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Hi
When I was at Beacon Climbing I noticed that the Kilter board had big holds and I am wondering if it can be used to build upper body strength and power.
What are peoples thoughts on the Kilterboard?
There are a few walls in London that have a KB including the recently opened Boardroom Climbing in Wimbledon and EustonWall.
Bye
YVBIL
Post edited at 13:55
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Brilliant, The one I used was 50degrees, very ergonomic holds and user friendly perfect for developing power.
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I find it great. Love the ability to try something at gradually steeper angles and notice how much harder it gets - I flashed my current project at 10° and 15°, 20° took me two sessions and I'm currently working on 25°
The downsides - sharing the board is tricky, you either need to get on it at times when it's quiet, or be with somebody who wants to do similar grades/angles. And some of the grading, especially at lower grades and angles, is ludicrously random.
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
They are great, holds are finger friendly so less chance of injury, I also like the way the holds light up so foot holds are easy to see (better than just an led up der the hold ) . Worth noting that not all kilterboards are of the adjustable angle variety if that's a key feature you are after. The one I've used in Sheffield is, however it also has been broken quite a lot which is slightly annoying if you've gone specifically for that and it's stuck at a different angle.
Like all boards of that kind, they are for developing power, hard explosive moves etc rather than endurance
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> When I was at Beacon Climbing I noticed that the Kilter board had big holds and I am wondering if it can be used to build upper body strength and power.
Yep, it definitely can. That's exactly what it's for. Haven't had access to one until fairly recently but now I'm sold.
For me it's the best of the many variants because the holds are the least injurific and you don't get the 'everything's a pinch' kind of training you're stuck with on most woodys. Plus I find there ends up being loads more variety than you get on a moon board because on those at below V9 there's realistically only half a dozen moves you can string together in very few different ways.
Other opinions are available.
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In reply to climber34neil:
> Like all boards of that kind, they are for developing power, hard explosive moves etc rather than endurance
They do have a circuits feature in the app. I tried it once and disliked it intensely. There's no facility to see the whole thing at once; it only lights up a few holds at a time, the newly lit holds can be difficult to see from above and it doesn't have (or I didn't see) any way to adjust the pace.
In reply to Jackspratt:
> Brilliant, The one I used was 50degrees, very ergonomic holds and user friendly perfect for developing power.
The ones that I have are fixed, I think, at 45 degrees. There is one in AWCC Sheffield where the user can change the angle.
Decent footholds too!
YVBIL
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In reply to AlanLittle:
I didn't know that, although doesn't sound particularly helpful if it doesn't light up! Is it supposed to light up in sequence as you climb? Could get confusing otherwise I guess
In reply to AlanLittle:
> I find it great. Love the ability to try something at gradually steeper angles and notice how much harder it gets - I flashed my current project at 10° and 15°, 20° took me two sessions and I'm currently working on 25°
The one at EustonWall is fixed (at an angle) and so is the one at Beacon Climbing but I am not sure about the one at Boardroom Climbing - I will check out the centre on Friday. The AWCC Sheffied one is adjustable.
> The downsides - sharing the board is tricky, you either need to get on it at times when it's quiet, or be with somebody who wants to do similar grades/angles. And some of the grading, especially at lower grades and angles, is ludicrously random.
When I've been to a wall with a KB there are just a few people using it.
YVBIL
In reply to climber34neil:
> They are great, holds are finger friendly so less chance of injury, I also like the way the holds light up so foot holds are easy to see (better than just an led up der the hold ) . Worth noting that not all kilterboards are of the adjustable angle variety if that's a key feature you are after. The one I've used in Sheffield is, however it also has been broken quite a lot which is slightly annoying if you've gone specifically for that and it's stuck at a different angle.
I love the size of the grey holds and the lighting up is a great feature. Apart the one in the AWCC Sheffield training area, the ones I have seen are at a fixed angle. Is it the AWCC Sheffield one or the one at The Climbing Hangar Sheffied?
> Like all boards of that kind, they are for developing power, hard explosive moves etc rather than endurance
Yep, circuit boards and splatter boards are used for building endurance.
