and the plans to increase your distances look ideal in terms of keeping a marathon as a possibility.  Good to hear that the finger is improving, though still some work to do – very sensible to stick to stuff that doesn’t aggravate the problem.

Steve Claw:  Taking an official deload week obviously!  Excellent to see that the prospecting bug still operates when you are out of area with work!  ;Many 100’s of metres abseiled and jugged’ is a pretty decent workout one way or another and good that it seems to have been thoroughly productive.  I do remember a wet Sunday scouring Spion Kop in pouring rain and cleaning lines up.  Before I could get back there (work), Martin Crocker had stepped in and done the routes!

Hope you’ll be reporting more normally next week!

Mattrm: Good to see consistency again – now a few weeks with regular runs appearing though you are still chasing the elusive 5 km!  I started back this year with a couple of weeks of shorter runs and it definitely helped to get me going again.  Are you changing the pace of these or is everything just steady?  I’ve started to apply Ian’s approach of doing pace work more consistently and most runs now include a bit of pace changing and recovery.

Re the diet – have you been reading Liam’s posts?!  Or my own experience?!  I started out with a short-term plan (one month) and here I am 18 months down the track still maintaining a changed pattern of eating (hesitate to call it a diet).  Anyway, some good results across the group with this, so you’ve got some benchmarks to support you.

Great to see that climbing was on the plan and shame that it didn’t come off.  Keep trying!

AJM:  I think sweaty conditions makes more difference that we sometimes think.  Certainly, some of the very hot days a month back were associated with inexplicably poor outcomes for me.  It does affect the security of holds, but it is just generally debilitating anyway, so anything physical is bound to be impacted.  Combine that with polished limestone quarries and the result is probably to be expected.

Glad to see that microAJM has recovered from being taken out of Dorset, though a bit more than your average bug by the sound of it.  Wood splitting – favoured training regime of Tyler and possibly the cause of his persistent elbow issues!

You’ve used up a deload card, so back on it next week!

The Sheep:  Hope you are doing okay and managing to keep some sort of exercise going?  See you when you are ready to get back on with things.

Climbthatpitch:  Saw your post about Peak District climbing, but already have plans for Monday and Wednesday (North Wales) and working Tuesday!  I think Ian has been in touch re Chee Tor?

I haven’t seen a post this week, but you may well be on the road.  If one comes in later, I will tack on a response!  Hope you get some Peak classics done.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Busy later, so an earlier post than usual...

A better week from me in some respects as met most targets...

Mon - base one; max hangs on slopes at 11.2, 12.3, 13.4 and 14.5 kg; 4x7 BW pull ups; 4x12 push ups; 4x12 reverse curls at 9.2kg and 4 sets of stretches.  4 km run with each km under 6 mins.  Good as I had a lot of work on.

Tues - Away with work, but managed base two; 3 sets of five weighted pull ups at 9, 10.1 and 11.2.  Assisted one-arm pull ups 3 sets of 2 each side; One arm hangs 3x5 secs per side.  3 sets of shoulder raises.

Wed - very windy outing to Pinfold.  Conditions a bit poor.  Six routes all trad.  Avoided the issue as it was wet.  Still love the area, but haven't yet found the climbing that good - nice, but all a bit loose and unloved.  The sport stuff suffers from starting at the top of my paygrade.  Yet to try Craig Arthur - next visit perhaps.

Thurs - max hangs on slopes at 11.3, 13.4, 14.6 and 15.7 kg.  4x8 BW pull ups; 4 x10 push ups.  4km slow run with partner - good as had knee twinge from Pinfold.  4x12 reverse curls and stretches.

Fri - 3 sets of 4 weighted at 11.2 kg - I was tired.  wrist roller 3x5 at 4.6kg.  OAPU 3x2 assisted as Tuesday.  No one arm hangs.

Only one drizzly, windy day out, but better consistency with training.  Trad mileage was good fun.  Did a route where the crucial thread was somewhat poor.  Logbooks recorded it as unbelievably manky in 2002!  Despite having to garden as I climbed, managed to press on (lowering off it might have been tricky)!

Planning a similar week this week, but climbing twice.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Tyler - over to Llandudno area Monday and Wednesday afternoon / evening.  Shout if you want to get a belay on something.  I will let you know exact plans as they unfold.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Afternoon all.

