UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fitclub_week_781-74494...

Afternoon FitClubbers,

A big thanks to Somerset Swede Basher for a solid stint at the helm. It’s been a long winter of lurgy and injuries for many but FitClub consistency has allowed people to crank out as much training as possible.

Stats:

Steve Claw: Well done on getting 3 solid sessions in on top of a busy work week. Your half crimp Max Hangs are coming on nicely too. +2.5kg is a sizeable jump but holding 6x 9-10s shows you’re in the right range.

AJM: Going strong on the Bez siege and sounds like the new beta may provide a breakthrough. Now my fingers are getting back to almost usable I’ll have to hit you up for another visit.

Si dH: Hopefully there’s no lingering Covid symptoms. A rest week would leave you with 4 weeks of solid training before Easter and your font trip. Ample time to home in on some goals.

Ger_the_gog: Congratulations on 13lbs dropped since the festive binge! Careful with the weighted yomps. It really is great training but isn’t kind on the joints. Marginal gains are the aim of the game and hopefully the ankle isn’t too sore.

Randy: The dreaded plateau! How’s your Recovery, Diet, Sleep? The figures you post look strong (sets of 4x Pistol Squats!) but if you’re noticeably weaker than your previous self then something else may have changed. Equally, if you’ve been doing the same workout for an extended amount of time you may need to change it up for a few weeks then return to bust through that plateau.

Ross Barker: A f7a+, and a f6c+ flash is a good first day in Font. Good luck with putting your fingers in canine cavities. I have tentative plans for a summer visit so I'm excited to read what else you get done!

Tyler: Sounds like a great trip. All the best for the scans this week.

Alan: Looks like you hit all your STGs this week (Max Hang session is an acceptable substitute when family commitments intervene). Also sounds like you’re making good progress with your skiing. Hopefully, the week’s reprieve from Ski School allows more time to work on your technique. Once Ski Lessons are back on you should be up for it.

Tom Green: Recovery looks like its coming along nicely. I feel your pain on building slowly. I feel like I’m good to go but was warned off impact for another few months. You must be psyched to find a summer project. This has reminded me to get out there with the MicroTrax to find something suitable…

Ally Smith: A week of lurgy sounds grim but at least the 2kg weight loss has bolstered the Lattice Strength-to-Weight ratios!

The Sheep: Strong consistency in the pool. Nerdy swimming question: how many flutter kicks do you use per stroke cycle? I usually use 6 but found I’m as quick without using my legs due to fast kicking leaving me breathless. I read that long-distance swimmers use one kick per arm stroke which I tried this week, but it just feels weird...

Derek Furze: Guidebook flicking and a weekend away with the wife. Quality use of a deload week. Hopefully the roped climbing went well.

Somerset Swede Basher: Interesting finger physiology. Have you previously ruptured pulleys in the ring fingers? And dad dancing warmup is the key to sending 7c. Maybe AJM should try it before Stomping with Bez!?

JCK: One good session is better than none. With 3 weeks of additional free time it may be worth writing a short training plan to squeeze out those gains.

SteveJC94: Good effort on Zero and your photo of The Castle looks the definition of ‘Bluebird’ - days like that make the washouts worthwhile. Ignore the haters…”send” isn’t a verb, it’s a way of life!

Planetmarshal: Welcome back and interested to hear how you get on with Gresham’s Training Plan. Another one with Norovirus induced Strength-Weight Ratio gains.

Biscuit: 4th Vet is a good turn out in my opinion. I’ve only been to BUK once but thought the setting was superb - definitely fierce but with interesting moves. Bring on the PUMP.

Liam P: Now I’ve discovered my fingers can handle a fair amount of pulling again, I’ll venture back out to tick some bouldering goals. Trip to the Ben this weekend to join the hordes.

Have a good week.

Bonjour all, nice first week on the stats Liam! Hope you enjoy your stint I'm on the ferry from Calais now so this is good timing indeed.

