UKC

Morning all, just a reminder that I'll be stepping down as the stats man in a couple weeks, at the turn of the new year. I can't remember if anyone agreed to be next, but here's the invitation/reminder!

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_873-7663...

AlanLittle: That's a really crap bit of luck mate, sorry to hear. Lots of lurgy in general going around at the minute, tis the season. Hopefully it doesn't linger too long or undo any other progress too far.

Somerset swede basher: A rather nice week with plenty of moderate volume. You just be breaking up from work soon (not that the weather will be playing ball!)

Tyler: That's a great week! Weight has been managed by habit alone, and you're challenging yourself on the lead wall. Sounds like you're really getting into a good stride at the moment, keep it up.

AJM: A restful week is understandable, hopefully it did you some good.

Tom Green: Nice work despite the oncoming lurgy, you've done well there. I see there's a lot of possible climbing in this week's plan, did those materialise?

Ian Parnell: That fall at the Depot sounds a bit spooky, hopefully it's just a bump and the shoulder mends quickly. As you reflected, possibly could have been a more restful week, but most of the exercises in the first half weren't particularly high volume, so as long as the intensity wasn't too high you should be okay.

Ally Smith: More hard board scenes as always. Hopefully you find a solution to that dampness, could it just be a case of improving the ventilation around the alcove? The sharp rise in temperature last week wouldn't have helped things, either. Fingers crossed the lurgy doesn't amount to anything.

Ed Booth: Welcome! Anyone else lurking the Fit Club threads would think that Shropshire is a real climbing hub considering all the fuss at the dugout getting back into regular board climbing is a real ace way to keep strength and power topped up, which will come in handy for some of those goals.

mattrm: It's not the week you wanted, but when illness strikes you just have to take it on the chin and do the right thing: rest! Hope it doesn't stick around too long and you'll be back running again before you know it.

Derek Furze: A good week. Calf strain of course is annoying but it sounds like it's not hanging about too long which is nice. Looking forward to see your goals for the new year.

Liam P: Never heard someone be so pleased to have scabby knuckles! A couple of training sessions is better than nowt, and it is getting to that time of year where schedules go out of the window, you gotta squeeze them in when you can! Any dry rock for you this weekend?

Steve Claw: It might not seem like much but two sessions is still a fine week, and the limited volume should be good for the elbows. Are there any specific rehab exercises you could do during warmups or between sessions to help more?

biscuit: Ah that Lancasterwall debacle sure is unfortunate, and annoying considering it's completely out of anyone's control! Good training during the week, and then an ace session on Sunday, nice work! 

SteveJC94: A good week. Not many words, but you don't need them if the sessions speak for themselves! Keep it up.

Randy: Glad the knee is progressing somewhat. Strong training as always, and good to be seeing progress on the fingerboard repeaters too!

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks for the stats Ross. Finally, a week where i am able to report early

Mon: Assisted One-Arm-Pullups @ 90% BW : 2,1,1 Fingerboard Repeaters, 75% BW, 6x12x7,3 with 2 min rest, a little bit worse performance when i tried this the last time this summer, where i managed to do 3,2,2 but that was also after 6 weeks of specific training for assisted one-armers

Tues: L-Sit 2x15s, Handstands, 2x8 Pike Pushups, Bodyweight squat, Lunges, 40 Pushups, 45s V-Situps, 20mm Block Lift Repeaters, 18kg, 6x12,7,3 with 2 min rest. I've decided to experiment a little bit with lifts instead of hangs. 18kg was not limit but felt surpringly hard as this translates to 2 arm hangs @ 50% BW for me which feel super easy

Wed: Rest

Thur: Rest, wanted to do something, but worked very long and was too tired afterwards

Fri: One-Arm-Lockoffs: 150°: 4s-5s, 120°: 5-6s, 90° 6s-7s, 45°: 4-5s (8-9/10 effort level), 20mm Block Lift Repeaters, 20,5kg, 6x12,7,3 with 2 min rest. One-Arm-Lockoffs were a little bit worse than last time which was in September before i got Covid, but only by 1-3s depending on the angle

Sat: L-Sit 2x15s, 40 Pushups, 45s V-Situps, 20mm Block Lift Repeaters, 15,5kg, 6x12,7,3 with 2 min rest. 

Sun: Rest

I've decided to give climbing a break again to fully heal my knee and focus on getting increasing my fitness with a high volume repeater program. It will be interesting to see how this works and if i am able to apply the fitness that i will hopefully gain also on the wall once my knee is fully healed.