A week of two halves for me. Started quite good, but the latter half have been quite shit for the most part. Didn't feel like getting out most of the time, and wasn't able to when I felt like it.

Last Week:

M - Rest.

T - Weigh-in at 78.4kg. AM very light hangs. Evening Moonboard. Very steady warmup meant the finger felt pretty good on the whole. Made a new cruxy one, "Feign", then had a few good goes on "Michi Cavallo", friendly on the finger but fired off the holds a few times as it was sweaty and the holds haven't been properly cleaned in yonks. Looks promising though.

W - AM and PM very light hangs. Ice baths before bed.

Onwards - Bugger all, unless being irritable and short-tempered counts for something.

Next Week:

No bloody clue.

Goals:

Try and have a better week than last week.

Rehab left index thing.

Improve ability on tiny edges.

Work on PE.

Oberth Effect Proj.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks for the excellent statting Derek.

Weight - 12st 7lbs

STG - 5k - 30 mins

MTG - 10k 1 hour

LTG - Come up with better goals!

M - Rest

T - 1.2m run

W - 5k run - 37:25

T - S - Rest

S - 4m walk, 250m ascent

Running distance - 7km

Pretty good week all in.  Well actually very good really.  Total distance of 7km and actually got the 5k in properly.  Thankfully the nettle field mid run has been strimmed, which probably knocked 30 seconds off the run.  Pace wise, I've been sticking to very steady runs, just concentrating on getting out there and staying un-injured.  The 5k definitely epitomised that.  I was just focusing on getting round and enjoying it.  I had plenty left in the tank by the end.  But it was a lovely run down by the river and through the meadows.  Beautiful weather as well.

Busy weekend as it was my Son's birthday party.  My wife has managed to put her back out quite badly, so it was nice that she's better now so we could get out for a family walk today.  Lovely little walk around Skirrid.  Got a good stretch on the ascent, then doubled back to repeat half of it with the family.

Less said about the diet the better.  But I've got a plan and I do have a copy of The Full Diet.  I did have some success with Keto a while back, so I'm trying that again.

Hopefully get down the wall next week.  I'll keep up the 5k as well.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek, yep, just another week to go. Both myself and Mrs Swede are on our knees and crawling to the end but the holiday is in sight!

Mon. Auto belay session. 4x10mins on 10mins off. 6bs for everything. 3x10 press ups.

Tues. 8km walk for work during the day. 6 sets of repeaters, 5x5 pull ups and 3x10 press ups in the eve 

Wed. 8km walk for work during the day, 11km run out in the Peak in the eve 

Thurs. Another aero session fighting the dark forces of pump down the wall. 6bs for the first two sets then a 6b+ which was much harder. Last set up a 6c and down 6a+ as it was the only auto belay available. 3x10 press ups.

Fri-sun. Full of cold and 3 children's parties to attend, argh.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek. We do like a good bit of wedding dancing. I used to dance but there's no classes or events near us that we'd like to do, and we like to be in bed early.....

I did see Biscuit Face and it's very much on the list. I thought it was on the same buttress but it was over the way and we had got stuck into the routes next to sticky mix.

The weather has confused matters this week for sure.

M - Early gym session focussed on my left hip which is giving me a bit of grief lately.

30 mins on the wall (3x10mins) with a mix of 6a and 6b. Felt good.

T - 30min run. Nice and flat 6km.

Back to training active grips on the 30 degree woody. 5 x 1 min on the board picking the worst holds I could so I have to squeeze the life out of them. Will up this next week and build back up to 10.

W - Repeat of gym session

T - 30 min run again. 5km this time.

F - The weather was 50/50. We decided to go to the wall. It stayed dry until 4pm. A few routes done, more for fun than training, up to 7a+. Trying to keep something in reserve so it wouldn't spoil Sunday.

S - Rest. Ended up drinking too much wine + gins and tonic. 

S - Weather 50/50 but we went for it. We got wet, cold, blown over (but it dried us off), wet again then really hot. It turned into a lovely day as we left......