A lovely week in the forest. Tried mega hard on some stuff and had a great time exploring.

Last Week:

M - Bas Cuvier. Started off on Cortomaltèse (f6C+), took a few goes to get the subtleties, and just scraped it from the lower foothold. Proper bleau! Had a few goes on Le Carnage (White 6t) (f7B+) but didn't get anywhere, so committed the rest of the day's strength to La Balance (f7C+), which looked very inviting. It genuinely feels like it could go in another session or two. Really cool boulder!

T - Rest. Ish. Couple of easy things at Apremont.

W - Petit Bois in the morning, smashed out Big Jim (Black 4) (f6C), great problem. Tried La Baleine (Black 7) (f7A+) but was getting very warm and wasn't feeling it. Buthiers Tennis in the afternoon, did Le Pouf (f6C) which was very Font-y, most enjoyable slapping! Got a mild case of Font Elbow but I'm not really too worried about it.

T - Franchard Isatis. Tried Sur-Prises (f7C) a few times but the sloper was slick and I wasn't feeling it. Did a bit of resting.

F - Quick 95.2 hit for Duel dans la Lune (f6C), then La Roche aux Sabots after. Got a cheeky flash of L'Oblique (f7A) but then we got rained off!

S - Wet day rambling. Visited L'Elephant and Dame Jouanne. La Barre Fixe (assis) (f7B+) looks very doable, Envie d'Ange (f7A) and Figure de Proue (f7A) look mint too. At DJ, La Tour de Babel (f7B+) looks absolutely sublime, the odd other interesting thing too. Project shopping!

S - Drive.

Next Week:

M - Rest

T - Rest.

W or T - Finger rehab and maybe some local bouldering.

F - Rest.

S, S - Get outside!

Goals:

Rehab finger tweak.

A Mon With A Spade.

Rigpa.

Brass Monkeys.

Yeah, destroyed both ring fingers in the past and although they recovered they've never been as strong and always feel like injury potential waiting to happen.

Mon. Rest. 

Tues. Headed out to secret garden. Warmed up on Nigel's Problem (f7A) which was a bit airy at the top but we had a good stack of pads and it's a flat landing so wasn't too bad. Managed to do Dick Williams (f7B) afterwards too which I was pleased with. Worked out some beta on Left Hand Man but was pretty tired by then and there were lots of moves I didn't do on it.

Wed. 8km steady run.

Thurs. 3x10 shrugs, 6x max hangs (+29kgs), 3x10 press ups. Got through the hangs OK but feeling tired from Tuesday.

Fri. Rest.

Sat. Foundry routes session. Still feeling fatigued. Managed to drag myself up a few 7as but also fell off one. Low energy.

Sun. 9km run flat and fast.

Need a lighter week this week really as I'm nackered. I think the only day I can get out this week will be Tues so hopefully I can recover a bit by then, then rest til Saturday. 

Thanks Liam, good statting! Re: lingering covid - I am having the occasional coughing fit but nothing severe. Yep, 4 weeks until Font now. I'll try to do a couple of weeks more max hangs and then a couple of weeks with more bouldering if I can find time.

Goals:

- Maintain my physio rehab on finger/shoulder every week and aim to stay uninjured

- Subject to above, maintain a consistent pattern of 2 fingerboard sessions per week until at least the end of March (starting with 3/6/9 protocol but I plan to move to one arm max hangs at some point)

- Go climbing once a week, have fun, try hard and maintain movement skills

- 3 Font 7s in Font at Easter, assuming we go

- 2 Font 7Bs across the year

These goals feel fairly modest but let's see how it goes... I will plan to review them post Font.

M: rest.

T: squeezed in a trip to the Hangar at lunchtime before travelling for a work trip. Did a bunch of reds and a white, fell off the top of two other whites. Shoulder/arm rehab afterwards.

W: away with work. Did some shoulder/arm rehab in the evening.

T: away with work.

