UKC

Cloggy - The Black Cleft

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 Flavio 12 Jun 2023

It looks like there's been quite a bit of activity on Cloggy the last few days/weeks during this dry spell. Has anyone walked past the 'Black Cleft' and can report on it's conditions please? Is it still a continuous water stream or is it just dripping? Asking for a friend...

 LucaC 12 Jun 2023
In reply to Flavio:

Sopping wet last Wednesday. 

 LucaC 12 Jun 2023
In reply to LucaC:

And also now pouring down in Llanberis.

In reply to Flavio:

You don’t want it out of condition, surely? As I believe I posted once before, it’s a great route unless dry.

jcm

 ianstevens 13 Jun 2023
In reply to LucaC:

> Sopping wet last Wednesday. 

Perfect conditons

OP Flavio 13 Jun 2023
In reply to LucaC:

Great, thanks, just as I expected

Below is a little account of the route from the late Al Evans, which I think is worth re-sharing:

Was once climbing in Wales with Ron Fawcett and it had pissed it down solidly for a week. We decided that the route to go and do was Black Cleft on Cloggy, reasoning that as its always wet anyhow and got its XS grade for that state it would make no difference.

After nearly killing ourselves getting to the bottom of the thing, Ron set off up the first pitch (after eyeing up a 'new line' on the right wall, now done) and proceeded to gain height as I gradually disappeared under a mass of dislodged grass sods and various other botanical and entomological specimens. Just as I was about to be buried alive in this onslaught of mud and detritus I felt a tug on the rope and realised Ron wanted me to follow the pitch. The water pouring down both from the sky and on the rock cleaned me off a treat and I set off on the pitch which was now a good few feet shorter than when Ron did it, I haven't got a clue what grade the pitch would be in the dry but it was absolutely desperate. In some cases so much debris had been washed down and lodged back into the crack that I literally had to dig into it to find the nut placements so I could remove them.

When I got to the stance, Ron was pissing himself at the state of me, handed over the remaining rack and said "Off you go then".

Right you bastard I'll see how you like it. Less than 15ft up the crack and Ron was already virtually covered head to foot in the disgusting smelling gunge. I was hanging from a nut trying to dislodge a particularly stubborn grass overhang, and Ron said "what do you reckon we go down?"

"Yeh, I really am having fun but at this rate it'll be dark before we get to the top, there's nobody else on the crag, we've as good as done it (there was about a 100ft to go at least)".

I lowered off leaving the nut and we abbed down and ran straight into Llyn Arddu with all our clothes on and just washed the mud and slime off Iit was strangely warm, like monsoon rain, or maybe by now we were delirious.

In the pub that night "Yeh great route, you wanna go and do it, but do it in the rain, its graded for being wet anyhow" :-0)

The next 12 days it was perfect weather.

 Sean Kelly 13 Jun 2023
In reply to Flavio:

Brilliant!


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