In reply to Randy:

I think that's fairly normal. My one handed block lifts on 18-20mm edges are considerably short of half of what I can hang two-handed on a board. 

Good luck with the knee rehab approach.

In reply to Ross Barker:

I guess I should do a stint although I’m not sure I’m the right person given I’m not much of a trainer 

In reply to Tyler:

I think I’d previously volunteered for Q1, but I’m going to be away for at least four weeks of it (probably unable to stat for these). So if you fancy taking on Q1 I can relieve you in Q2. 

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross. Kinda similar this week too. 

Mon. Foundry boulder on the wave. All the yellow and pinks (probably somewhere between depot reds and depot purples). Harder than last set but got them all in a session. 5x5 pull ups, 3x10 press ups.

Tues. Rest.

Wed. 6 sets of repeaters, 5x5 pull ups, 3x10 press ups. Steady social 10km run 

Thurs and Fri, tonnes of work to get done, the end is in sight though.

Sat. Unexpected overnight rain boshed most plans out the water. It did dry up later on but that didn't fit with my alloted slot. Repeated Keyhole Traverse 2 (f7A) but using the low method at the end instead this time (very much a locals variation but does use a completely different set of holds and moves). Unfortunately there was a big wet streak down the next bit. I could do it in isolation but fell off the last move on the link. Hopefully that will go in dry conditions. I just need it to be a bit warmer (I was numbing out) and maybe a bit fitter too. I really like this traverse. It's a total sandbag at the grade, an ancient Peak 7A that's lost loads of holds but still the same grade. Classic stuff! The full line (work in progress) can't possibly be only 7B+!

Sun. Walked the kids from our house up on to Burbage Moor and got a lift back. I've been a bit lame as it's windy and probably dry out there but I've got some work I need to do this eve so can't really get out with the lamps unfortunately. The fact I can't really be bothered suggests I'm still nackered and need a holiday!

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross. Back on the recovery trail as covid symptoms ease

STG: Regain full health and resume normal training
STG: Kilterboard 5C @ 45°
MTG: Summer '24 uk trad trip with my son and/or Rough Bounds Scottish backpacking trip
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823
LTG: Winter 24 or 25 - do an actual off piste ski tour.

M:    In bed
T:    Woke up thinking I was feeling somewhat better, until the effort of walking half a mile to my GP's surgery & back completely knocked me flat.
W:    ... and
T:     ... so
F:    ... on. 
    Symptoms signficiantly reduced by the end of the week but still *very* tired
S:    Stir crazy and tempted to leap back into training but mostly managed to restrain myself. Based on a negative self-test result I decided I could justify a gentle bike ride to a coffee shop.
S:    Needed some fresh air, so another gentle hour on the bike in the woods. Lots of trees down from the heavy snow last week.
 

In reply to Tom Green:

...and I would be happy to take on Q3, though also happy if someone else is keen.  If I stick to my vague plans, that would take me through to retirement!

Worth noting that week 900 will be on your watch.  Convention has it that the in situ statter organises the meet, puts up the rave tent and sorts out the BBQ...

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross. 

M - Drove to Jerry's roof; wet! Ended up having a brew with some mates. At home did a short max hangs FB session. Built up to a few +30kg hangs on BM2K bottom corners in half crimp 8 seconds.

T - Boardroom. Suprisingly good session. Did one more of remaining from Rnd 2, and then did final problem for Rnd 3. V8 and up problems. So now on full points for Rnd 1 and 3. Got on some other none comp problems after with mates. 

W - ARC session in garage. 5mins on 5 off x 6 . Glad to find some motivation for some Aerocap as I always let my stamina go and learn the hard way on day 1 of sport trips.

T - Dugout, Grinshill. Got stuck in on Sub Moron-Shropshire Lass. Got super close too many times on the crux slap (even holding it once but not readjusting properly and falling) so stayed longer than the arms were asking for but paid off and got the job done. 2nd Font 8A so psyched with that. 

F - Xmas dooo for work. Went go karting. Came away with arms in agony feeling like I had spent the afternoon grappling with compression problems in Font. Not the rest day I needed. 

S - Moonboard. Good to get back on it. New dehumdifier I have had on all week didn't seem to make much difference. Think multiple fans on is best. Arms didn't feel great so didn't want to do too much. Got on Parrot Benchmark 7B+. Dropped it touching the last hold 3 times before finally holding it. Quit to save the arms.

