UKC

UKC Fit Club Week 864

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 Ross Barker 08 Oct 2023

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_863-7644...

Good evening everyone, some quality fingerboard and campus chit chat going on last week! Possibly not so good with a couple people picking up new or tweaking existing ailments, but I'm sure they'll heal in good time.

Derek Furze: Glad to see you getting moving again, and good work on hitting your run target. Improving max hangs is always a plus! Shame about picking up a bug, seem to be a couple of those going around at the moment, hopefully it clears up quickly for you.

Somerset swede basher: I'm half keen for Brass Monkeys as well. The drive puts me off, as well as the expectation that I probably could/should be able to do it in one more session (a dangerous mindset to have when it's such an investment to get to!). Glad to see you making good use of the time in Eryri, even if the weather was a bit naff. Did you catch the dry in the afternoon or were you back off home by then?

inglesp: Sorry to hear you've been taken ill, but positive to hear you're on the way back up. Hopefully you'll ease back into climbing without issue.

mattrm: Thank you for validating my nervousness around cattle! Good increase of mileage even if it's been reduced by the cow incident, you're on a good track to reach your mileage goals - how's the shoulder doing now?

Tom Green: Strength and prehab sessions are indeed basic, but quite comprehensive as far as hitting the main climbing muscles. I could see how you might not be firing on all cylinders if you go climbing the next day, especially if sleep or diet isn't quite perfect. A "mediocre" week that still includes 3 days on the rock sounds pretty decent to me, the bouldering and hard sport can be enough of a training session most of the time anyway!

Ian Parnell: Pleased to see the rhomboid tweak has sorted itself out. Second half of the week sounded pretty good, packed in some quality training and rock-inspecting. Feeling clunky after illness is pretty common generally, I'm sure you'll be moving well again in no time.

Ally Smith: Yeowch, inopportune Covid timing, but pleased to hear it's not knocking anyone too hard. Strong return to the board, but unfortunate wrist situation, presumably the same one from the past couple weeks, was there a particular diagnosis and rehab plan for it?

Tyler: Really sorry to hear you've pulled the elbow again. Hopefully it's settling this week and you've not put yourself too far back. Inspiring tales of Chris, I know sometimes I struggle to really try hard and give everything 100%, especially when the pump starts to appear (alarmingly soon, as a boulderer), so fingers crossed that elbow isn't too bad and you can soon be trying proper hard!

Liam P: Good shout to change stimulus when plateauing. Excellent consecutive bouldering on the weekend, be careful not too overcook it! That said, have you been able to return to Knuckle Duster with the decent weather later this week?

Randy: Rest is good, glad you've been doing it (even though it may not be by choice ) hope you're feeling okay enough to tentatively return to the training and rehab.

Steve Claw: Nice work on the highball! I'd say French 7a+ is about Font 6C, based on my experience with Slobberlob, a (softish?) bouldery 7b. Cracking week getting the whole family on the leads, next generation of Avon crushers inbound? With the elbow joint, any idea what the issue is, it doesn't sound like a tendonitis sort of thing from your brief description?

biscuit: Sounds like a hard week, lots of not feeling quite right and getting overrun. Maybe some sort of post-viral thing? Good tenacity to keep at the training and conditioning though! Good Leonidio training plan, and good shout on trusting the process, it's too easy to try a plan for a week or two and sack it off!

the sheep: Solid week, usual swims and good effort on the half marathon. Hope you're wife's IT band issues can get sorted. What's the next goal/event/adventure on the plan?

SteveJC94: I hope by "rest" at the wedding you mean "throwing shapes on the dancefloor until 3am" - but great to see you're back on the wall. How did the finger feel? Taking it easy of course, but it doesn't sound like it was too bad, which must be positive after so long. Passable cardio fitness sure is a thing, but upon comparing our running pace I have decided to not comment any further

AlanLittle: Pretty good week by the sounds of things, recovered from illness, boshed out a few Kilter problems, and embarked on a bivvy tour! I've not a clue about any of the locations mentioned but if they weren't great you probably wouldn't go - hope it was fun!