YVBIL
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In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:
>
> Yep, it definitely can. That's exactly what it's for. Haven't had access to one until fairly recently but now I'm sold.
The big holds really sold it for me.
> For me it's the best of the many variants because the holds are the least injurific and you don't get the 'everything's a pinch' kind of training you're stuck with on most woodys. Plus I find there ends up being loads more variety than you get on a moon board because on those at below V9 there's realistically only half a dozen moves you can string together in very few different ways.
At CanaryWall there is a woody with mainly pinches homand crimpy pinches and the other one is woody has a variety of holds but is steeper. I have the App and there are problems of all grades.
> Other opinions are available.
YVBIL
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Awesome walls has the adjustable board ( when it works )
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In reply to AlanLittle:
I have made up my own circuits 50 hand moves.@15-20 degrees aerobic capacity then any steeper (for me )it becomes anaerobic and the number of hand moves reduce.For unroped endurance training fantastic imo
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In reply to climber34neil:
When I was there it was working. What do you think of the new training area at AWCC Sheffied? I was very impressed with it.
YVBIL
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
> The ones that I have are fixed, I think, at 45 degrees.
That's a shame, all of my local ones are tiltable, and the tilting is one of the big plus points for me. Not cheap though - my son works at one of the local walls, and he told me theirs cost around 70k€ each.
Post edited at 09:39
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I haven't been so I've no idea. I only go to the depot for training/indoor climbing. That has everything I need, the rest of the time I go to the crag
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In reply to racodemisa:
> I have made up my own circuits 50 hand moves.@15-20 degrees aerobic capacity then any steeper (for me )it becomes anaerobic and the number of hand moves reduce.For unroped endurance training fantastic imo
Interesting
YVBIL
Post edited at 10:58
In reply to climber34neil:
> I haven't been so I've no idea. I only go to the depot for training/indoor climbing. That has everything I need, the rest of the time I go to the crag
Wait a minute!...
.... Then, how do you know AWCC Sheffield has a tilting Kilterboard? 🤔😮 Are you linked to you know who in anyway?
When I am in Sheffield, I indoor climb and train at the Depot. The same goes for me - apart from having a suspension trainer rather than gym rings. I have been to a crag a few times - twice to Burbage North and once to Stanage. So, you don't indoor lead climb then?!
YVBIL
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Rarely, I prefer to do that at the crag, but if I do then it is at the foundry
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In reply to AlanLittle:
> > The ones that I have are fixed, I think, at 45 degrees.
> That's a shame, all of my local ones are tiltable, and the tilting is one of the big plus points for me. Not cheap though - my son works at one of the local walls, and he told me theirs cost around 70k€ each.
It is a shame, but never mind. Around 60k in pound sterling is expensive. If you space abs the money you can buy one for your place.
https://serious-climbing.com/products/home-wall-kilter-board-7x10-mainline-...
YVBIL
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In reply to climber34neil:
> Rarely, I prefer to do that at the crag, but if I do then it is at the foundry
I have lead climbed at The Foundry a few times. Which crags do you climb at?
YVBIL
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Not as good as the Moonboard for what I want to do IMHO...
My reasoning is that in order to get the same training benefit with its holds you need to tilt to super steep (if tiltable) and that's just not the kind of climbing I'm training for - specificity wise, for most UK route climbing the Moonboard 25 seems far more relevant (although the 40 is good fun as long as you leave your ego at the door)...
Just my opinion....
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In reply to Duncan Disorderly:
> Not as good as the Moonboard for what I want to do IMHO...
I used the Moon Board set at Arch Building 1 once and that was the only time I used a Moon Board.
> My reasoning is that in order to get the same training benefit with its holds you need to tilt to super steep (if tiltable) and that's just not the kind of climbing I'm training for - specificity wise, for most UK route climbing the Moonboard 25 seems far more relevant (although the 40 is good fun as long as you leave your ego at the door)...
> Just my opinion....
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
All over really, I'm based in the Peak so there are quality crags , sport, trad, boulder and of course the best of all, dry tooling all on my doorstep
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
The Kilter Board is great. More enjoyable than the tweaky holds on the Moon board, but perhaps not so good for training the straight on style of nasty crimping the Moon board replicated quite well.
