UKC

Anyone with an interest in the alps and after yet another tick list this includes a couple of left field choices:

https://www.climbing.com/places/6-classic-beginner-climbs-in-the-alps/?utm_...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_880-7677...

mattrm - lots of significant things there, really impressive progress and the running club thing could be a game changer, hopefully you’ll have enough spare time to stick with it.

Derek Furze - you did something every day, gold star. Not sure about flashing all the boulder problems though, seems like you still have much to learn!

SSB - I didn’t realise moorland grit got condensed, isn't that just drizzle?

The sheep - Are you planning a specific training program for your ultra or just keep on doing what you’re doing? Have you done one before and which one is it?

Alan Little - looks like at least one of your STGs was reached if you were out on the bike for 2 hours and not mentioned covid symptoms. I’m impressed you are able to use crimps on a Kilter board maybe you area bit stronger than you think?

SteveClaw - Have you been back to Spion Kop? It really does look like a good venue, I’m surprised it doesn’t get more love even if just as a top rope venue in the style of Red Wall at Trowbarrow; you could get pretty fit there. Hadn’t realised it’s sandstone, that must make it pretty attractive in itself, assuming it is solid.

Tigh - The books are good but it looks like you’ve put some significant thought into your training already. I do wonder about the received wisdom re. Alpine boots, I guess you can get away with something lighter until you need something more sturdy and then you *really* need them. At least you are not having to break in a pair of plastic shelled boots (look up Koflach if don't know what I'm on about).

Ian Parnell - I wish I had some sage advice on how to kick start your trad head but if I ever knew I’ve forgotten now but you did pretty well last year. I suspect being strong and sticking to climbs with positive holds and good gear gets you up through the grades and then the grade is no longer a barrier so you can get on the more wiggy routes at that grade.

Ally Smith - You’re going to have to switch your training up as I’m running out of superlatives to describe it! Anyway, impressive as ever

Ross Baker - Nothing local inspires? Wasn’t it Samuel Johnson* who said “when a man is tired of the Dugout, he is tired of life; for there is in the Dugout all that life can afford”

AJM - Doms on your injured side is definitely a good sign. What is your local wall?

Tom Green - Well done on getting out there and don’t worry about not getting up your objective this time, as Lattice coach Nitezche put it “On the mountains of truth you can never climb in vain: either you will reach a point higher up today, or you will be training your powers so that you will be able to climb higher tomorrow.”

Randy - “Pullup strength continues to increase” and that’s the best type of strength. You’ve mentioned a couple of times that you may need to increase your rest, hopefully you’re keeping an eye on that rather than just paying lip service. BTW I did not see your reply to me last week, thank you for that, your thoughts matched the Lattice video I posted on here the other week so there does seem to be a consensus.

dave frost - I’ve been weighing up taking time off vs paying people to do work and it has always made sense to pay people but I think that equation is changing in recent times. I’ve paid ludicrous sums for sub-standard work recently! That said I’m wary of touching electrics no matter how many YouTube videos I watch!

Small Step - Pity there is nearly two weeks between your last wall session and and BCD as you sound ready. More importantly(?) you sound ready to get on some of your outdoor projects?

biscuit - “Kilterboard [...] climbs I had tagged as good for warm ups have now become my projects” I know that feeling, its brutal if you are not on it. Your probably in a better position than most to say how many weaker climbers tool themselves in these things. I’ve noticed you’ve mentioned flexibility four times this week and looking back you’ve not mentioned it much before, is this new or have you just started tracking it?

SteveJC94 - Is there an objective to your cycling, you seem pretty scientific but I can’t see goals associated other than “cycling FTP back up to 4.2W/kg” which looks like a training goal rather than an end in itself. Incidentally, how do you cycle for 27kms around Manchester and only do 49m of ascent?!!

Apologies in advance to anyone I’ve missed, you’re doing great!

*It might have been Ally Smith who said it but it doesn’t alter its essential truth

In reply to Tyler:

M: 20 mins yoga and some press ups on knees. Managed one full press ups.

T: 20 mins yoga and some press ups on knees. Managed 5 full press ups.

W: On my board repeated red and yellow circuit and worked on the reverse.

T: 20 mins yoga

F: Nowt

S: 20 mins yoga and then board warm up, started drizzling so continued on the board and all but managed red-yellow-reverse (this has got the second best sequence of moves I've ever done!)

S: Beacon - managed my first 7a OS there (first I am counting anyway) but I was pretty tired overall so exploited Fi's generosity in belaying me on her day off by working routes that were too hard for me.

Weight has stopped increasing but it is not coming down (11 stone 2)

This week I screwed 10mm incut crimps to a beam. I was disappointed but not surprised to discover I can’t hang them with a full crimp so this so something I’m going to monitor of coming months. 