S - Work. Treadmill. 7km interval run, 4 at 5 min/km pace, 3 at 3.30 min/km. Loosley building back towards some park run efforts. Just don't want it to impact in any way on climbing.  

Next week: More of the same. Some outdoor days on the cards , and start Rnd 4 at Boardroom. 

STG:

Get back into regular Moonboarding and Fingerboarding at home. Do something active at work every shift.

Boardroom Rockwork Orange winter bouldering league - 3 rounds to go

Sub Moron-Shropshire Lass ✅ Now should  go back for the In His Head LH finish. 

Outdoor bouldering. Only things I'm loosley interetsed in are Bytilith Wall, Nazgul's, and maybe Crafnant stuff but gets a bit dank up there through the winter. Dugout links rekindled some psyche for Parisellas. 

MTG:

Go back to St Leger, love that place! Maybe Spring.

Unchi Maka on the Sialouze. Looks amazing. Hopefully in the summer. 

Build up more trad mileage again and hopefully go to Pabbay next Spring/summer.

LTG: 8c. 

Ed

In reply to Ed Booth:

Nice work! Have you got any tips for faster recovery between sessions? I struggle to get more than 3 quality sessions in a week and you've smashed in 5 there!

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Well I wouldn't normally do that much myself but keen to up the volume capacity, Worked quite well mixing things up. Also conciously did less of the middle ground stuff on the bouldering sessions.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross, the problem now is I'm getting deluded about the possibility of doing something hard when I'm actually still miles off the pace.

This week I managed four Beacon sessions and got a couple of my project routes done. Tonight burst my bubble a bit though!

As mentioned I'm now contemplating projecting something hard (for me, obvs). On the one hand I love the grind of a long slog but since I last did anything (over 5 years ago) I've deteriorated physically (and irreversibly) and also moved to Wales where the projecting opportunities are not so great. There seems to be a bit of a gap in terms of classic high 7s and logistically its harder to get partners who want to go to the same crags over and over. Previously I could rely on having someone to climb with at either Malham or Kilnsey whereas its a lot more fragmented here, I rarely saw the same people twice down at LPT this summer and the Diamond has such a short and fickle season.

Anyway, enough introspection, I'm going to carry on with the Beacon until my pass runs out and then do something which more resembles training. If all goes well I'll then get on Body Torque direct and if that goes ok move on to Battle of the Parasites or It Takes Glue to Tango. There, I've said it, goal for 2024 set(ish, with caveats and get out clauses).

Edit: Reminder to myself that I need to check this out: Traverse of the Gogs (7c)

In reply to Tom Green:

Works for me if that suits you

In reply to Ed Booth: Well done Ed on SMSL. Saw your video on Instagram particularly the one of the outtakes (fails) it looked desperate.

In reply to Tyler:

Only an offer, but I'll go to the same crag over and over.  I'd be interested in the projecting process (never done it) and no-one that I climb with really wants to play at that game.  Can't do weekends regularly though.

In reply to Ross Barker:

An intense week with work, but enjoyed some sessions at the start, before four days on the road.

Sun - first six set session for ages.  Max hangs on three tips at 11.3; 13.6 and 14.7 kg.  BW pull-ups 5, 6, 7, 7, 6, 5.  6x10 push ups, stretches and reverse curls.

Mon - despite work and prepping for the trip did some weighted pull ups as noted on last week's report.  Excited to get on these.  Good work Liam and Ally for prompting me to do some.

Tues to Friday - on the road and flat out really.  Made exciting by my last-minute Birmingham hotel booking - a perfectly comfortable room, but the roughest bar I've been in for a while!  Landlord absolutely off his head.

Hoping to get a reasonable week in as only away one night this week.  Off to Devon for Christmas itself, but should be ready for a new cycle from New Year.  Not back at work proper until the 10th, so a good opportunity to build a base.

Calf injury seems ok, though haven't tested it with a run yet.

In reply to Ross Barker: Thanks Ross for the stats. I think nothing major happened to the shoulder but its definitely been a bit out of sorts. It felt pretty awful doing very controlled down climbing on easy routes whilst ARCing on Friday but then fine today slapping away on the boulders. The mysteries of the human body.

STG (this month) – 1. maintain a grip on daily life, get going properly again on strength training. 2. Climb 50 Grade 6+ boulder problems before the end of the year.

MTG (next 2 months)– 1. Give me strength – shoulders and core. 2. Climb some grit E1/2 nemesis routes.