F: -

S: morning - one arm max hangs - 5 reps of 7 seconds on the bottom middle bm2000 edge, BW -15 kg both sides. Felt ok on my right, quite hard on left. Weighed myself for the first time in ages - 81.5kg. 12 kg more than mid 2016. 6 kg more than mid 2018 when I last climbed something hard. It would be good to get back to 75kg. Time to begin operation end-dad-bod?

S: rest, wife's 40th

Si

Thanks for the stats Liam. Sleep and general recovery has been decent. I've tried to increase my calorie intake and i feel that it has helped a little. I've also noticed that i generally feel better at the moment compared to when i was doing all the repeater work. So maybe the workload was just too high and i carried it over into the maximum strength phase.

Mon: Rest

Tues: Fingerboard max hangs 4x 10s with 3-4 min rest:

• 20mm egde:  67,8 % of BW average with right hand, 67,4% of BW with left hand
• Pinch Block with 17kg for the right hand, 16kg for the left
• Assisted one-arm-lockoff, 92%-97% of BW, 4 sets of 10-15s at different angles (170° -45°)

Wed: L-Sit (floor) 2x20s, Handstands against the wall, 2x10 pike push-ups,  2x8-10 fingertips push ups, 15 Lunges, 4 pistol squats on each side, 30 normal pushups, 45s V-Sit-Ups

Thurs: Fingerboard max hangs 4x 10s with 3-4 min rest:

• 20mm egde:  71,8 % of BW average with right hand, 67,3% of BW with left hand
• Pinch Block with 17kg for the right hand, 16kg for the left
• Assisted one-arm-lockoff, 92%-98% of BW, 4 sets of 10-15s at different angles (170° -45°)

Fri: Rest

Sat: First outdoor and first climbing session since 3 months. Went back to my project Slimline (8a+) and felt suprisingly good on it. I was of course lacking technique and coordination, but i on static moves i felt much an could do a new linkup. Dymnamic power and specific pocket power is still lacking a little, but i am sure that will come back soon once i get the mileage in

Sun: L-Sit (floor) 2x20s, Handstands against the wall, 2x12 pike push-ups,  2x8 fingertips push ups, 15 Lunges, 30 normal pushups, 60s V-Sit-Ups; all-in all feeling quite well recovered despite a hard outdoor session yesterday

All in all, quite happy with this week. Fingerstrength is slowly increasing and my lockoff power made a decent jump forward. And most importantly, i still know how to climb and somehow felt stronger on the rock than last fall, although my hangboard numbers are slightly worse. So in the end, we maybe should not interpret too much into hangboard benchmarks, especially when we are taking about less than 10% differences.

Thanks Liam, and great one for taking on the stats.

Slightly busier week with training, but did a bit much at the end of the week, so feel a bit tweeky today.

M - Indoors - 6*10s Hangs +17.5kg. Couple of roped leads as I haven't done any for a while.  Onsight flashed a 7b.

Tues + Wed nothing

T - Outdoors working a 7c new project. Made good progress as on the first TR session a couple of months ago, I could not manage the crux move and this time I did it 3 times during working the route. But once it came to an RP attempt all the energy was gone.

F - Indoor Training - 6*10s Hangs +17.5kg. Then 3 x circuits of: 5*T's and 5*Y's, (front and back), 10 leg raises, 10 scalp pullup +17.5kg, 10 Press-up.

S - Indoor 1 x hour easy 6A/6B on the woody whilst my 6 year old was at a Trampoline party in the adjoining building.  Then took him out to Portishead Quarry where he cranked his way up Pickpocket (HVS 5a) Very proud.

S - Rest (from training)

Thanks Liam. Yeah, give me a shout if you’re out.

Feel like I should have done more this week. It’s been a busy week at work which hasn’t helped but I’m definitely running a pattern more like summer, when I basically either climb or rest, when I probably ought to be doing something nearer to the “something every day” Sharkathon model. I think I’m going to set a STG for the period up to Font of doing something every day again. Much as with Si, it would be good to shift a few pounds to get back to slightly nearer to fighting weight.