In reply to Tyler:

Improving, definitely, but not quite 100% yet. It's odd. Gentle Z1/Z2 pootling of the sort I generally do on the bike seems to be ok (see also today) but short bursts of anything a little bit more strenuous - stairs, squats - still have me out of breath quite quickly. My GP wants to send me to a specialist, but I'm inclined to wait another couple of weeks and see if improvement continues.

The kilter board is only at 20-25% degrees when I'm using the crimps. Although the plan is to get the problem totally wired then up the angle.

So, this week's activities

STG: Regain full health and resume normal training
STG: Kilterboard 5C @ 45°
STG: Thalkirchen 5.9 "easy" crack
MTG: Rough Bounds Scottish backpacking trip
MTG. DAV Lofoten meet?
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823
LTG: Winter '25 - do an actual off piste ski tour.

M:     
T:    Wall, Thalkirchen. Kilterboard. Another decent session: ticked the crimpy mini-project at <checks logbook> 22°. 
    Also remembered my new crack gloves for the crack machine this time. Result: not instant Pete Whittaker. Distressing.
    Shoulders, bike.

W:    Bike one hour
T:     

F:    Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes: 5b 5c 6a 6a+ 6b, 5.9 three attempts, 6b 6b+ 6b. Encouraging session: already a noticeable improvement in endurance compared to my last couple of lamentable sessions here.
    Thalkirchen has some old school moulded fibreglass sections with a few cracks. The Lofoten trip in the summer is looking definitely on, so I picked the easiest one and started training. Did it a couple of times with hands in the crack and feet on bolt-ons, then tried it crack only and got about halfway. New stg.
    Bike there & back, no weights today - was tired after a pretty long session.

S:    Bike one hour errands around town

S:    Giving sore elbows a break so no third climbing session this week. Took the mountain bike out into the woods instead. 4½ hours, although it would have been considerably less if the astonishing number of fallen trees this winter hadn't made long stretches unrideable. 

Also did a couple of pullup benchmarks during the week. From an embarrassing six in May, I'm up to a single set of eight at bodyweight. Still some way off my lifetime best of eighteen but a significant improvement. Smaller gainz, but nevertheless progress, on the weighted 2rm, up from +16kg in April to +18. 

Another decent week on the recovery road, but I'm going to have to lay off the pullups and board climbing for a bit. My forearms, and especially my elbows, are feeling rather battered. Time to take a break from the board and go volume shuffling on slabs for a couple of weeks.
 

In reply to Tyler:

Congrats on the 7a. 💪

Yeah my boots are stiff enough so no thank you to those plastic ones! I won't be wearing them regularly for training now but it's good to know I managed in them with no blisters etc. And yeah I've been reading some of the uphill athlete stuff and it's been helpful in designing the training

Good week of exercise but shit for climbing as none done again. 

M- Strength session

T - Rest

W - Run 5km easy pace 

T - Strength session 

F - Run 40 mins easy  then 10 mins hard 

S - Rest

Su - Run 10km easy pace 

Weeks Plan 

Try get 5 sessions in Mon-Fri as I'm working sat and travelling to Scotland sun for few days hiking and doing winter skills course. 

Hope everyone smashes it this week 

In reply to Tyler:

Definitely got a lot to learn!

Finished off Sharkathon, though two days across the month did not hit 30 minutes overall.  Made up for this by doing plenty more elsewhere.

Sun - tree felling project ongoing.  Got very tired, but did my repeater finger block cycle at 21.6kg and pinch block lifts up to 8kg.

Mon - BW pull up cycle - 2, 4, 6, 8 X3.  Was planning to do five sets for 100, but was beginning to feel ropey with oncoming illness.  Did the same pattern for push ups and 12 sets of stretches and 12 sets of core exercises.  Quite enjoyed this BW session and good to provide a lot of cycles for core and stretching.

Tues - repeater cycle at 21.6kg.  pinck block lifts to 8kg.  Weighted pull ups - nine sets of two progressing from warm up at 4.5kg to 18.2kg.  18 mins on the bike for 10km.  Not sure I believe the exercise bike computer, but it is a benchmark of a sort.

Wed - out working, but a quick trip to Stoke wall.  Fifty problems mixed across red, blue, green, mint and orange.  Had to have two or three attempts at some of the oranges.  A slightly messed up session as getting pretty weak with illness by now.  It also got very busy, so couldn't get on some oranges in the time available to work a few more.

Thurs - scraped through work.  Drove home.  

Fri - Sun.  Physically incapable of anything.

In reply to Tyler:

Congrats on the 7a onsight Tyler, and thanks for your amusing stats. I had a giggle which is what I need right now. My week turned awful on Tuesday night. I don’t want to discuss it here but it involved a family member. They’re OK physically now but it was pretty scary, although unfortunately not surprising. I’ve felt very low since. I considered stopping posting on FitClub as it all felt frivolous and pointless. But amongst the guilt about my climbing obsession I know that it is essential for my own mental health. Today’s run was a case in point where I had plenty of time to think things through and let go of some of the worst thoughts, and lose myself a little getting battered out on the moors. I tend to write my FitClub entries as part of a daily training diary, and had done the reflection by Tuesday already. It now seems not really reflective of where I am at the moment but I’ll just post it as it was.