AJM: Sorry to hear about the waning motivation, especially with the summer weather being a bit of a flop compared to previous years. Can't win them all! A reset sounds in good order, let the psyche naturally return and you'll be grand.

Fishmate: A wild lurker has appeared!

Post edited at 22:30
 Derek Furze 08 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

Great work Ross - far too tired to post now, but will sort out something tomorrow.  

 Tyler 08 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

> I know sometimes I struggle to really try hard and give everything 100%, especially when the pump starts to appear

I think boulderers are good at trying hard, just not for very long maybe! I tend to be too concerned about preserving energy for the rest of a climb that I hold back and fall off (more likely slump).

This week my main aim was to rest and for once I stuck to that, though sadly there was little improvement in my arm after the first day or so, I think I’ve properly tooled it. 
I had plans for climbing both days at the weekend but sat and watched rugby instead until I noticed it was amazing weather so went and did Sub-Cneifion Rib (VD) and Cneifion Arete (D) which felt a bit of an anti climax after SCR.

Today I did Africa Rib (VD) but wasn’t feeling it so went and picked up some scaffold instead of carrying on with other routes I had my eye. I’m not comfortable soloing these easy routes which is annoying but I am getting full value from them and so enjoying some really rewarding days out.

Post edited at 23:24
 AlanLittle 09 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross. Karwendel was a good outing, though not quite as planned ... 

STG: Autumn '23 tick my first 7a in two years, and/or something from my (long) local 6c+ projects list
MTG: Summer '24 uk trad trip with my son and/or Rough Bounds Scottish backpacking trip
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823
LTG: Winter 24 or 25 - do an actual off piste ski tour.

M: Long weekend Karwendel bivvy tour Day Two. Birkkarspitze, Ödkarspitze. From this point on the trip was dominated by water logistics. The Karwendel being  limestone there's no surface water above the treeline. The spot where I intended to bivvy had reliable year round snow on my previous trips, for which I had made sure to bring plenty of gas. But that was then, this is now, and reliable year round snow at 2500 metres is a thing of the past in 2023. I should have anticipated this in my trip planning, but didn't, so in the afternoon I had to drop back down to the hut to fill up all my water bottles - several hundred metres of extra vert down, and back up in the evening with a very heavy bag. 

T: Long weekend Karwendel bivvy tour Day Three. My intention was to traverse the western end of the main ridge over four summits, two of which I skipped due to weather the last time I was in these parts. After breakfast I only had enough water left to get me up the Breitgrieskarspitze - pleasant easy scramble - after which I once again dropped down several hundred metres, to the highest stream marked on the map. Not so much as a trickle. And frankly even if there had been, I don't think by this stage I would really have had the energy or motivation to plod all the way back up again. The Larchetkarspitze will have to wait. 
    Instead, on to the Pleisen hut, down to the railway station, and home. But, this being the Karwendel, even the "path" to the hut involves several passages of character building choss scrambling. So still a full day's entertainment.
    Not quite as I planned in terms of summit glory, but three days out in wild & spectacular alpine scenery, with a bivvy. And rather like in Knoydart last month: long weekend, perfect weather, huts packed - but away from the immediate vicinity of the huts I only saw a handful of people each day

W:    Rest day!

T:    Wall, Thalkirchen routes. Met up with a friend I haven't seen for a while. Since I've mostly bouldered and barely had a rope on for weeks, it was no surprise that I felt strong and moving ok, but burned out quickly. 5c 6b 6a+ 6b 6a+ 7a (feeble attempt) 6b (pumped!)

F:    Bike 40 minutes, delivering my mountainbike, with its mystery click that I suspect/fear might be shot wheel bearings, into the hands of a professional

S: I don't expect tomorrow's climbing to be especially upper body intensive, so half an hour rings in the evening: pullups, dips, l-sits.