Due to feeling a bit under par (see above re wine and gin) I wasn't expecting a great result and didn't get one. I have got all the beta sorted now and need to find some way to warm up for it that's not on the route itself as it is very skin intensive. Or maybe tape up for the warm ups.

Fingers crossed for next weekend. It'll be a big effort if I do get it but I'm quietly optimistic. Experience shows my optimism is not always well judged

In reply to Derek Furze:

It won't be easy, but i also don't need to improve by 11% as i am would be more than happy with doing one proper one-armer. Doing multiple ones would be a goal for next week

Recap last week:

Mon: Assisted One-Arm-Pullups at 89% BW, right arm: 3, 2.5, 1.5 left arm: 3, 2.5, 2.5.  Assisted lockoffs, 150°: 92,5% BW 4-6s; 96% BW, 120°,90° and 45°: 6s-12s. Fingerboard repeaters: 4x6x7,3 at 95% BW on 20mm egde.  

Tues: Steady run 50 minutes, 4:44/km, 147 HR (165 max), brutal conditions with 35° degrees, heart rate noticeably higher and was complete empty afterwards

Wed: Steady run 60 minutes, 4:42/km; 140 HR (152 max), max better conditions, 26° and cloudy, somehow managed to recover from yesterday and felt quite ok

Thurs: Assisted One-Arm-Pullups at 89% BW, right arm: 3, 3, 2.5 left arm: 3, 2.5, 2.5.  Assisted lockoffs, 150°: 92,5% BW 7-8s; 96% BW, 120°,90° and 45°: 6s-14s. Fingerboard repeaters: 4x6x7,3 at 95% BW on 20mm egde, 20 lunges, 20 bodyweight squats, 50 pushups, felt stronger than last session, though i did not manage 3 reps with my left arm, but probably more a coordination problem as lockoffs felt stronger

Fri: Fartlek run: 5,3,5,3,2,1,1 minutes hard with 1:30 - 3:00 minutes recover, 3:40-3:50/km pace for the longer interval and 3:20-3:30 pace for the 1 minute intervals, overall including the rest still 4:06/km pace for around 8km , felt hard but manageable, heart rate 170-186, conditions were ok with 27° but not great

Sat: Well earned rest da

Sun: Long run, 1:30 4:44/km, 140 HR (147 max), as expected still a little bit tired from friday's session, but nevertheless still had something left in the tank at the end 

Slow but steady progress with the one-armers. Hard to say how much is missing, but i am optimistic that it should be possible during this year. Intermediate goal would be during 3 reps at 93% BW. If i reach that i think i am in a good position to really attack it, reduce the reps to doubles and singles and increase the intensity.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Are you alright mate?  That's not like you.  I'm at Penmaenhead with some mates tomorrow afternoon evening if you want to mess about on ropes 

In reply to Derek Furze:

Yeah, I'm alright thanks (and thanks also to those who PM'd). Slightly challenging times but objectively not awful, just quite inconvenient. I happened upon the FC post at peak-pissed-off-ness, and it seems to have had a noticeable effect on my entry! Not that it's particularly inaccurate, mind.

Would love to join you but unfortunately I'm working and wouldn't be able to get there with enough time left in the day.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thank you Derek,

Unfortunately another week with not much to report.

I was physically wrecked from the week working away, and other parts of the elbows are hurting as well, from over working.  Elbows are clearly my "Achilles" 

The weather has been all over the place this week, so even when I have tried to get stuff done its not working out.

I did manage to clean up another 2 routes, 1 of which is definitely in the project zone for difficulty. Again its quite a workout cleaning and preparing overhanging route.  When we use expansions you can work top down and pull yourself in, but in this instance we need to use glue ins, so it was a whole day hanging in space and a full on core workout.  I have a couple of Petzl removable bolts that are good for this, as they work in the same hole, and can be removed before gluing.

I have a few too many projects at the moment and not enough energy to do them all.

Weight is low (72kg/ 11st6 at 6ft2) and stabilised at this level by going even lower carb and high protein, but I suspect that might not be a good thing long term and could be effecting my energy levels.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Another week where I feel I'm letting the side down slightly with the bike making up 100% of my outdoor activity. But frankly the heat & humidity at the moment are are a huge disincentive to trying to go climbing: I've never coped well with conditions like that. And I have a lot of other stuff on at the moment and some major family commitments coming up in August, so I've pretty much resigned myself to be in a training phase in order to Crush Everything Come Autumn.