I’m terms of what I did, I got one last project problem done at the wall, and I got a few more routes done outside. Routes are probably where I want to be focusing this year, after a few years of primarily bouldering. Particularly given I am trying to avoid too much hard right hand crimping and can’t heel hook on my right heel currently (which is particularly annoying since my biggest boulder project for the year is one continuous series of right heel hooks!). Easier to do that at a lower intensity. I’m going to keep working on Bez though, although at some point it’s going to switch from a morning sun to evening or shade project once it gets warmer.

Monday - rest

Tuesday - also rest. As part of my avoidance of doom scrolling I had started reading a book and got a bit sucked in!

Wednesday - wall with miniAJM. Discovered I could just about keep the feet on on my cave pocket problem to get fingers into the second pocket - think tall thoughts and keep pushing into the feet - which allowed it to be a slightly more controlled cut loose: managed to do it within a few more goes. Then spent a bit of time trying a few other things, including a bit of time trying and comprehensively failing on a problem with a bat-hang start - just couldn’t get the toe hooks to bite at all. Loads of other people could, but my feet just slithered down the wood without biting at all. A little bit frustrating, some sort of knack to the move that just didn’t click I guess.

Thursday - rest

Friday - rest

Saturday - Portland. I was able to meet one local friend and a friend from uni that I hadn’t seen in over ten years, so it was a great day being able to catch up. Mixed weather (rain first thing at home, and a yellow weather warning for wind) plus a bit of generic faff meant a lunchtime start, but managed to nab a couple of routes in glorious sunshine with strong gusty blustery wind. Once the sun left the rock it got a bit colder and miniAJM decided he had had enough. I got the 6b+ done that I had fallen off with numb hands the last time I was out, which has a stiff pull through a bulge that’s a lot easier when you just get on with it.

Sunday - took both the kids out for lunch. About 6-7km of pram pushing plus usual wrangling with children, bikes et al. A nice day by the sea, bright and breezy but not too cold.

Thanks for the stats Liam. 

A reasonable few session last week with limited finger pain for a change.

M - Rest day

T - Zone 3 intervals on Zwift

W - Boulder Pyramid (8 X V2, 6 x V3, 4 x V4, 3 x V5, 2 x V6, 1 x V7)

T - Strength & conditioning (press ups 10 x 4 sets, pull ups 10 x 4 sets, twisting crunches 20 x 4 sets, russian twists 20 x 4 sets, hanging leg raises 10 x 4 sets, incline chest press 10 x 4 sets, deadlifts 5 x 4 sets)

F - Rest Day

S - First day of trad post A2 Pulley Rupture so taking things easy. We did Meringue (HVS 5a), Tyrone (VS 4c), Slippery Wall (HVS 5b) and Quantum Crack (HVS 5b). Had a go at Great Peter (E1 5b) but found that finger locking aggravates my pully at the moment - will be leaving it a few more weeks before tackling more finger cracks.

S - A sunny but very windy Zone 2 bike ride in The Forest of Bowland

Plan for next week:

M - Rest day

T - Boulder Pyramid

W - Routes endurance session

T - Rest day

F - Strength and conditioning

S - Moving house so lots of strength exercises carrying boxes!

S - As above... 

Thanks for stepping up Liam.

