What is a good weight saving on a rack (sport quickdraws in this context) and when are you just chasing numbers that will make no difference to actual performance.
I've managed to save 0.25kg over 12 qds on my sport rack, down from 1.25kg. Whilst this may sound pointless, is the old adage true that every little help over the length of a 30-40m route?
I've managed to reduce weight by 16kg since March, & although every little bit does help, I don't feel as though any particular 250g has been crucial. But I'm a 60 year old climber of very moderate ability...... 250g might make all the difference to you or someone else
Someone says this every time this subject comes up. I would answer the comment by saying I can save some weight and have a sh*t thusly saving even more.
> I've managed to save 0.25kg over 12 qds on my sport rack, down from 1.25kg. Whilst this may sound pointless, is the old adage true that every little help over the length of a 30-40m route?
Buy your kit from Tesco. "Every little helps!" Or is it "Every Lidl helps"? Not sure - although the latter would be somewhat confusing.
When really pushing your limits In Sport Climbing you'll typically have the draws in already. Big, beefy, grabbable draws are much more useful than skinny, lightweight ones. They're easier to grab when dogging and are less likely to rotate into a 'back-clipping' position.
Nothing! The petzl ange dogbones are nice and light. Really you just want a nice solid draw you can bang in and go. Even for 40m routes with 15-20 draws….
One of the biggest gains you can make on long routes is to reduce rope drag. So, counterintuitively, you might need a few longer (heavier) draws on your rack. And a decent slippery rope.
I always thought it wouldn’t make a difference but ended up always taking my Ange QuickDraws on onsights because they’re so much lighter and easier to rack. When you’re taking 18-20 draws it really makes a difference. DMM Alpha sport would be 2.5kg for 20, Ange would be 1.5kg.
Not sure that the actual weight loss will make much difference, but when you feel light - both in body weight and with gear - you also somehow feel right, and everything seems more likely to flow to a successful conclusion.
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