LTG (next 6 months) – 1. Give me strength – fingers, steep stuff and slopers. 2. Get properly to grips with safe Grit E3s. 3. Rheinstor Lower Traverse (f7A)?? 4. Attempt 2 on run climb project. 5. Trip to Sanctuary Wall

Mon – Finger block lifts 20mm edge 10 secs half crimp. 5kg, 7.5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 32.5, 32.5. 32.5 (L 9 secs, R 10). Finger block lifts 20mm edge 10 secs 3 ginger drag (alternated in with half crimp) 5kg, 7.5, 10, 15, 20. Lattice heavy rollers wrist flexion lifts 10secs 5kg, 10, 15 x 3.

Tues –  Calf and shoulder rehab

Wed – Depot – mileage. Warm up 20 probs, then pink circuit (V2-V5) topped 20/24 problems. Better session than last week but still feeling a bit off. Calf and shoulder rehab

Thurs – Calf and shoulder rehab

Fri – Awesome Walls – Arcing 4 x 10mins on 10mins off 3 sets on auto belays, 1 on traversing wall. Right shoulder achey.

Saturday – Nothing

Sunday – Hambrook, Frome Valley bouldering. Really enjoyable few hours bouldering with Liam. Managed to link together dry patches of rock to do 7 problems and try a few more. Managed four grade 6 things the best being Mini Arete (Sit) (f6B) which had a great mix of heel-toes, slopey pinches and a gnarly crimp. I’ll definitely come back when I’m visiting my folks in Swindon and it’s a bit drier. No pain from shoulder or calf, although the former still needs a fair bit of rehab to be 100%.

Reflection - Last few weeks have been a bit lower key, which has been needed. I think I was more beaten up from my run-climb than I thought as I’ve been getting quite a few niggles. Realised that at the end of this week I’ve climbed 45 Grade 6+ boulder problems so despite the appalling forecast I’d like to try and get to 50 before the end of the year as a nice arbitrary figure. Need to knuckle down this coming week and test out the calf with some light running, and get weight lifting again.

Tyler if you're not psyched statting. I don't mind doing Q1.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thank you Ross.

I think I do need to rest the elbows more.  As on reflection, when I do climb, then it can be fairly intense.

Quiet week again, as build up to Christmas is making for a busy diary.

One day out, which was cold, so tried out Derek's crag warm up, got some god results, but I think I need to work on the technique

F - Back to visit my Nightmares 7c+? project that I went to once a year ago.  Expected it to feel impossible, but managed to get linking beta fairly quickly.  Tried for a RP, and was really close, but just missed it.  I think a return fresh should get it.  Also did my mates new 7b.

S - Couldn't manage to meet Liam and Ian, but did get a quick hour indoor bouldering in at the end of the day. 

In reply to Ross Barker:

Good morning everyone. I've realised that most of this year I've not really been getting much stronger, for the most part. Periods where my injuries were minor and less inhibiting were great of course, but a fair chunk of it has been spent having to carefully climb around it, causing a bottleneck which is preventing gains elsewhere in the meantime.

I've decided to start with some reasonably structured training, with some off-the-wall strength work to get my healthy parts stronger, and also some more dedicated exercises for the injured finger. I could go a step further and do strength work on the healthy fingers surrounding the injured one but that seems a step too far for me.

Right before Christmas is probably poor timing from a scheduling POV, but better now than never!

Last Week:

Avg weight 77.4kg

M - Ice baths before bed.

T - A little moderate bouldering to start. Then assisted OAPUs, 5x2. -12.5kg to -16.25kg as the sets progressed, lol! Then assisted BM2K OA hangs, 5x7s with -10kg. Felt like I might go heavier but felt about right by the last set. 30s standing hangs between sets for the recovering hand. Two moderate boulders to finish, then 10 minutes of lower body stretches. Ice baths before bed.

W - 10 mins lower body stretches, super light fingerboard pickups. Ice baths before bed.

T - The Pass. Jerry's Roof (f7C) was smeggy as sin, so revisited Lizard King Middle (V9). Spent an age figuring out individual moves again, but sussed a method for the first crux which works around the injured finger. I'm not telling anyone my sequence or else it'll definitely get bunged down to 7B+ but that's all the moves done.

F - Ice baths before bed.