STG: tick any of my local long term projects
MTG: tick my first 7a for two years
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823
LTG: Winter 24 or 25 - do an actual off piste ski tour.

M: A sweaty hour on the bike in the woods
    Half an hour stretching

T: Wall, Thalkirchen kilterboard. A better session than last time despite the heat and apart from a couple of slips caused by shoe rubber melting off holds. Got some links on the proj at 25°, and experimented with at least holding positions on steeper angles.
    Deadlift 3x3x90, face pulls, ring supports & false grip hangs
    Bike 45 minutes there & back

W: Grease the Groove bodyweight pullups between shirts while ironing

T: Bike 1½ hours in the woods. Some surprisingly big trees down from the recent thunderstorms

F: Wall, Thalkirchen kilterboard. This time the heat did get the better of me - tried to do a moderate volume session, but ran out of gas/motivation/bodily fluids before I got through much volume. 
    Rounded off with a few sets of (light) weighted pullups, shoulder presses and face pulls
    Bike one hour wall & back plus local errands
S: 
S: Wall, Freimann Sunday Afternoon Crew moved to Thalkirchen. Adam Ondra has a video on youtube where he shows his climbing sauna in which he trained for summer conditions in Tokyo. Today was like that - but I still managed to get a surprisingly decent amount of moderate mileage in. 5b 6a+ 6b 6c (dnf) 6b 6b 6b 6b
    45 minutes bike there & back

@Randy does Element have air conditioning? I may have to consider switching my bouldering venue for the duration of the heatwave.
 

In reply to AlanLittle:

Yes, not a very agressive one, but they do cool it down to a bearable temperature imo. 

In reply to Derek Furze:

yes boss!

Took until midweek before I was back on an even keel again, but had a good end to the week and weekend.

Wednesday - stretching. First time in ages. Feeling stiff.

Thursday - wall. Also first time in ages. A fairly decent session, I tried hard on some things, need to return with some shoes that aren’t worn out slippers for a few key heel hooks.

Saturday - wall again. Brought some Velcro shoes and the first heel dependent project went down quickly. The second, where I’m not even sure the heel ought to be that hard, I completely lost the trick of the first move. Another project ticked by way of consolation though, which I had also tried and failed on on Thursday. Different feet on the clock move made all the difference. I also did a bunch of the easier problems on the comp wall. And I ran into some friends I hadn’t seen for ages. Overall, a very good session.

Sunday - Portland. Feeling slightly jaded as to the roped options open to us for a family faff day, we opted for bouldering at Blacknor Fort. This was mostly fairly easy problems, but I did a couple of genuinely really nice 5s. Since that wasn’t necessarily that heavy a day, in the evening I topped it off with a bit more stretching.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Hi all. Thanks for statting, Derek.

Yep, tapering is with a view to hitting the alps. Just hope this heatwave doesn't come in too hot or too soon... I could do with the western alps not melting and falling down over the next fortnight... I have plan Bs if that does happen, but I would really, really like a crack at Plan A!

Week 28:

A totally naff week... partly because I hate tapering weeks and partly due to a few unforseen circumstances interfering with plans a bit.

M: Prehab.

T: Trail run. 9.1km, 282m vert, 5:35/km. Unsatisfying run. Muggy. Stung by a wasp.

W: Prehab.

T: Rest.

F: Core. 

S: Trail run. 13.9km, 345m vert, 5:41/km. Changed route halfway through when a thunderstorm hit as didn't fancy being the highest point on the moors!

S: Rest.

Week 29:

M: Rest.

T: Prehab.

W: Climbing.

T: Climbing.

F: Climbing.

S: Rest.

S: Rest.

STG (End June):

Two routes off my alpine bucket list.

MTG:

Can't really see past the STG at the moment! Will come up with some new goals, including some BHAG/Week 900 goals at some point though...

In reply to Derek Furze:

I’m continuing to refuse to accept reality so, in my head, there are trad routes I aspire to on-sight with cruxes up to 6B+ therefore anything up to 6C doesn’t count as a boulder problem. Expect U turns on both these things soon.