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In reply to climber34neil:
Great stuff. I need to get out on rock more. Are you a fan of RT and WCJ?
I might head to Parisella's Cave next week?
YVBIL
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Yes definitely, all great crags/areas
In reply to climber34neil:
> Yes definitely, all great crags/areas
All have easy approaches too!
I'm psyched for Cave of Justice. 💪💪💪💪
YVBIL
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In reply to LucaC:
> The Kilter Board is great. More enjoyable than the tweaky holds on the Moon board, but perhaps not so good for training the straight on style of nasty crimping the Moon board replicated quite well.
With all the great stuff I've read about it, I am psyched to get on it one.
YVBIL
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I assume you mean the tooling cave at masson ?
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
What does YVBIL mean or stand for?
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In reply to climber34neil:
> I assume you mean the tooling cave at masson ?
Nope, the sea cave in Llandudno where John Gaskin's son has done hard as nailz stuff.
YVBIL
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In reply to Fraser:
> What does YVBIL mean or stand for?
Go on.
Have a guess?
I'll DM you afterwards with what the abbrevs stand for.
YVBIL
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Oh I see, tooling is the only true path to enlightenment of course
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I was wondering that as well
In reply to climber34neil:
I have done a bit of DT at Ellis Brigham in Covent Garden but it was more like mixed climbing.
YVBIL
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In reply to climber34neil:
> I was wondering that as well
I think 🤔 , by what you said it your previous message, you know something about YVBIL.
Here is a clue:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/can_a_problem_be_a_route_and_a_...
YVBIL
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In reply to climber34neil:
> Still no idea I'm afraid, how about
> "You're very big in London "?
Well I am well known at a few walls.
Didn't you see the video?
YVBIL
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I guess not
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Vatican city flag??, still no idea
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In reply to climber34neil:
> Vatican city flag??, still no idea
¡Bien hecho, ya sabes lo que significa la V!
Clue 2: Joven en inglés is the Y.
YVBIL
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Well done, young man ?
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In reply to climber34neil:
> Well done, young man ?
Well, Y does stand for young. 😀
Have you worked out what BIL stands for?!
YVBIL
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Young Version (of) Brown In Llanberis?
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Went to The Boardroom Wimbledon today and their Kilterboard has not been set up yet. ☹️
But Aldgate City Bouldering has one! 😀💪
YVBIL
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In reply to McHeath:
> Young Version (of) Brown In Llanberis?
I wish!
I was in Llanberis in mid-ish may but I went to V12 and not Joe Browns!
You know what it stands for don't you?! 😉
YVBIL
Post edited at 22:45
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Youthful virility battered in lard
9
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I'm guessing "bathes in larger '?
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In reply to climber34neil:
Nope, I am dry - I didn't even have an alcoholic drink on NYE.
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I've no idea then
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Por que estás escribiendo en Español on UKC? 😂😂😂
In reply to jezb1:
Me gusta practicar la escritura en español y a alguien no le gusta que mencione a cierto escalador conocido
¿Sabes qué escalador no puedo mencionar?
YVBIL
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
No me importa que escalador, lo siento!
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In reply to climber34neil:
YV is on something attached to a harness but can be found bouldering in The Peak or more recently international comps.
YVBIL
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Not a clue, especially if y is young
In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Young virile boys in lycra?
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In reply to Bulls Crack:
Well I have known YV since he was a teenager climbing hard as nailz. I met him at a party in a medieval building with defenses.
He does like to show his and use his 💪💪.
YVBIL
Post edited at 22:37
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In reply to climber34neil:
> Not a clue, especially if y is young
He hasn't climbed 9a yet but I hope he will RP Hubble (9a) soon.
YVBIL
Post edited at 22:33
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In reply to Mountain Spirit:
Jim Pope Bouldering In Llandudno.
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In reply to plyometrics:
> Jim Pope Bouldering In Llandudno.
YV is JP!....
....But he is not joining me this time as he is off to KI for IFSC comp mid week.
I am not sure if CoJ is his bag but he has bouldered on limestone including at Crag X (Derbyshire) .
YVBIL
Post edited at 09:58
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