S: Climbing, Bad Heilbrunn. Old sandstone quarry mostly known for easy routes, but it also has a section of blank friction slab on which Ines (6b) is a local testpiece that has been on my to-do list for a while. Ha! Not today, given the total ass-kicking I received on the two 6a warmups either side of it. Hardly surprising, given however many years it is since I last tried to climb a friction slab.
 

 Derek Furze 09 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

A jumble of a week, but training bits went well.

Mon - a late Sunday decision to get out made by mate from Cambridge so met at a soaking wet Colehill.  Wandered up to North-East quarry and found less wet rock, so did Frustration and Crapulence (worse than it sounds).  Assumed Colehill would now be dry.  It wasn't, but managed to pick my way up one route.  Aborted to Coals Hill on the grounds that it might not be wet because of tree cover.  Charles battled up one here.  Then it rained hard.

Tues - on the road with work

Wed - day off for birthday.  Early run PB for year, so steady improvement.  Messed about with training station installation and caravan project.  Good progress.  Training session included six sets max hangs to new max on this three finger tips grip of 123%.  BW pull ups 5, 10, 9, 8, 7, ,6.  60 push ups.  90 reverse curls.  Six sets of stretching and shoulder rehab.  Out for a meal.

Thurs - work and childminding.

Fri - wedding anniversary.  Run first thing, but felt hard and muddy.  Yoga session.  Used bus pass to go out for a meal in Buxton, then a long evening of celebrating in the village complete with dancing.

Sat - yoga, then work on training station and caravan project.  Meant to train, but got too tired, so did the session first thing Sunday - same as Wednesday, but felt hard - possibly the impact of Octoberfest?

Climbing today and hopefully Friday.  Enjoying restorative yoga and generally working a bit more thoroughly on stretching.

Post edited at 07:48
 mattrm 09 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks for the stats. 

Weight - 12st 4lbs

STG - 25k a week by end of Oct

MTG - 10k 1 hour

LTG - 30 mile ultra (July 24) and 86 mile (Sept 24)

M - Chasing after kids on kids fell running club + 5k run

T - S - Rest

S - 5k

Weekly mileage - 10k

Chasing after kids ended up being 7k in the evening and we didn't get home till 21:00 with a rather tearful 6 year old.  It was chucking it down and we got a tidge lost in the dark.  I suspect he'll still want to go this week tho.  I basically had a cold all week and just didn't fancy going out for a run.  Dragged myself out yesterday, but I'm still very snotty.  I suspect next week will be a low miles week as well.  Going to leave it a few days and see how I'm doing before doing any more running.

 Randy 09 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

Not much too report this week again. Symptoms are gone, but i still felt a little bit weak.

Hence, another rest week. On the bright side, my foot is feeling much better. Managed to do a 30 minutes walk without any issues on Sunday, so i think i could do some easy climbing next week.

 Ally Smith 09 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks you Mr. Stats

It's return-to-school-virus-season; multiple runny noses from Senior Squigg and after effects of COVID causing upset nights for the rest of the family.  Hence, not much this week, apart from a soul-enhancing sandstone boulder at the weekend.

Week 39

M – Still a bit of DOMS from Saturday board session, especially in my lats, so didn’t train.

T – Not a lot.

W – Early morning board, after chatterbox daughter woke me at 0630. She went back to sleep, but I didn’t.  It took a while to get going (10x 6B+ to 7A+ to warm-up), but had a passable session, having another couple of goes on No Problem Solver, 7C+ BM, but wasn’t quite pulling at full-power, so swapped to “Killer Bee” 7B+ BM and did the crux in isolation for the first time, but couldn’t get the hold in the “just-so” position from the floor.

T – Also not a lot; another lurgy lurking in my sinuses.

F – Taking it easy. 

S – 6hrs gardening combined with wrangling 1st born. Felt like I’d earned my beer at 6pm!

S – Outdoor bouldering; whoop whoop! I dropped my 3 girls at the in-laws then smashed on to Manley Knoll. Delightful venue, with dappled sunlight casting long autumn shadows in the woods. 