S - AM 10 mins lower body stretches. PM gym. 4x2 OAPUs, 16.25kg assist. 5x7s BM2K edge hangs with right hand, 10kg assist. Left hand 30s standing hangs between sets for rehab. Bit of a rest and then 30 minutes or so on the Moonboard. Found some problems which loaded the recovering finger in a challenging but unaggravating fashion, which is great. Quite shouldery on the RH which wasn't ideal after the OAPUs but should be alright as long as I account for it in future. About 7 weeks since the injury, so progress is slow but steady. Ice baths before bed.

S - Evening 10 mins lower body stretches and super light fingerboard pickups.

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Climbing.

Quite a lot on for the rest of the week, but I'd like to get more in where I can.

Goals:

Rehab left middle finger.

Lizard King?

Manage session load and build better habits.

Improve ability on tiny edges.

In reply to Ross Barker:

A week of low-grade illness for me. Knackered with some swollen glads, but not unwell enough to be off work.

Week 49

M – Tired and a bit lurgied. Nothing but 20min gentle YouTube yoga.

T – Low-grade lurg continued. Knackered.

W – More of the same.

T – Feeling a little better, still no exercise.

F – Work Xmas lunch; was in a total CBA mood driving over, but glad I went as it’s been 4 years since I saw some colleagues f2f. Home in time for children's bedtime, but felt wiped out by 9pm

S – 1hr core and shoulder work out = raking wet leaves in the garden

S – 2hr core and shoulder work out = digging & pruning in the garden. Board after Squiggle’s bedtime. Less damp than before. 11x 6B+ to 7A+ flashes to warm-up. Then projects:

• “Static” 7C BM. 5x goes. Best go matched previous highpoint, but also got the final move sorted. L-wrist started aching – something it often does after time off.
• “Mezzif” 7C BM. 5 attempts at last move; touched twice but didn’t hold. Used to be 7C+ and I can see why!
• “40degrees” 7C BM. 6x goes. Touched the crux from the floor, but didn’t hold it.
• “Kabuki Girl” 7C BM. Tired by now, but glad I had a play on the final move as it seems it’s a goer (can just miss the side-wall with a tight core).

In reply to Ally Smith:

Excellent!  Now that I can officially count leaf raking, digging and pruning as 'core and shoulder work' I'll be exceeding this year's targets by miles!  😂. Tbf, it can be fairly exhausting, as is my weekly routine of processing timber.  Anyway, now I'm looking forward to the hedge removal project and the subsequent redesign at the top of the garden!

Good work on that board btw

In reply to Ross Barker:

Cheers Ross. Top statting.

It's also noticeably messed up my routine. It's amazing how just a little thing can throw you off. It's added extra travel time to my days but essentially I still have access to a really good climbing wall to train. But I had my circuits all worked out at Lancaster and the change in location has thrown things off.

However it's not a big deal atm as with the trip coming up I'm focussing more on trying hard on routes than training. I had a lot of self-imposed stress and hours this week. My fault with a couple of bad work decisions and that ran me down and made me feel a bit crap by the end of the week.

M - Rest 

T - 30 mins on autobelay. Up to 6c. Felt good. No pump at all.

W - 30 mins on circuits. 5+, 6a+, 6b+, 6b+ repeated. Gave up after 25 mins. I think I've reached my limit with climbing up and down or round and round for hours.

T - Rest

F - Kendal routes - feeling rough again. Sub par session. Routes up to 7a and one optimistic try on a 7a+ roof angle route.

S - Rest - weird shoulder injury as I hurt it pushing off the sofa to stand up. One of those daft things. Got quite irritated and sore. Kept me awake a bit.

S -  Kendal routes - Still feeling rough and a bit tired from lack of sleep, but had an OK session. Decided to tackle a route I've not been able to do as it's just so intense. I've only tried it twice before. It's supposed to be 7b but it feels harder than that to me anyway.

6b+, 7a, 7b (working go), 7b rp attempt, 7b rp attempt.

My first attempt was pretty good with 1 move to go before it eases off. My second I was still a bit tired from the first but time was pressing.

Not a bad week. More of the same this week, though I might try the routing roof at Kendal this week for something different. Keep ticking over until the trip on the 27th. I'm bored of plastic now. 

In reply to biscuit:

You may be bored of plastic, but you are doing really well on it.  Good discipline to keep at it!

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross.

Away and busy at the start of the week. I feel like I should do more in the way of exercise when I'm away, but at the same time I feel I need to devote a lot of the time to actually seeing people - particularly in Edinburgh where I was this week, because it's where a lot of my colleagues and team are based.

At the end of the week I got my act into gear a bit. I did 2 decent rehab sessions and a fingerboard session. 