I’d forgotten that but still I can’t claim any progress this year as it turns out I did one last year anyway (and the year before I did some 7a’s first go in Portland).  

Hostage to fortune klaxon: It’ll go next time…

Yes to all of that, but the small crimps aren’t really the issue, as not much pulling required at that point. 
> I am likely to be over during the day over the next few weeks and don’t mind hanging around for the after work slot if you need ropes holding for something

Thank you for the offer and sorry for disturbing your afternoon, seems I also tried to video call you as well, I panic enough with a voice call!

Absolute shit show of a week but with a possible happy ending but I’ll find out fine way or another next week. 
M: Car broke down and Fi in Dorset with the van

T: Discovered I had my H1 appraisal the next day so spent the evening preparing 

W: Climbing on Crescent Buttress Lighthouse Crags. Managed the two warm ups ok but then added to my unfinished business list. Fingers and elbow very sore

T: Cleaned house in preparation for in-laws visit.

F: Still no sign of car being fixed so forced to find my way to Ramsbottom by public transport after work. Went more smoothly but more expensively than I thought it would. 
S: Spent the day helping son move from one place to another

S: Spent the morning helping son, short walk in the afternoon. Managed a Tim Hortons triple burger and Dim Sum combo dinner so as not to offend the in-laws.

Everything feeling very sore and creaky

This coming week is mostly family related but I’m owed significant brownie points so I don’t expect to be doing any cleaning or moving….

  "A bit of a grit themed week from you, which is odd for July!"

I think July has just been odd as a whole. Both grit sessions were fun changes away from my main goals. I've a possible Pembroke trip next weekend and then a potential day in Devon mid family holiday where I'm hoping to get back on my main goal routes.

Mon – The Depot – long, hard session, Warm Up 5x (green, white, blues, black). Attempt 5 reds topped 3, including one I’d failed on before. 30-degree Woodie, tried 10 problems, topped 3, v close on another 3. Attempted another 6 reds topped 3, last move on another 2.

Tues – Nothing

Wed – The Depot – Warm Up 5x (green, white, blues, black, pink). Attempt 16 reds topped 13, including 4 I’d failed on before.

Thursday- Nothing

Friday – Yves lifts. Lattice block 20mm x 5 each hand, 2min rest. 5kg, 7.5, 10, 12.5, 15, 17.5, 20, 22.5, 25, 27.5, 30, 31.25, 32.5, 33.75 (4 right, 3 left), 32.5 (5 right, 4 left), 32.5 (right 3, left 2). PB session.

Saturday – Home board. Warm up, 8 problems V4-5, set new super fingery project – couldn’t do individual moves.

Sunday – 70 min run, 7+ miles. Out of interest and to break up the plod I tried a quick burst of speed work 4 x ¼ mile with 2 min jog recovery. Surprised although shouldn’t be how hard it was just doing 4 reps average pace about 4.05 kms. Only 5 years ago that was not far off my half marathon pace now I can just about manage a quarter mile!

Reflection - Challenging week with upsetting issues away from climbing. No real rock this week, but managed to have 4 good training sessions, which were helpful to escape into. Highlight however was bird watching this evening; a Night Heron only 30 feet away and 5 Spoonbills. Really lifted the week’s mood. Weight also down 3kg this week to 82kg.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek. 

It's a couple of months since I last touched rock, though I managed to resolve that briefly this week. 

Week 28

M – Nada. Pack and drive to in laws. 

T – Real-rock-pestering. Disgusting weather, so Dugout was the only option. Humid conditions forced me to work out improved beta for Doug (f7A+)/Douglass (f7B+). I repeated both of these, with an extended finish along the top break into Shropshire's Finest (f7B). No addition to difficulty, but nice to do some new moves. I also tried Ross’ problem  Squeezing A Lass (f7B)– good quality addition and doesn’t feel eliminate as the “rules” are obvious.

W – Scratchy throat turned into snot-monster overnight and had trouble sleeping.

T – More of the same. Managed to do F3SHC density lifts (26kg x6 for good measure) and COMPEX core.

F – Snot easing. Crimpd “Forearm conditioning” and hip flexibility sessions.