STG last week:
    - 2 x boulder, 1 x routes. Counting a circuits session as "routes" - which I do - yes
    - 1 x skiing. Gave the skiing a rest this week.
    - Sleep average >7½ hours, minimum 7 hours per night. Yes. 7.7 average

STG: coming week. 2 x boulder, 1 x routes. 1 x skiing if somewhat ok conditions. Sleep average >7½ hours, minimum 7 hours per night
MTG: 1H 2022: onsight 6c+
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M:    Rest
T:    Wall, Boulderwelt. Went in the afternoon and scored a quiet hour on the kilterboard, did a confidence-building voluume session on stuff I could mostly flash
W:    40 minutes box step-ups
T:    
F:    Wall, Boulderwelt. I'm counting this as a routes session, although in reality could equally well regard it as "long boulders" since i spent my time mostly working sections & links on hard circuits
S:    1½ hours hike/jog in the woods
S:    Bouldering, Frankenjura. Wanted to have a look at a boulder I nearly but not quite got a while back, which turned into quite the reality check. Previously I could link all but one move, but now - a few years older and a few kilos heavier - was reduced to projecting individual moves, limit bouldering style. Nice to be out in the woods though, and found the whole experience more motivating than depressing. The weight part of the age/weight equation is fixable at least. Odd weather - up to 20 degrees in the sun, but still icicles on some north facing sectors.

Some great problems there Ross, you have got me a bit psyched!

Did you try Rudeboy when you did duel dans la lune?

I think La Baleine is fairly conditions dependent, you need good friction on the rail.

Cheers! I tried Rudeboy once or twice but as I knew we were going to another crag later I opted to save my skin for that.

Yeah, getting the match on the lip was hard, though I don't think I had the best beta!

Hi Fit Club. Thanks for the stats, Liam, strong start to the statting!

Your comment about building slowly is a timely one -think I've slightly overdone the legwork this week, despite knowing that I need to go steady (and despite Biscuit's good advice on progressing gradually)!

Week 10:

A week that felt a bit crap, but looking back on it was actually ok.

M: Bouldering at Brimham. Started badly (everything greasier than expected, then trod in dog poo, then opened my mat to find I only had my comfy shoes, then got scared topping out sloping scrittle, then got lost -what a maze Brimham is!) but then the sun came out, I warmed up and things started looking up! Highlight was Cubic (f6A+) despite (or because of?!) the bottomless layer of moss on the upper half! Honourable mention to the brilliant Bellyflop (f6B+) which I didn't manage -need tips on heinous mantel technique! 

T: Elbow and shoulder prehab.

W: Hill run. 10.7km, 278m vert, 9:01/km. Got lost a lot. Pretty heinous terrain -bogs, brambles, barbed wire.

T: Elbow and shoulder prehab.

F: Max hangs. Weighted pull-ups. Leg conditioning. Shoulder prehab.

S: Hill run. 9.9km, 353m vert, 6:57/km. Felt amazing to be out.

S: Max hangs. Weighted Pull-ups. Core sesh.

Week 11:

Get properly stuck in to my leg conditioning: 3-4 sessions.

3 x either run or hill walk.

5 x Prehab.

2 x Core and Conditioning

2 x Max Hangs & Pull-ups

STG -end March:

Run my usual running loop.

Max Hangs: 90kg total.

Pull-ups: 95kg total.

Some Scottish winter routes -no longer fussy what... just anything white on tools!

MTG -end June:

Start endurance phase for arms.

Arc en ciel.

One of my big mountain day list.

2022 Arbitrary training goals:

Roll over of last year's running targets: 35km vert and 1000km.

Weighted Pull-up: 100kg.

Max Hangs: 95kg.

Weighted hill climb: 2 laps of RT in 30 mins with 15kg.

2022 Climbing goals:

7a (Possibly one of: Arc en Ciel, The Jim Grin, Rock & Roll, Clink)

ALL of my local must-do list: 0/15

Visit at least five of my 'why haven't I climbed here' list: 0/5

Get at least one session at each of my 'I should climb more at this crag' list: 0/8

Start properly getting to know: Brimham 1/3, Almscliff 0/3, Caley 0/3, Slipstones 1/3.

At least two days from big mountain list: 0/2.

Late summer/autumn alpine trip.

Something for a rainy day in Font - https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1106089301/climbing-top-trumps-playing-card...