3 days at work this week before Christmas, then the holidays start. My hope is that I can do a couple of aero sessions this week before we head off for Christmas and I lose access to the home board, plus obviously some rehab and so on.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Hey hey. Thanks for statting, Ross -it's been a good stint.

Annoyingly the lurgy has dragged on through this week, so I've had a week with zero cardio. This coming week may not be much better as I managed to strain a muscle in my neck/back by yawning this morning! Remember a couple of weeks ago when I said that end of year running goal would be a formality?!

The only good thing about the lurgy was it coincided with Scottish conditions being crap, so I felt less grumpy about not winter climbing Thurs-Sun.

Week 50:

M: Bouldering. Working on the Lleyn peninsula, so crammed in a quick post-work sesh at Porth Ysgo. Managed the lovely Bobbles (f6A+) and the slightly contrived Tangerine Dream (f6B+) before totally losing the light and doing the death scramble out of the boulders by mobile phone torch. Excellent shenanigans. 

T: Rest. Felt rough.

W: Strength & Prehab. Got out of breath doing pull-ups -probably not ideal!

T: Rest. Still not feeling up to cardio.

F: Top-rope solo at Llanymynech. Four laps on A Dry White Season (D7) then a cursory go at Little Weed (7c) -got a good work out by forgetting to clip the rope in to the draws on the way down, so falling off meant big swings away from the face and lots of energy spent getting back on the rock.

S: Dry tooling at Mannod. Didn't feel 100% but got myself on the big boy wall with four dogging goes up Stress Test (D9) Got the first 5 bolts worked out -felt hard but doable. Quite blind so difficult to work out the moves -good to have beta from the pros. Also, whilst I'd expected it to be relentlessly sustained, I hadn't realised it is also quite thin -need good tool control to stay on some of the flatties whilst also pulling hard.

S: Strength and prehab. Wanted to run, but cold symptoms still lingering.

Week 51:

M: Nowt. (Pulled muscle stopped play).

T: Run.

W: Strength, core, prehab (if neck allows).

T: Climbing.

F: Run.

S: Strength, core, prehab.

S: Run & Climb.

STG (end Dec):

Maintain finger strength -average 2 sessions/week 

Increase core focus -average 2 sessions/week 

3 off big mountain day list (1/3).

Yates' Layaway (Probably not going to happen unless the weather seriously ups its game).

Hidden Dragon (TICK!) or White Wall (Masson, not Millstone!)

100m D6/7 in a session.

Year Goals:

110 days climbing for the year (currently 102).

1000 km running (TICK! -currently 1153km) with 40km vertical (currently 38.5km) for the year.

MTG (end March):

2+ off Scottish VII list.

1+ of Alpine Winter list.

Maintain finger strength -average 2 sessions/week.

Get ski practice in: 5+ sessions Dec-Feb.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Thanks Derek, if you really are interested in projecting something we should get something you are interested in regardless of my aims (especially as you’ll be the one doing most of the travelling!). What sort of grade were you thinking?

In reply to Tyler:

I am interested.  I checked out your targets and there are things nearby for me to go at, which makes it all very convenient.  Devil's Gorge won't be dry enough or warm enough for ages anyway; Pen Trywn is top of my target places to get to grips with and I've never been to LPT so get new crag points there as well.

Difficult to say.  I usually on sight 6c and 6c+, so initially looking at 7a and 7a+ (presumably?).

Incidentally, Devil's Gorge is only just over an hour, so evening distance when Spring develops.

I'm keen on Llangollen area sport and trad as well of course.  There is always the famous trio Technicolour Yawn, I Punched Judy First and Walking with Barrence...🙂

In reply to Derek Furze:

Needless to say I have unfinished business in all those places including something that finishes at the Barrance lower off! 

In reply to Tyler:

Me too… need to get back to Climb High (7a) -especially as it’s my local crag now!

Give me a shout if either of you are starting a siege up there!

In reply to Tom Green:

Excellent!  A fit club team tearing the crag apart!  What an excellent local crag to have.

In reply to Derek Furze:

If you want a Peak based project I'm keen for a weekly mid week regular hit. I'm sure we could find somewhere that has a project for both of us! (If there's is anything you fancy at Raven Tor even better A Little Extra (7a+)?)

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks for the statting.

Mostly still feeling the lurgy during the week.

Trotted out for a 2k run on Saturday, just cause I felt obliged.

Hopefully this horrible cough will be gone by next week and I'll aim for around 10-15k if I'm well. 