I got straight on the main objective, Andy Popp’s Manley Virtues (V6) and ab’d it, cleaning as I went and trying a few moves on the high crux.  Descending to the floor, I pulled the rope out the way, squeaked my boots and set off.  Having not tried the bottom at all, nor practiced the top properly, there was just enough uncertainty and jeopardy to have a wholesome highball experience.  Committing to a smear on the the top-out was especially memorable! 3* esoterica 😊

I also repeated Kenopsia (V10) “7C+” going on 7B but failed on the lunge to the break of the highball finish of Complete Kenopsia (f7C) (a more accurate grade).  I briefly tried the Owls Choice (f7C+), and found it hideously hard, so there’s two things to go back for, along with some other 7’s. 

Post edited at 09:41
 Liam P 09 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

Cheers Ross. Another decent week and great weekend connies for October!

> be careful not too overcook it!

Definitely did this. Screaming elbows cut short my Sunday Session.

> return to Knuckle Duster with the decent weather later this week?

Yeah, pulled on on Saturday and still sliding out the top pocket. Think 20c might be a bit too warm and looks like it will need grit-like conditions to make it easier.

Mon

Garage Session

  • Lattice Wood Block Pinches. 5x 10s 16kg
  • OA Lockoffs 3x 8s (81%BW)
  • RTO Dips 5x 5
  • Rings Hanging Wipers 3x 6

Wed

Took Steve’s advice and joined the ‘Bristol Gents who Shunt’ club. Usual faff abbing off the wrong tree and in to the wrong cliff, but eventually got a rope down Apokalypto (f7B) and had a play for an hour. Lots of test falls and worked out the moves up to the mid-height undercut stance. 

Thu

A few low grade boulders then another hour on Apokalypto. Climbed up to the mid-height stance first go, then got completely shut down on the crimpy headwall. I’m 90% sure the crux is beyond my pay-grade, but captivating climbing, so I’m unsure whether to project something I could eventually send or just go full beans on a mega-proj and get stronger trying - I’m thinking maybe a bit of both and keep it as a periodic benchmark?

Sat

Naptime bouldering

  • Tweaked some foot beta and got up Mini Arete (Sit) (f6B) which had a very satisfying deadpoint slap. Tried Knuckleduster again but too warm and humid for the slopey pockets.

Sun

Naptime bouldering

  • Went back to try the traverse link on to Mini Arete (sit) The Undertaker (f6C) but elbows feeling the sudden increase in climbing so sacked it off.

Away with work this week so will likely get a wall session in, and another shunt on Friday I hope. Picked up a better chest harness (Torse) and also a Big-Ass Big Wall harness as I’m spending most of my time sat on the rope with a numb arse.

Post edited at 10:07
In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross,

It's a shame BM doesn't lend itself to a lamp session as that's when I'm usually there! We didn't back to the car til 5pm after Tryfan last weekend so no time for anything even though it has dried up by that point. This week.

Mon. 6 sets of repeaters, 3x 10 press ups.

Tues. 7km run. My legs were still a bit tired from the wkend so I headed out with a work colleague in his 60s expecting a steady one not realising he'd been running for the last 45years and we shot round at 4.58/km. Impressive grey power!

Wed. Auto belay 4x 10mins on 10mins off. Upped it to 6b+ for the first 3 sets then 6c up and 6a+ down for the last set. Feeling good.

Thurs and Fri. rest, feeling a bit ropey but possibly just run down as busy at work 

Sat. Short smash and grab session to chee dale as I had to be back in Sheffield soon after midday. 4th tie in redpoint of To Boltly Go (7c). Came expecting a soft touch but apparently it's lost a hold at the start and we found it pretty hard. My partner didn't get it in one and neither did the young strong hotshot that turned up after all who's very good. Rumours of a + needed now but I'm terrible at grading so I've not waded in with an opinion! I could see it being very hard if you were any shorter than me, I had to cut loose to reach several holds. Family party in the afternoon and evening involving a long wine tasting competition.