S – Gripper light aero-cap 7/3/6/1 x20 while simultaneously rocking baby A. 5x 1on/1off plank and 4x30 kettlebell rotations when she nodded off (then she woke up again and I took her out for a 10pm walk…)

S – Lurgy resurgent and took an(other) afternoon snooze.  Good evening stretch watching trashy TV with mk2.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Cheers Derek. Another solid set of stats.

Might be waiting a while as I’ve put another half Kg back on! I have a (wine-club-esque) holiday in 2 weeks so will give up then. Would be nice to nudge under but imagine the impact on my climbing will be negligible.

Yeah finally! I built up to it really slowly, and still take a lot of weight off, but happy to be hanging from it.

Couple of good training sessions and another trad trip to Swanage

Tue

Wall

• 8mm Pull-ups 3x 3
• Board10 on 40deg Woody. 1st half on 6A, 2nd half getting spanked on 7A+
• Standing Ab Wheel Rollout (big assistance band) 3x 10
• Straight Arm Hanging Wipers 3x 20/18/18. Bought some Ankle Weights after this session so will drop the reps and try +0.75kg of weight.

Fri

Fingers, Lockoffs & Antags

• OA Hangs 20mm 6x 6s (79%BW) 
• OA Lockoffs 3x 6s Top/Middle (93%BW)
• Parallette Press-ups 5x 30

Sun

Swanage

• Gusting 30knts so The Ruckle was getting smashed by some big lads. Carried on to Guillemot which was still a bit choppy but managed to navigate our way to the start of Ledgend Direct (HVS 5a). Crux layback crack was covered in Swanage grease so took a bit of up and down to navigate but other than that a great route. Still really rusty on cam sizes which lead to hanging around unnecessarily but a step up from last weeks VS 4c. E1 5b this weekend hopefully.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek, detailed and insightful as ever. 

Good to hear it's on the mend already, shouders can be a nightmare when you tweak them. 

Essentially a lot of hip flexibility as this is a real weakness for me. Box splits, butterfly stretches and pancake reaches seem to do the trick.

Monday

Hip & leg flexibility. Upper body mobility. 

Tuesday

7:3 repeaters @ 72.5% (BW+1kg). 6 sets of 6 reps. Bar shoulder shrugs 5 x 5

Wednesday

10 problems on the board (6B, 6B+, 6C, 6C, 6C+, 6C+, 7A, 7A, 7A+, 7A+).

50-50 mixed intensity laps (half a circuit of 6b into half a circuit of 7a), 4 sets of 4 continuous reps.

Prone Y, Prone T and Low row on the TRX rings. Shoulder press 5 x 5.

Thursday

Upper body mobility

Friday

3 x 10minute ARC sets on the autobelay.

Saturday

Rest

Sunday

Hiding from the showers with an afternoon at Malham. Really gutted to have dropped on the penultimate move on Seventh Aardvark (7b) after not being careful with my left foot placement and having it pop within touching distance of the chains. Didn't rets enough and got blown off the crux on the third tie, by which point it was time to head home - hoping to get it first tie-in next time. 

In reply to Derek Furze:

Hi Derek, thanks for the comments and the tip on Hanna Sillitoe – fully unknown to me. Looks like not just diet changes but lotions & potions also lie in store …

Training week was short, just two days:

Mon: wall, Thalkirchen, steamy conditions, particularly indoors as the last 4-5 meters of a route felt cut off from even the slightest whiff of circulating air…tough going: 5c, 6a+, 6b, 2 x 7a+ (chalk & cheese route, twice on lead), 7a/+ (the tick from the week before), 6b
Tue: stretching & hang board session with 3 x zigs
Wed – Sun: 3 hikes in the rear of Lauterbrunnen valley and the Sefinafurgga. Awesome doesn’t even begin to describe it…the days were framed by rail odysseys, however. Long & tiring days sitting on stationary trains or waiting on platforms…still more than worth it, even just the three days.
 

4-week plan: after week 3: 5/8 x mixed hangs & zigs, 3/4 flexibility, 1/4 core, 1/4 leg / lower body work. As expected nigh impossible with the Switzerland trip in the cycle. See how it goes this week.

Wishing everyone a good week, training-wise and elsewhere in life.