Cheers Liam, Im firmly in the one kick per arm stroke school of thought. It works for me on a number of levels. Firstly im quite a big bloke so can generate a good bit of power through my upper body. Therefore any additional effort through the legs tends to end up as wasted energy in comparison to any speed gain. Ultimately i try to maximise power and efficiency to increase speed over distance. My other factor is i quite like doing triathlons so consider my swimming in part as training for this and as such want to save my legs in the swim for the cycling and running. 

Had a cracking week which went as follows;

Monday, 1km lunchtime swim

Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim

Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim, youngest daughters evening swim training time has altered to an earlier start so was actually able to do a trail run in the light, Had a fab explore of some new paths for a nice 7.5km run

Thursday, 1km swim and stretch class at lunchtime. Inspired by the previous days new routes i went out again whilst my daughter was swimming. Due to the later start i took my head torch and chest light as i knew i would be finishing in the dark. Still got 8km in on new trails. Will be nice to see them in the light 

Friday, 1km swim

Saturday, middle daughter has decided she wants to return to swim training which is fab. Just to be sure I took her to the pool at work to do a set before we stump up all the cash and buy new kit. Thankfully she worked through her set and was happy with it. As a bonus i was able to swim 3km whilst she did her stuff.  We did pause for chats through the session so not all in one go.

Sunday, she wanted to go back for another swim so I took her and got another 2km in whilst she swam. She starts back with the club next weekend so this is bit of a one off but nice none the less.

Thanks - it's pretty intense but I'm enjoying it so far. Trying to bear in mind that I need to progressively overload so can't just go all-out and expect to improve.

Hopefully I've recovered that weight by now!

Last week's goals:

• First week of 5 weeks of primarily strength training - so lots of bouldering. - Yes
• Project bouldering lends itself to outside sessions quite well - try some V3-V5 problems in the Peak - Yes
• 2 (non-climbing) gym sessions - One only
• 20km trail running - No

Next week - 

Great forecast tail end of the week so get outside as much as possible. Maybe try somewhere new.

• Two trad leads at E1 or above
• Three boulder attempts at f6B or above
• Two gym conditioning sessions
• One AeroPow circuits session
• 20km trail running

Last Week - 

Tuesday

Bouldering at Stanage Pop. Attempts on

• Cave Eliminate Start (f6A+)
• Desperation Start (f6A+)
• Suzanne (f6A)

Although I didn't complete any of these I felt I probably could have done with an extra mat or spotter. I think I need to go harder for strength training

Wednesday

Strength Pyramids at the Gym

• Weighted Pullups
• Front Squat
• Incline DB Press
• Deadlift

Friday

Bouldering at Substation. A couple of V5 graded problems and one of my friend's warmup routes on the system board.

Saturday

Trad at  Lawrencefield

A bit of an (over) ambitious start to the trad season with an attempt on Suspense (E2 5c) - but fairly solid apart from the crux, to which I failed to commit and slipped off. Will get it clean next time. Dial it back a bit - the E2s will come! Thanks @SteveJC94 for the photos

Sunday

AeroPow at AW Stockport. 4 sets double laps at 6a+. Should really have been 5 sets but ran out of time! 6a+ was possibly a bit easy on the vertical wall - mix in a couple of 6bs next time and add another set.

Also forgot i did a 5k run Sunday morning too 

Hello folks. Thanks SSB for your work in maintaining the thread, to Liam for taking over the reins and to all contributors for keeping at it.

I appreciate the advice regarding weighted yomps, Liam. With my ankle in mind (much better now thanks) I've been switching it up a bit.

It's been a hard week and real life events have been quite stressful which has affected my sleep quite badly. I've tweaked my left elbow somehow too so have been laying off the press-ups. Thankfully neither has affected my training too badly and my outings have been a tremendous help. 

So without further a doo...

Mon: Plank, press-ups, sit-ups.

Tues: Rest.

Wed: 5km fast hike. 22lb pack, 42min, 7kph av.
https://i.postimg.cc/RhsfP4yY/Screenshot-20220314-100753.png

Thurs: Plank, sit-ups.