In reply to Ian Parnell:

This reminds me a little bit of a funky finger injury that i had a couple of years. I was fine doing limit moves on the Moonboard (the yellow 2016 set), but as soon as i did easy climbing on jugs my pulley started to hurt

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Thanks Swede.  Yes, I should think about a Peak project for sure.  Makes sense to have something available on the doorstep to work on!

In reply to Derek Furze:

Awesome. I'm keen for The Prow (Classic) (7c) (maybe in one pitch?) but I'm sure I can find something to go at just about anywhere.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Swede I'm banking on you having not completely ticked WCJ Cornice yet. I'm planning on persuading Derek he wants to do Brachiation Dance next summer and we'll need a belayer for many days

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Keen for WCJ cornice, I've barely touched it. I've done Brachiation Dance. You'll enjoy the heartbreak finish!

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Back in the day I got all the way to that last move, hence the desire to go back and sort it out.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Cheers Ross. Had a couple of Christmas parties last week so light on training and lots of drinking. Not as pub fit as I used to be so felt pretty groggy for a few days afterwards.

Mon

Garage Session

• Weighted Pull-ups. 4x 2 @40kg RPE(9)
• RTO Dips 50deg lean. 3x 2 RPE(9)
• Pinch Block Lifts: Warmup 10/15/17kg. Working Sets 5x 10s @18.5kg RPE(9)
• 20mm Block Lift: warm up sets then 3x 6 @43.5kg.

Fri

Soggy hour at Hambrook to recce conditions. Repeated a few problems before I’d had enough of the mud.

Sun

Great few hours bouldering with Ian at Hambrook. Still a bit soggy but there were enough dry bits to do half a dozen problems. I had one good go on Knuckle Duster and pulled up to the high point but the crap pockets were just a bit too moist to do the slap from.

Looking a bit wet again this week so will aim for a couple of garage sessions and possibly a quick boulder at the weekend. I’m away all next week so need to get those last minute STGs!

STG (end Dec):

• 2 sessions per week.
• Benchmarks: Fingers- 20mm Block Lift 1RM @60kg (54.5kg), Block Pinch Lift @ 20kg (19.5kg). Core- Unassisted Standing Ab Wheel (75%), Ring Wipers with Ankle Weight  (Tick). Pull- Weighted Pullup 1RM @50kg (47kg), OA Lock Off @90%BW (95%BW). Push- RTO Dip with 75deg lean (45deg).

MTG (April):

• 3 off my Brizzle boulder List (1/3)
• 3 off my Cheddar List.

LTG (next 6 months):

• 1 off my Headpoint List.

In reply to Liam P:

Whats on the LTG headpoint list?

In reply to Ian Parnell:

I make a thoughtful offer to support Tyler as he is stuck out there in North Wales without a projecting team and all of a sudden I'm roped in for all manner of Peak District madness!  Sounds like some fun, though mostly I'm concerned to get on trad!  

In reply to Derek Furze:

Sounds like you're volunteering to come down to Sanctuary wall with me then Derek as trad as you'd like!

In reply to Ian Parnell:

It's posts like this that had me out climbing today!  Sat at Calver crossroads in the pouring rain, it seemed like a bad idea, but managed to get seven routes done - mainly to test that my calf was functioning properly!  

In reply to Ed Booth:

Had a couple of sessions on Apokalypto (f7B) before the rains came and it ticks all the boxes of close to my house, good climbing, and still seemingly impossible!

In reply to Ian Parnell:

In other news, before next summer and the appointment with Brachiation Dance, I'm also happy to do a bit on grit in support of your E1 and 2 nemeses, or even the well-protected  E3 targets that you have.

In reply to Derek Furze: thanks Derek - you asked for it! Well done on the 7 routes. As a paid up member of the keen but desperate club I found myself at 3pm at New Mills Tor squeezing an hour in this evening.

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Were you bouldering, or did you actually get on the routes?!

In reply to Derek Furze: just bouldering barely time for that let alone routes

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Does bionics traverse stay dry in the rain or is it literally just the little bit under the bridge?

In reply to Somerset swede basher: bionics traverse looked pretty dry. I briefly tried bionics direct this evening. In heavy rain I’m not sure. The only really wet but was far left but some of the HVS crack systems were a bit seepy. I’m no local but would guess it stays dry. By the way I’m thinking of going again on Saturday 

In reply to Ian Parnell:

I'm taking the kids to the pantomime on Saturday. I was thinking as an after work hit, could lamp some of the sport routes on the bridge too!