Sun. 5km 'simulated altitude' run.

OP Ross Barker 09 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

Good morning all, a good week from me more or less. Been diligent with the rehab, and although the ring A2 still feels pretty crap indoors, on real rock it seems to not be such an issue? Maybe it's easier to rely on friction and body position more than on plastic? Maybe the ~30m approach gets blood flowing suitably well to make it feel better? Maybe I move better on rock? I suspect the former, though of course it depends on the problem.

I've slightly tweaked my right shoulder as well, but I think that was due to some gym dynos and lunging for distant holds rather than anything chronic, so I'll keep up the band work warmups and keep an eye on it.

Last Week:

M - Ice baths before bed.

T - Weigh-in at 77.4kg. Ice baths before bed.

W - Indoor bouldering. Mostly a bunch of things up to flash level, so nothing desperate. A2 felt pretty good. Happy with it. Ice baths before bed.

T - Rest.

F - Short indoor boulder session. A2 felt kinda crap for the most part. Didn't push it too hard. Ice baths before bed.

S - Rest/gardening. Ice baths before bed.

S - Gallt yr Ogof Boulders. Cracking day out. Tried The Price is Wrong Bob (f7B) and had some very convincing efforts culminating in catching the first move. Unfortunately skin started to hold me back as it's a small sharp crimp, but I'd like to go back for it I think. Did a couple other bits here and there, but very pleased that the ring A2 behaved despite feeling rubbish on Friday. The left shoulder was ace, so ticking the rehab off the list, as well as the middle A2. However my right shoulder is now feeling very minorly impinged will keep an eye on it. Ice baths before bed.

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Climbing.

W - Rest.

T - Climbing.

F - Rest.

S, S - More climbing!

Goals:

Rehab A2.

Improve ability on tiny edges.

Oberth Effect Proj.

 the sheep 09 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

> the sheep: Solid week, usual swims and good effort on the half marathon. Hope you're wife's IT band issues can get sorted. What's the next goal/event/adventure on the plan?

Thanks Ross, not got anything planned now until next year when my eldest daughter wants to run a half with my wife and I so we will look to find one in spring time. I also have a personal project to run a 50k ultra next year as i will be turning 50 in January. This will be a personal solo project. Anyway had a good week that mixed things up a little.

Monday, 1km swim

Tuesday, 1km swim

Wednesday, took my eldest kids to Manchester to see a 5SOS gig. Used my free evening to actually do some climbing and spent a fab evening at the Rock Over wall doing plenty of low grade bouldering   

Thursday, 1km swim and a stretch class

Friday, 20k cycle into work in the morning and 1km swim at lunchtime

Saturday, supposed rest day but in reality spent a lot of time as kids taxi service. However had an excellent evening celebrating a mates 50th and enjoyed quite a few shandies!!

Sunday, 7k very sunny trail run 

 Steve Claw 09 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

> With the elbow joint, any idea what the issue is, it doesn't sound like a tendonitis sort of thing from your brief description?

I have various elbow issues depending on how hard I pull.  The current one, (more in the right), appears to be an elbow inflammation of the joint.  If I pull hard, I can still feel the golfers elbow tendon.  Possibly (hopefully) the only issue I am yet to experience is Tennis Elbow. 

I am getting my head into the idea of a committed rehab plan.  Unfortunately I can be somewhat lazy when it comes to this sort of thing, and sometimes wait until things are really bad before I square up and deal with it.

Quiet week for me, been working away.

F - First indoor session since the spring.  All felt really hard and I'm just not used to that type if holds.  Still managed to on-sight the 2 hardest auto-belays, but they were only 7a+ and 7a.  But the bouldering all felt desperate, found V5 hard.  Still aching 2 day later. 

 Ian Parnell 09 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross for the stats. Good training week, injury improvement week for yourself last week too, well done.