STG (this month) – maintain a grip on daily life, get good weekly routine going. 1. Climb some nemesis grit E1-2s clean

MTG (next 2 months)– 1. Give me strength – shoulders and core. 2. Climb some safe grit E3 routes. 3. Six boulder problems 6B+ or harder by March (I did 4 in total in 2023) 1/6.

LTG (next 6 months) – 1. Give me strength – fingers, steep stuff and slopers. 2. Rheinstor Lower Traverse?? 3. Attempt 2 on run climb project. 4. Trip to Sanctuary Wall

Mon – The Climbing Hanger. A dozen easy problems to warm up. Kilter board at 50 degrees, 50mins, tried 8-9 problems, got up 3 x 5a, 1 x 5b. 5b took 6 attempts. Then 3/4s of a 6a+ circuit (skin just too painful and beginning to tear). 4 x slab problems up to purple.

Shoulders, toe hooking and full body strength and conditioning. 8 exercises coupled in supersets 8 reps x 3 sets, upped weight 10%.

Tues – 4.5 mile run in woods. Easy, then 4 x 10sec hill sprints, 50secs recovery x 2 sets with 4min recovery.

Finger block lifts 20mm edge 20 secs half crimp. 5kg, 10, 15, 20, 25, 27.5, 10 secs 30kg, 32.5, 5secs 35kg, 32.5 (right 9 secs, left 6 secs) felt tired.

Wed – Nothing

Thursday – Finger block lifts 20mm edge 10 secs half crimp. 5kg, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35 (Right 9 secs, left 7 secs) 32.5, 35kg (Right 10, left 6 secs). Felt creaky from the start.

Fri – 28 mins on treadmill 2.8 miles, 10 x 1 min on 1min off on decent incline.

Sat – An hours setting with some posh new “Taylor made” holds on the garage woody. Didn’t actually do any climbing but should be plenty to go at when motivation returns.

Sunday – 2hr 50min run 14.6 miles, 500m ascent, mostly off road run, lots of hills & bog, rain & wind.

Reflection - First time on a board for ages and surprise, surprise the Kilter Board felt utterly desperate (bit of a battle not to be too demoralised). Previously at Awesome Walls I’d been doing 6a-6a+ problems. I think they were at 30-40 degrees but this session at 50 degrees everything felt hard. At the ‘easier grades’ at this angle the numbers don’t appear to make much sense - compared with outdoors, probably a full number out! Some of the 5as I failed on felt like 6B-6C outdoors. Anyway I guess I just have to forget all that and apply myself as best as I can. Everything hurt at the end of the session so it was hitting my multiple weaknesses!

In reply to Derek Furze:

Hope you feel better soon Derek

In reply to Derek Furze:

Sorry to hear that Derek. Best wishes for a quick recovery

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Me too, but being pretty rough is trivial compared to the week you have had.  I really hope your family member is stable.

As to Fit Club, we all value your enthusiastic and honest input, but also all understand that real life can get in the way at times.  However, perhaps FC does provide an island of stability or discipline in the midst of the mess that sometimes comes along.  Stick with it while you can, and when you can't, we'll understand.

In reply to Tyler:

Thank you Tyler.

Not been back to Spion Kop yet, had a busy week at work, so things have been quiet on the climbing front.

W - Returned to an E6 project that I cleaned up back in the Autumn, and gave it a shunt to see how I was going.  After a quick warm up and re-introduction, I got it first go, but it was max effort at my current fitness.  As falling on this could well have consequences, I need to increase my fitness to be able to get the limited bits of gear in.  For reference its 18m sustained thin crimpy climbing with no opportunity to rest.

T - This weeks "Training in Trainers" brings a shunt of The Blik (E3 5b) in Mountain Boots.  Gave the route a quick brush, was going to put on rock shoes, but was curious how it would go in the big boots.  Surprised how it wasn't really an issue.

Moving forwards, I have couple of routes on the list now that need better fitness/endurance, so I can go 15-30m on hard ground.  I also have a Font trip at Easter.  This means that I need to get moving with proper strength and endurance training.  I am going to start with Press/pull-ups, and see how that goes.  For endurance, Auto-belay sessions and boulder number circuits.

In reply to Tyler:

Nice work on the big onsight!

I've had a pretty good week, lots of trying hard and good to be back at the terrace again. Injured finger is still limiting in certain positions but none of those positions are found on Rigpa.

Unfortunately another week where actual rehab hasn't really been present, but this week I'm going to be taking a deload. I think the general method these days is to cut volume in half and take the edge off the intensity.

Also doing a brief goal review as it's been a little while.

