UKC

Quiet crags where I can setup top rope in the Peak

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 edhawk21 06 Jun 2023

As the title says . Is there any quiet crags I could setup a top rope ( I don't like doing it but i want to try some harder moves before getting on lead) without worrying about offending anyone or getting in the way of people wanting to lead? I was thinking Birchen as I know lots of clubs use it but its getting a bit worn in paces so I don't want to add to the erosion. 

Open to recommendations. 

 deepsoup 06 Jun 2023
In reply to edhawk21:

I think you're overthinking it a bit, you can set up a top rope anywhere you want to.  As long as you're not damaging the rock or hogging your route for hours on end nobody is going to get offended by that.  Do you have any specific routes in mind?  Or style of climbing? 

One thing to maybe bear in mind is that once you've been on a route on a top rope the onsight is gone, so maybe steer clear of anything that you might like to lead onsight in the future.

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 deacondeacon 06 Jun 2023
In reply to edhawk21:

Just go anywhere you like. I'd recommend only top roping no star & 1 star routes as you can save the good ones for when you're leading (they're also less likely to have people on them.

Personally, I'd recommend Stanage. It's really easy to find a nice quiet spot, it can often get a breeze to keep the midges away and the no star routes tend ro still be decent.

 Toccata 06 Jun 2023
In reply to edhawk21:

Anywhere you want at 0500. Works for me. Usually home before anyone else turns up.

 Mini Mansell 06 Jun 2023
In reply to edhawk21:

Wharncliffe.

you are very likely to be the only climber there (i often am)

 tehmarks 06 Jun 2023
In reply to edhawk21:

As per everyone else you can go wherever you like, but if you're looking for a quiet crag for personal reasons (I much prefer climbing in solitude, toprope or otherwise) then Baslow is a very pleasant and quiet bit of grit. Plenty of walkers across the top, but the crag itself is 'sheltered' from them and the only people likely to be at the foot of the crag are climbers. And you're quite likely to be the only climber there.

I'd say it's more about when you go (which I appreciate is hard to control with work) and how you do it. I've done plenty of top roping in my time but I have one route at Birchen I've never been able to lead because someone always has a TR up on it for ages (Trafalgar Crack). I've also been actively leading elsewhere (a Severe at the Roaches) and had a group turn up above and below me loudly waiting to set up a TR (very off-putting when I was pushing my grade on a really runout section, there was noone else there when I started leading, and I eventually ended up just feeling too pressured).

Basically, you can do it anywhere, just a) don't hog all the starred routes, b) if you have a group, don't make a racket around someone already leading and c) proactively think about not leaving your rope there when you're not using it - the burden shouldn't be on others to come over and ask you to take it down.

It doesn't sound like you're intending to do this at all anyway, just sharing my reflections fwiw.

I was at Wharncliffe on Sunday and it was pretty busy with quite a lot of us queuing for the same c. VD routes (everyone seemed to want to get on Black Slab, self included) but there was a club there and I get the impression it would have been much less busy otherwise, we just all had the same idea. A bit of the luck of the draw tbh - you can easily end up with one group all going to the area that everyone thinks will be quiet (eg High Neb).

Good luck and thanks for thinking about this. 

Post edited at 23:46
 heleno 07 Jun 2023
In reply to tehmarks:

Another vote for Baslow, a very quiet crag

 Monk 07 Jun 2023
In reply to edhawk21:

The problem people have with top ropes is when they hog popular routes. If you are considerate and not a massive group, I don't think you will have problems anywhere really (but being considerate is perhaps steering clear of low to mid grade 3 star classics on a nice weekend). Last week I went top roping with my kids at Windgather - it was great and no hassle. 

 Graham Booth 07 Jun 2023
In reply to edhawk21:

There were two top-ropes left at fecking pop end last Sunday… I wouldn’t worry!


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