Fri: 10km fast hike, no pack, 1:22, 7.3kph av.
https://i.postimg.cc/FKpKbG2W/Screenshot-20220314-100806.png

Sat: Plank, sit-ups.

Sun: 14km mountain fast hike, ~2.5k ft total ascent, 2:20.
https://i.postimg.cc/MGgzm49Y/Screenshot-20220314-002129.png

https://i.postimg.cc/8zVnQVCY/IMG-20220313-144619456-BURST000-COVER-TOP.jpg

Goals:

STG:

To keep walking as often as I can to gain fitness and lose weight.

To keep pushing my speed and pack weight as much as I can to make the most of my 2hr sessions.

To start easy bouldering again.

To enjoy the process.

MTG:

To venture back into the mountains.

To climb easy routes again.

LTG:

E1? (Slightly tongue in cheek but who knows, I'm not really looking that far ahead yet).

Edit: (think I managed to delete a block of text!)

I DID do Cubic (f6A+) which was brilliant (despite, or because of, the bottomless layer of moss on the upper section!)

The heinous mantel that I didn’t manage was Bellyflop (f6B+). 

Thanks for taking over Liam.

An odd week last week. I didn't feel at all recovered from my deload week. The comp at BUK seemed to absolutely smash me. 

I tried to climb on Monday but had nothing in the forearms.

Tuesday was marginally better but still nothing actually done.

Wednesday I got on the wooden 7b circuit. Not been on it since it was first put up and I was looking forward to crushing it after all my fitness work. I got absolutely spanked. I felt a bit better after being told it got 'tweaked' and was now really hard and the feet had polished up to a glass like finish.

Friday I went to Trowbarrow to try and touch some rock before I went away Red Traverse (7b+) I have done this before but it's about 50m long and I always find it quite beta intensive. I was quite pleased to quickly piece it together and gave it a really good go. I came off the crux when I went for a hold that wasn't there. It was just a foot pop and I pulled back on and finished it.

As I'd got massively pumped earlier trying to negotiate a wet bit, and couldn't take the rest just before the crux due to the hold being soaking, I was quite pleased with that. Rested a while and tried it the other way. Fell off as the beta is different going backwards. Skin v sore so bailed.

Saturday we walked the Kentmere Horseshoe and I hurt my knee and fell over. I initially thought it was really bad, but it turned out I was just being a bit soft. Limped the last mile or two back to the van for effect and sympathy.

Sunday was a boulder at Kendal followed by some foot on campus PE work. Knee was OK until i did a dyno off it and fully extended it. Stopped bouldering after that.

An odd week really. I had a bad deload week as my sleep was really poor - no idea why. And the Plywood Masters took it out of me.

Less than a week to go now. Although the last couple of weeks won't have gone to plan I'm hoping the efforts over the weeks before will have a decent effect.

This week will be taking care of my knee and doing some foot on campussing before the trip on Saturday.

Thanks Liam, a short training plan is not a bad idea. Let's see if I can stick to it.

All in all a decent week from me. Managed my two sessions plus a bit of extra stuff.

Mon: Rest  

Tue: 1 h+ endurance board up to 6b+. Felt pretty good and controlled. Core w/ sling trainer, Kettlebell DL 3x10@16kg, Overhead press 3x10@20kg. Tried to do pull-ups and push-ups but somehow ran out of steam quickly. I've not quite figured out how and when to eat enough for sessions straight after work.

Wed: 45 min Crosstrainer  

Thu: Rest

Fri: Unplanned rest day because of work.

Sat: tried to go up Central Gully (I) but turned around before starting the climb because of the conditions. Bit frustrating but was still good to be out. Some core and lower back in the evening.

Sun: gym, endurance board for half an hour, then some easy Boulder problems with a mate who is new to climbing. 5x5 pull-ups@BW, 3x15 push-ups.

Have a good week!