Last Week:

Avg weight 77.2kg

M - Ice baths before bed.

T - Moonboard. High volume (more than sensible, tbh). Four 7A benchmarks but none too hard. Couldn't do the start move of "Forever Impossible", defo need more LH confidence for that snatch. Worked "Ironarm", a couple inches away from sticking the crux, and "Problem 15" which feels pretty doable if I can catch the crux nicely with the LH. Left this, left that, I NEED to do some more dedicated rehab! Ice baths before bed.

W - Inkling of lurgy. I will stave it off with all of my might. Ice baths before bed.

T - Rigpa (V9). My power of will was enough to not succumb to the lurgy which was great. First session in ~10 months, hard move 1 gave no trouble, but still missing something from hard move 2. Need a big ladder/traverse in to have a really good feel around the holds and be sure of what I'm after.

F - Away. Much carb consumption!

S - AM much fry-up consumption, PM Rigpa (V9). Mate brought his big ladder which was a hit. Felt kinda close on the OG beta but it seemed a bit wild still. Discovered a new hold a bit up and right of the crap RH, it's slopier but bigger, and also a different part of the lip which is also slopier but bigger, and a bit closer so won't leave me as stretched out on the right foot. Too tired to give it many promising goes but it does seem like the way to me! So much detail at this point it's very easy to overthink every move.

S - Rest.

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - 1h MAX climbing.

W - Rest.

T - 1h MAX climbing.

F - Rest.

S, S - See what the weather does...

Goals:

Rehab left middle finger. Not perfectly following a protocol but it is improving a bit. Must kick my arse into gear and do better.

Manage session load and build better habits. This one has been slipping but hopefully the deload week will help as a refresh.

Improve ability on tiny edges. Not even really thought about this, finger needs to be better rehabbed I think.

Louisville Lip. A good long-term project I think. Will have another session in a couple weeks or so and see how it goes.

Rigpa. Back on here again!

In reply to Tyler:

Hi fitties. Strong stats, Tyler. Nietzsche -source of some of the greatest climbing wisdom ever! (and also one of the greatest route names in the Mont Blanc massif?!)

A reasonable training week... plenty of pretty specific stuff, although dropped the weighted hill walk as I felt like it would be a bit too much training load.

Week 5:

M: Trail run. 10.0km, 39m vert, 5:38/km. Pretty gentle, as it was my first run of the year (less shocking than it sounds as I've had a week or so of lurgy, then two weeks when I was in the hills).

T: Bouldering. Turned up arrogantly expecting to finish off Square face traverse (V4). Obviously this resulted in a well deserved humbling! The last move to the right arete is really tricky... can't work out whether to do the same beta but try harder, or turn to some alternative beta I found at the end of the session. (Did 'do' it but by an unsatisfying rising diagonal to the arete -not giving myself this).

W: Prehab. Supposed to be a hill walk with a big bag, but felt a bit knackered.

T: Trail run. 12.6km, 412m vert, 6:36/km. Max hangs and weighted pull-ups. Social indoor bouldering session.

F: Skiing. Getting my ski-legs back after four years off the planks. Fortunately didn't feel too alien, and the new superlight ski-binding combo feels great (I'll probably be cursing the lightness on refrozen crud, but I'll just have to ski better!)

S: Rest.

S: Dry tooling at Masson. Mileage session doing laps on stuff I've done before. 

Week 6:

M: Skiing.

T: Run.

W: Strength & Core.

T: Skiing.

F: Strength & Core.

S: Climbing.

S: Run/Weighted hill walk.

STG (end March):

Maintain finger strength -average 2 sessions/week. 

Consistent strength and conditioning -average 2 sessions/week.

Get ski practice in: 5+ sessions Dec-Feb. 

2+ off Scottish VII list.

1 off Slovenian Winter list (FAIL).

1+ off Alpine Winter list.

In reply to Tyler:

Brilliant! ;-D So what's the best...?!

In reply to Derek Furze:

Bloody lurgy! Hope you're on the mend. We all need tips off Ross about mentally managing the lurgy!

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Thanks for the honest write-up and reflections on the sometimes seemingly trivial diary of physical output.

I started fit-club when Emily was terminally ill, maintained it after her passing, and know very well the positive effect it can have on your own well being, to quiet a hectic mind through physical activity. 

In reply to Tyler:

A well timed quote/reference extolling the virtues of the Dugout:

Week 5

M – Rest

T – Despite enjoying the novelty of meeting a supplier face-2-face, I’m very glad I don’t commute along the M56 regularly! No physical activity.

W – Quick evening board; 65min only. 11x 6B+ to 7A warm-up flashes.

• 2x short goes on crux of “For Dong” the least repeated 7B+ BM. Good crimp recruitment, even if I didn’t hold the move.
• 6x goes at Shoulder Move, each with same outcome; failing on the last move, but best go was very close, despite it dank humidity. 
• One go on crux of “Force of Will” 7C+ BM. Felt closest ever, but exploded backwards out of the undercut.

