UKC

Good savings

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 dinodinosaur 10 Dec 2023

What is a good weight saving on a rack (sport quickdraws in this context) and when are you just chasing numbers that will make no difference to actual performance.  

I've managed to save 0.25kg over 12 qds on my sport rack, down from 1.25kg. Whilst this may sound pointless, is the old adage true that every little help over the length of a 30-40m route?

What say UKC?

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2
 snoop6060 10 Dec 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

I just get my mate to put them in. 

In reply to dinodinosaur:

I've managed to reduce weight by 16kg since March, & although every little bit does help, I don't feel as though any particular 250g has been crucial. But I'm a 60 year old climber of very moderate ability...... 250g might make all the difference to you or someone else 

In reply to dinodinosaur:

Easy to save multiples of that by going to the loo.

2
 AlanLittle 10 Dec 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

I worry about weight for my trad & alpine rack. For sport I prefer to go for beefy, reassuring-looking and easy to grab.

 james1978 10 Dec 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Go for a long run or bike ride and save £££s!

1
 NaCl 10 Dec 2023
In reply to Ennerdaleblonde:

Someone says this every time this subject comes up. I would answer the comment by saying I can save some weight and have a sh*t thusly saving even more. 

2
 Ian Parsons 11 Dec 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

> I've managed to save 0.25kg over 12 qds on my sport rack, down from 1.25kg. Whilst this may sound pointless, is the old adage true that every little help over the length of a 30-40m route?

Buy your kit from Tesco. "Every little helps!" Or is it "Every Lidl helps"? Not sure - although the latter would be somewhat confusing.

1
 deacondeacon 11 Dec 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

When really pushing your limits In Sport Climbing you'll typically have the draws in already. Big, beefy, grabbable draws are much more useful than skinny, lightweight ones. They're easier to grab when dogging and are less likely to rotate into a 'back-clipping' position.

2
OP dinodinosaur 11 Dec 2023
In reply to deacondeacon:

Not if you're pushing your onsighting limits on long routes and the draws aren't conveniently already in

5
In reply to dinodinosaur:

My two penneth worth is that saving 250g is never going to be the deciding factor for me, or for 99% of climbers

2
 C Witter 11 Dec 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Sport "rack"? 🤔

4
 Misha 12 Dec 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Take your lightweight trad draws if you’re going for that kind of onsight. 

 George_Surf 12 Dec 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Nothing! The petzl ange dogbones are nice and light. Really you just want a nice solid draw you can bang in and go. Even for 40m routes with 15-20 draws…. 

2
 Z12 12 Dec 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

One of the biggest gains you can make on long routes is to reduce rope drag. So, counterintuitively, you might need a few longer (heavier) draws on your rack. And a decent slippery rope.

 MischaHY 12 Dec 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

I always thought it wouldn’t make a difference but ended up always taking my Ange QuickDraws on onsights because they’re so much lighter and easier to rack. When you’re taking 18-20 draws it really makes a difference. DMM Alpha sport would be 2.5kg for 20, Ange would be 1.5kg.

1
 Michael Hood 12 Dec 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Not sure that the actual weight loss will make much difference, but when you feel light - both in body weight and with gear - you also somehow feel right, and everything seems more likely to flow to a successful conclusion.


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