Thanks for picking up from SSB Liam.  No doubt another tough act to follow in     June.  

Outdoor climbing was fantastic- one session just soloing on the edges and one session on a rope at last.  Just joyful being out with a blue sky and Spring in the air.  Found things hard, but I always take a few sessions to get going and pleased to do a 6b in the mix.

all this had a surprising impact on work though (that and some ministerial moving of goalposts, so only a couple of walks and a good long stint of gardening to show.  I am still avoiding putting much real load on my left elbow to give my bursitis a chance.  It does occur to me that I could try Randy’a one arm method, but it will have to wait until work eases.

Biscuit - I know you are away soon and no rush, but is my elbow niggle in your field?  If so, happy to set up a consultation when you return.

Good effort going on Suspense so early in the year.  Plenty of people say that the crux of Suspense is also the crux of Pool Wall, though that may be because of what it follows.

Liked your E2 targets as well, though they were tough ones to focus upon.  Do them and many E3’s will feel fine 😀

Quick and easy for me this week. Had a light week due to spending the weekend in Scotland but decided to call it on the Friday due to the forecast.

Mon

• Heel rehab bits: Romanian Deadlift 3x8 (30kg), Calf Raises 3x 24, Single Leg Glute Bridges  3x 15.

Wed

• 45mins Swim. Tried the 2-Beat Flutter Kick again but looked like a landed salmon.

Sat

• Some token Lattice Block work due to the last-minute change in weekend plans. 6x 8s Pinch (13.5kg), 6x 25s 20mm (30kg).

By all accounts it sounds like we made the right decision postponing the Scotland trip. Also kept my powder dry, and Brownie Points in the bank, for this weekend which is looking very good!

 Pretty solid E2 choice.  Far far easier options out there IMHO.

Thanks for the stats. 

I'm away on holiday this week.  Can't remember an awful lot about last week: Got over the lurgy. Did some deadlifts. Got some DOMS. Had a reasonable board session (Ticked a 7C/+ and good links on a 7C+/8A benchmark).

Full 2 week report next time. 

I don't think it was you that deleted it.  Something weird has happened with the forums, part of my post has disappeared too.

Oh weird! Thought I’d just managed to delete the middle of the sentence when I was inserting the climb links. Glad it’s not just me being computer illiterate!

I think the rest of the post was right though. 

Thanks Liam.

M: Nothing 

T: PyB

W: Nothing

T: Nothing

F: Scans, had all my MRI and x-rays but the consultant who was supposed to do my ultrasound had covid so will need to go back for that. Spent afternoon in Depot intending to try all Reds, managed 18 but that still left about 10 although at least 6 of them were slabs I could not do because my toes were playing up.

S: Cnicht from Tanygrisiau, belting views but the middle bit of the walk has some PIA unpathed bog. More concerning was how hard going I found it. 
S: Faffy day which was enlivened by finally getting to borrow my dads chainsaw! This is a fun activity although I’ll still need a tree surgeon for most of the work. 
Decided on Friday to clean up my diet to try and improve my arthritis inflammation. Doing a full elimination diet seems impossible to me. 

I reckon unpathed bog is always going to be hard going.

There are lots of clinicians doing podcasts on Keto / low carb or intermittent fasting with increasing amounts of data linking processed carbs to inflammation (and all associated chronic disease that follows).  Maybe worth a look as people report very quick changes to their health markers.

Should also have said that weight loss is impressively easy without seeming like a diet at all - really just a change of eating pattern for me.  I won’t go back

I was just looking through an older Fit Club entry from myself and found a comment of mine had sections deleted.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fitclub_week_780-74471...

I'll see if I can send a support email this evening, it wouldn't be ideal if historic posts were mangled. I know I've gotten great value from old esoteric UKC and UKB threads over the years!

Thanks Derek, unfortunately I’m weak willed with a sweet tooth so dieting is never less than a chore and rarely successful but somethings got to give and I appreciate the encouragement.