T – Nothing.

F – packing and travel to in-laws, 20min YouTube yoga

S – Civilian duties. Evening carb consumption 😉

S – Dugout; individual moves and hangs to warm-up. Repeat Doug’s Face and variations. 2x40min sessions working Sub Moron, split with 10min of attempting to clean off a graffiti phallus.

New foot beta was mixed blessing; as the foot is much more solid and less painful than spike beta but it forced my bum to sag, making the slap feel further. Bets go tickling the break (again!) Quick RP efforts on Digging A Lass (f7B+). First go got the guppy wrong. 3min rest and go again. Got the guppy well, did the crux then mysteriously couldn’t get the knee in ☹. Rush back to in-laws for Sunday roast.

In reply to Tyler:

Yeah, even moorland grit will condense with a big enough and sudden enough temperature spike. Especially when the ground had been frozen before hand and there is loads of moisture about suddenly.

Mon. Rest.

Tues. Aerocap on the auto belay, pull ups, press ups.

Wed. 10km run.

Thurs. Repeaters, pull ups, press ups.

Fri. Rest

Sat. Roche abbey session. Started with Car Park Traverse (f7A) which was as quality as it sounds. Next up was Mercy (f7A+). At first it looked a bit bum dabby on the block behind but once we'd worked out the sequence it actually wasn't at all.  Also managed a final try hard go send of No Mercy (f7B). Although this sounds like an eliminate it's actually a really logical direct line with great moves. I've not climbed a 7B since April so was pleased to see some finger strength coming back after quite a few boulder sessions recently. Steady 3.5km stop start run shadowing small swede round the junior orienteering course in the afternoon.

Sun. Steady circa 3km run with the junior fell running group.

In reply to Tom Green:

I’m glad someone asked! It’s the crux of Nagasaki Grooves (E4 6b) which must be good as I had an annyong slip on my first attempt and still love it. 

In reply to Tyler:

Looking at the (relatively few) comments on this, the are clearly others who have the same view.  Indeed, the last logged ascent has 'best moves in the Lakes' in there.

In reply to Derek Furze:

Yes just read that! I have no recollection of any run out so probably not that bad. Unfortunately this crag/route gets very dirty (it wasn’t when I did it).

In reply to Tyler:

Not that bad?!  There are also comments about forty-foot falls off the 'easier' bit!

I've only had one evening visit to do No Holds Barred, which was decent.  Still got Banzai Pipeline on the list.

In reply to Tyler:

Thanks Tyler, no following a specific plan. My first goal is to get to a 25k run and then consolidate at that distance until im comfortable before pushing on again. The event is the Foxton Hound ultra and isn't until August so plenty of time to get up to distance. Had a good steady week and built on the long run again.

Monday was a rest day after birthday celebrations....

Tuesday 15k cycle to work

Wednesday, got a 1km swim in

Thursday was a stretch class

Friday, 5k run followed by a 0.5k swim cool down

Saturday was spent chasing around after the kids as normal

Sunday was the long run day, got in a fab 17km trail run. Quite hilly too 

In reply to Tyler:

Weight - 14st 5lbs

STG - Maintain diet for Jan.

MTG - flat 10k 1 hour

LTG - 30 mile ultra (July 24)

BHAG - F7A boulder somewhere....

M - T - Rest

W - Pen-y-Fal and Deri loop, 14.5k, 588m asc about 2h 30m

T - S - Rest

Weekly kms - 14.5km

Diet status - Average

Weight hasn't gone up, so diet is still 'average'.  Great run on Wednesday.  Took 20 odd minutes off it, even tho I took a different descent that meant it was probably longer by a few 100 meters.

As Ian gave me an excellent excuse to be lazy, I'm calling this week a 'deload' week.  Thanks for that!  Slightly more seriously, my legs did feel a bit worn heading into the Weds run, so I thought that it would be better not to put any more miles on them at the moment.

The 86 miler has been removed from my LTG, as the race no longer exists and I can't find an alternative that inspires me.  Very annoying.

Got some new shoes, that I'm really not sure about, but I've run in them, so I'm stuffed for taking them back.  Should have stuck with my Hokas.  They're the Killian Jornet brand, Normal.

In reply to Tyler:

It is - for ages either the wrong move would cause a twinge, or I would wake up the next day with the feeling that all the rest of my shoulder was really sore because it had been pulling double shifts in order to cover the weakened/injured area.

It's also good in that hopefully it points at a route back towards being fully healthy again - I've said before I think but Jan 22 was the last time I had no injuries at all, and that's quite a long time ago and has been quite a motivation sap.

Without spoiling next week's update I went again yesterday and also had a decent session without tweaks or aches, which is great.

My local is the Project, in Poole.