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Local residents might turn up with pitchforks and flaming effigies...😂

In reply to Ian Parnell:

In the unlikely event that I find myself in England at a time when WCJ Cornice is dry, I have unfinished business on Incapacity Benefit (7a+)

In reply to AlanLittle:

Sounds good I tried that about same time as BD - I thought it was harder - I guess it’s what suits

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Sancturary wall looks very cool.

In reply to mattrm: it’s amazing Matt, there are two E1s on it both very good with incubus about as wild as it gets at that grade. There’s also a vdiff/severe traverse out to it from ansteys cove that is 3 stars so it’s not all crazy numbers although it is all crazy steepness.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Cheers Ross. Quite an uneventful week for me with a brief return to rock at the weekend.

M - Zwift 4 x 9 minute Sweet Spot intervals

T - 2hr board session, focusing on 7A volume. Deadlift 5x5, Squat 5x5, Pull-ups 10x4, Shoulder external rotation 8x4

W - Rest

T - Zwift 4 x 10 minute Sweet Spot intervals

F - Rest

S - A trip to Dinbren for the first time in over a year. A tad seepy and possibly the windiest day I've had outside of Scotland. Managed to do all of the moves on I Punched Judy First (7b+) in three sections so I think I've found another project for 2024

S - Zone 2 ride. 44km / 315m ascent / 1hr 35mins / Average Power 172W (norm power 198W)

In reply to Ross Barker:

Hi Ross,

I was out of action again the week before last, my cold / lurgy proved pretty stubborn and there were no activities to report. Last week first tentative steps back:
Mon & Tue: walks & stretching
Wed: hangboard – went far better than I expected. And it did me good…
Thu: stretching
Fri: wall Thalkirchen – no partner, so autobelays: 12 routes from 5c to 6c/+…I’d climbed the routes before but it was all about just moving again; although still not feeling great, somehow managed to do 3 x 6c/+…makes a huge difference when you know what’ve got to do…
Sat / Sun: wife returned from Belin with Covid…so planned weekend session off…a minor miracle: I remained negative and am generally feeling much better.

Ross, your stint is coming to an end – thanks for everything. In particular your kind remarks regarding my climbing partner and her enforced clinic stay. Meanwhile there are the first signs that she’s turned a corner…

I’d also like to put in something very personal here and express my gratitude to the Fitness Club. One of the major symptoms of my PTSD are nightmares, often several times a week. I’ve mentioned this here on the weekly thread a couple of times due to their impact on training / climbing / wellbeing. I’m going to risk it and put it here – maybe, just maybe, the nightmares are over. Eleven weeks since the last one…
I want to thank the Fit Club generally – coming on here has had a real positive effect for me besides training / climbing. Just to be able to be relative open about something like this has meant a great deal to me, and I’m sure has contributed to working through some of the stuff.
I’m now looking forward to get cracking again on training, and maybe the next step, actually setting goals and pursuing them.

Thanks again to all who post here.

Wishing everyone a couple of good days with friends and family, and good health all round.

In reply to Small Step:

That’s a great post to read. Brilliant to hear that FitClub has been so helpful. It’s actually been really helpful to me to have you (and others) sharing your bad weeks as well as the good stuff.
 

I get loads of inspiration from everyone posting up their successes and good times (big and small, climbing and non-climbing) but I’m equally (or maybe even more) inspired by everyone’s frankness about their challenges and bad times (again, big/small, climbing/other). 

In reply to Small Step: really good to hear, I too really value the positivity. I think it’s really important that we feel able to share the difficulties and struggles as well as the successes. I’m glad you feel things are moving forward. Have a relaxing one tomorrow. Hope you wife feels better soon

In reply to Tom Green:

Thanks for that, Tom.
Have to admit that reading your reply - and Ian's below - my eyes moistened...
...to be open to both sides of the equation (for want of a better word) is enrichening, rewarding, and perhaps, despite all the old entrenched habits and stubborn neural pathways, where learning is still possible...

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Thanks Ian. The positivity, yes...it so good to hear the positivity or the assurances from others - I can tell myself xyz, and try and be as positive as I can (at times it felt like I was just pissing in the wind) but it remains in the self-referential circle...the voice of someone else is so crucial.

Hope you're doing OK with all you've got on your plate - that you can go out and climb like you do, and forge such plans - kudos. A great inspiration.

Wife's well again, thanks - we even went to the climbing well yesterday.