Anyway, in terms of this week gone:

- Monday and Tuesday I was in Bristol, where I did some walking and some stretching and hamstring exercises.

- Thursday I then did a decent rehab session.

- Saturday I did a good board aero session, playing round trying to vary the intensity a bit (it's hard to do base low end aerobic stuff at 15 degrees over, so it's about finding the right balance of climbing and using the steep shakeouts that I can get by bridging to the side supports). I also did 5km brisk walk trying to keep up with the kids on their bikes.

- Sunday my wife wasn't feeling great so cancelled the planned wall trip, deferred to yesterday.

Busy few weeks of travel etc coming so just need to focus on doing what I can. Once I get back I want to try to start mixing in a bit more power endurance in the runup to Easter.

In reply to Tyler:

Hi tyler,

The pay people or do it myself has been a long battle to get right. The last effort resulted in exhaustion and burnout trying to renovate a house and keep my quite challenging full time job. For some reason i decided to convert a sprinter at the same time - all got finished but with some consequences for mental health. I wont be repeating that.

On of the surprises has been my general low level of fitness. Being on my feet all day isnt easy so im hoping that the DIY in Barnstaple will up my general level of fitness. Its a bit sad to say that sort of thing really. Looking forward to having time for Kettlebell training which is how i prefer to get fit and strong.

Im still keeping in mind a point made by dave macleod on one of his youtube videos about motivation. Allostatic load is interesting and something i hadn't thought of but im trying to quantify for myself: 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allostatic_load

Sat: Redpoint 3 x 6a, 1 6a+, 2 x 5c 1 x 5b

Still struggling to get outside. But fingers crossed when March arrives htings should get easier!

Cheers all.

Dave

In reply to mattrm:

Hi Matt, what was the issue with the Normal shoes? - I'd been perusing their website and was intrigued. I had half a dozen pairs of Hoka previously, felt very good but didn't wear well. Now using Altra. I have wide feet and they fit me very well, blister-free and wearing well so far on some reasonably rough trail runs.

In reply to mattrm:

Presumably that Pen-y-Fal / Deri loop has met (more than!) your MTG?

In reply to Tyler:

Thanks for the reminder , i try to keep on eye on that and have reduced the pullup session to 2 per week. But i still need to carefull, which takes a little bit of discipline, as the maximum intensity work does not feel that tiring to me, but still takes a lot of time to recover.

Recap last week:

Mon: L-Sit 2x20s, Handstand, 2x12 Pike Pushups, 40 Pushups, 60s V-Sit-ups 12 Lunges 30 Bodyweight Squats, 20mm Block Lift Repeaters, 16,8kg, 6x12,7,3 with 2 min rest

Tues: Rest

Wed: One-Arm Pullups with a light assistance band: r: 5,5,5,5; l: 5,5,5,5; 20mm Block Lift Repeaters, 21,8kg, 6x12,7,3 with 2 min rest. 

Thur: L-Sit 2x20s, Handstand, 2x12 Pike Pushups, 40 Pushups, 60s V-Sit-ups 12 Lunges 30 Bodyweight Squats, 20mm Block Lift Repeaters, 16,8kg, 6x12,7,3 with 2 min rest

Fri: Rest

Sat: One-Arm-Lockoffs: 150° 4-6s, 120°: 9-10s, 90°: 10-11s; 45°: 10-11s, 90° +4kg: 4-5s, 20 Pullups (about 1-2 reps in Reserve); afterwards first climbing session since November in the Boulderwelt, just did a bunch of easy boulder and traverses up to 6b+; most importantly knee was feeling good and i not have a pain or discomfort, also felt surprisingly fit so it looks on a first glance as the repeater is finally paying off

Sun: L-Sit 2x20s, Handstand, 2x12 Pike Pushups, 40 Pushups, 60s V-Sit-ups 12 Lunges 30 Bodyweight Squats, 20mm Block Lift Repeaters, 16,8kg, 12x12,7,3 with 2 min rest

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Hope you're all ok.  Sounds like a rough week.

On to the shoes.  This review pretty much covers it:

https://blisterreview.com/gear-reviews/running-reviews/running-shoes/nnorma...

"I struggled with the upper’s lack of pliability during my first 30 miles in the Tomir; it was prone to creasing at flex points near the bottom of the asymmetrical laces and failed to conform to my foot."

This is definitely what I find.  The upper is fairly heavy duty and has this plasticy cover around the laces which isn't very comfy.  I've just done 17k or so on them and they're not terrible, just not as good as my Hokas.  The grip is pretty decent.  I'm hoping that they'll break in nicely.  I like that they're a vibram sole.  Not at all convinced about the claims of durability, I'm not light and I rarely get shoes to last long.  Also coming from using Hokas for years, the level of cushioning just isn't the same. 

I'm pretty sure I'll be getting a pair of speedgoats for the ultra.

Derek - Also hope you're ok and over the worst of the illness.

Technically the MTG is a flat 10k.  I could change it to be say 1h 40m on my 10k hill loop, which is probably more sensible. 

In reply to Tyler:

Cheers Tyler. Nice one on the 7a and the traverse. It sounds like your consistency is paying off?

Flexibility has been there for a while. I think I mention it every so often but some weeks don't log it.

It's just a 15 min stretch thing on you tube. Mainly for my old man hips.

M - Gym. 

30 min continuous climbing. A mix of 6a and 6b on the circuit board.

T - Boulder at Onyx. Great fun and some good try hard.

W - Flexibility

Gym - did some core. Had DOMS for 4 days. Won't be doing that again for a while....

T - Rest

F - Boulder at Lancaster - did the league problems up to 18. Tired core = saggy arse, so didn't try any of the hard stuff.

S - Nothing - can't remember why. I had plans but 

S - Routes at Kendal. Steep stuff tried, everything failed. Such fun! 

Went for a jog.

I need to get some proper structure now I have got back into the swing of things. There's lots of little supplemental things (like finger work before climbing) I'm just not doing.

Next week I'm going to go a little easier and use the time to get a proper plan together for the big project.

For those interested I found a video of it on you tube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuL4ATLKzrw&t=23s

That'll be five mins of your life you'll never get back.....

In reply to biscuit: looks just like the Peak apart from the golden rock, the flowing tufas, the perfect knee bar, the comfy jug shake outs, the sunshine,…

In reply to Tyler:

Cheers Tyler. Yeah I've got a couple of sportives this year that I'd like to finish with a decent time. 4.2W/kg is a fairly arbitrary figure, but that was my peak FTP from a couple of years ago and at that power I was flying compared to my current rides. I find I'm very goals oriented so it's a good thing to work towards. 

It does take some doing! Living in Didsbury, once I've made the short trip SW to get out of the suburbs, I'm onto the Cheshire plain which is flat as a pancake. 

M - S&C: Push-ups 10x4, chest press 10x4, pull-ups 5x5, tricep dips 10x4

T - Vo2 max intervals: 1:30 @ 120% of FTP/1:30 @ 50% of FTP. 3 sets, separated by 5 minutes at 50% of FTP

W - Unstructured bouldering session on the Depot purple circuit

T - Zwift Zone 2 base ride. 1hr at 70% of FTP. Average power 175W

F - Rest

S - 3 x 20minute ARC sets on the autobelays

S - Threshold intervals. 45minutes zone 2 into 3 x 8minute intervals at threshold. Back into 30minutes zone 2. 48km / 247m ascent / 160W average power / 182W normalised power

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Yes that's what I thought too. It saves me having to spend £ on diesel for repeated trips to the Peak. 

In reply to biscuit:

Is l'ocaive the bit around the corner from Gandia?  Didn't Chris Sowden do quite a bit of the development?  Anyway, from the pics I did initially think it was Tom's Cave...😂

In reply to Derek Furze:

Yes it's near Gandia. Pedregeur is the nearest town and Gandia and Alcalali are the nearest crags I think. I don't drive when we're in Spain so I never pay any attention to where places are.

In reply to biscuit:

Good stuff.  I think I have placed it now.  I leave my Spanish guides in the flat so couldn't simply check, though UKC would no doubt have helped! 

Btw, I think I saw (section 34.b 'Setting targets') in the fit club rule book that 'on occasions when a chauffeur is utilised, target grades must be raised by +... Hope that helps 😂

In reply to Tyler:

Hi Tyler,

The lateness of my posting reflects a bit of a dip in motivation. But better late than not all…so:
continued unstructured training, one wall session, two plodder runs, a bit of core, but one quite good hang board session.
The wall session: Thalkirchen, got on three routes for the project there, ticked one 6c, got tangled up somehow on the second last move of another 6c, having already got through the difficult passages, and met a mini Waterloo on a 6c+/7a – distracted by an oblivious autobelayer next door...status of the Thalkirchen project: up one to 7 ticked from the goal of 12

Pity there is nearly two weeks between your last wall session and BCD as you sound ready. More importantly(?) you sound ready to get on some of your outdoor projects?

You’ve nailed it here – I was primed two weeks ago. But I’ve caught a cold this week and have been resting horizontally the last two days…tomorrow is Challenge Day…either we’ll have to cancel or go through the motions and my wife continues her undisputed reign while I try and heave myself up some overhang…or I need to have some of Ross’s anti-lurgy focus – is it awareness on the unaffected parts of the body, the inner energy?

outdoor projects - yes, more importantly, alas...

Something is going on…and I can’t put my finger on it…and that I can’t is not surprising, really. I’ll abstain from too much detail but – to conjure up some primary school science lesson of the late 1960s – it feels like climbing outdoors is like a magnet for the iron filings which are the disparate and often contradictory aspects of the PTSD…this is where they all congregate and I just feel overwhelmed and discouraged…an encounter with disappointments…over years, really, maybe since my first climbing trip to Frankenjura in 2009 and something inside is saying ‘enough is enough…there are things you can’t change….’ I can only trust that if I keep fit a spark will come…sorry about this – you asked a good question. I’m in decent nick and have a good basis…spring is just about here…

Wishing all a good weekend, better health for us all and good vibes for those struggling with some pretty difficult stuff.

Paul

In reply to Small Step:

Obviously I don't know anything about the exact nature of your troubles, but still I would bear in mind that dealing with climbing-related stress in the Frankenjura really would be leaping in at the deep end, given the usual uncompromisingly physical climbing style combined with the rather old school nature of most of the bolting.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Evening Alan,

thanks for posting. I expressed that rather awkwardly - my first ever climbing trip was to the Frankenjura and it was terrific....went with seasoned alpinists who did lots of easier stuff with slings and nuts. I got onto a couple of 5c's (reasonably well bolted) and did quite well...the stuff I mean is things like balancing out your own needs and wants and goals with those of others, or just generally feeling relaxed in the company of others. And not under pressure / stress. Always on alert. In retrospect a lot of symptoms were emerging at that time. They're in full expression since 2017 and I'm discovering new layers all the time...unfortunately...

Although I would have been up for it, I haven't been to the Frankenjura since 2011, which says a lot. I just retreat into a shell....that said, you're completely right of course - until I get back up to speed again on rock, I need to carefully weigh up whether the Frankenjura is appropriate.

How's your health? Upward curve? Hope so, you've got some great plans for this year.

Paul

In reply to Small Step:

Thanks for asking. Upward curve, yes, but not 100% yet. My GP wants to send me to a lung specialist, but I'm holding off to see what happens as long as things continue to improve (slowly) on their own.

In reply to Tyler:

Hi Tyler,

another post - bit silly and superfluous , really, and sorry for the confusion - I just tried to edit my posting for this week, too much psycho stuff came out in the end, but either one can't edit post the message send or I didn't understand how...
I wanted to put it this way, instead:

While it helps me to ponder this PTSD stuff  in response to the query - your question about outdoor projects - and type a few lines, at some point it all gets too complicated and convoluted...not really a Fit Club entry...
The question is fine, of course, thanks - I'm in pretty good nick and spring is around the corner...no projects though, not even the inclination to go outside...the opposite actually...slowly - these things take a while to gestate out of the confusing muddle - I'm realising why this is...all I can do is stay fit and wait for a shift...
So the edited version...what a stuff up!! ...like an echo chamber...apologies again....
P.

In reply to Small Step:

Hi Paul

Not that I think your posts need editing, but for future reference the edit option is only available for an hour.

I would also observe that, for one reason or another, people do change the things that they are interested in.  The number of people my age who go to the wall in summer, or only ever sport climb, is an example of changing drives, some of which might be because they are less interested in the 'effort-reward-fear' equation with trad or the mountains.  Just because you did do something, doesn't mean it's a failure if you don't do it again!  I know I've had it with any testing soloing and probably anything more than a bit bold these days 🙂.  After all, it is meant to be (mostly) fun!

In reply to Derek Furze:

Morning Derek,

thanks for that. Now I know - one hour to check!
I appreciate your observation. And it's an aspect I've considered. First off, when I move away from training / grades / plans etc., I'm simply grateful for the past year. I was on the verge of chucking all climbing in when I joined Fit Club. So small step taken. Now I know - it doesn't matter what or how or with whom - I'll continue climbing until I can't do it anymore. If that means lots of plastic with the ocassional picnic day on rock with my wife, then so be it....that entails, though,  working through a few disappointments (and their entwinement with the post-trauma stuff), so just part of the process of moving on through /with life for me...also: climbing doesn't have to be one thing, does it? Maybe there's a sense of it as a monolithic block that is putting me in a straitjacket, when there's actually cycles, spring will be picnic climbing with the wife, summer a bit of alpine, autumn something else again. The other thing is: from my pre-therapy peak of 2016 to now...I'm almost 7 years older, and it matters not that I feel stronger and climb better on plastic - aging is aging...and yes, fun! what's the saying: the best climber is the one having the most fun...(Güllich?) which means flexibility....not being really the fun type, I'll settle for a sense of contentment

Thanks again - and a good Sunday to you and yours.

In reply to Small Step:

Great to see your first point - that FC has helped you maintain some kind of track.  That's really what we all strive to do for each other.

Your cycles discussion is also interesting and I agree that it is partly about being in a position to take advantage of whatever the season presents.  I'm definitely more accepting of failure now I'm older, and in some senses have made it more likely by being a bit more determined to have a try.  Previously, I might have walked away with a come back when I'm going better attitude, but I've learned that I can compliment myself for having a try, without being demoralised if I don't manage something.