STG (next month) – maintain a grip on daily life, maintain and enjoy climbing and training when possible. 1. Autumn run and climb project.

MTG (next 2 months)– 1. String Theory (f7A)? 2. Success on some Grit E1/2 nemeses

LTG (next 6 months) – 1. Give me strength – fingers, steep stuff and slopers. 2. Get properly to grips with safe Grit E3s. 3. Rheinstor Lower Traverse (f7A)??.

Mon – Depot bouldering, warm up green, white, blacks x 5. Tried 12 reds that couldn’t manage last time got up 5 of them, close on another 2. Felt a bit stronger than last week’s session. 3 x 10 press ups.

Tues –  Nothing

Wed – 3.5 mile run round woods. Finger block hangs half crimp 10 secs 2 mins rest 2.5kg, 5, 7.5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 32.5 (L9 R 10), 3 sets of 33.75 (L 5 secs, R 5).

Thurs – Surprising level of DOMS for such a short run the day before. Depot bouldering. Warm up whites, blues, blacks x 5. Tried 15 reds managed 1 I’d not done before, got to last move of another 2 and made progress on another 3. Got to last move of a purple. Felt tired.

Fri – Nothing

Saturday – Nothing

Sunday – Fun morning at Hen Cloud, a really, superb crag, climbing K2 (S 4b), Modern (VS 4b), Central Climb (VS 4c)] – the latter I didn’t bother placing any gear as time was ticking.

Reflection - Very enjoyable finish to a ho-hum week. Feel like I’m going through the motions a bit with training waiting to find my mojo again. Having said that I do have a date for the autumn climb/run challenge, just doing extended (no) rain dance to try and give us a chance.

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Is the climb/run challenge some sort of peak classic rock round?  I'm noticing a lot of peak classic rock getting done in prep for something here...

 Ian Parnell 09 Oct 2023
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Shhh!

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Has it been done on foot before? I've only seen it by bike?

 inglesp 09 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

Not much from me again, as I've now got covid.  Having spent the last three-and-a-half years involved in covid research, it's exciting to finally experience it first hand.  (Snap verdict: I preferred malaria.)

But in the couple of days between illnesses, I did manage to get up my 7a project at the Warehouse.

 SteveJC94 09 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross. All things it fells fairly good, though I definitely noticed a drop in contact strength and an inability to crimp well - good job grit season is fast approaching! 

M - Zone 2 base run. 9km / 46 mins (5:05/km)

T - Finger rehab. 5 x 20s density hangs with 15kg load on a 20mm pick-up edge. Boulder pyramid (V2, V3, V3, V5, V5, V6, V5, V5, V3, V3 V2).

W - Strength & conditioning - press-ups 10 x 3, pull-ups 10 x 3, chest-press 8 x 4, tricep dips 10 x 3. 

T/F/S/S - floored by COVID (it's rife in Manchester at the moment!) so lots of finger rehab and flexibility work at home with the aim of getting back to strength work by the middle of next week and gentle cardio by the end of the week. 

 AJM 10 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

> AJM: Sorry to hear about the waning motivation, especially with the summer weather being a bit of a flop compared to previous years. Can't win them all! A reset sounds in good order, let the psyche naturally return and you'll be grand.

Thanks Ross. It's a thing that often happens at the end of the summer season - worse this year and last as the worry of injuries makes me less keen to jump into bouldering. Plus the tension of always wanting to do roped climbing, which is also the most difficult thing to organize!

Another quiet week. I was feeling wiped after work so never really did much. I also (Sunday night) had some level of confirmation that my caffeine dependency has lessened - I've roughly halved my coffee consumption in the last month or so, but on Sunday after a bad night's sleep I was back on 3 cups and then some cola for the drive home. Terrible nights sleep, but in a strange way good in that it shows it's not been in vain.

On Saturday I had hoped to get out climbing - trad at Swanage - but I didn't get any takers for partners and it looked like those who hadn't found a partner by late week were less aligned with what I'd have wanted to do. Lulworth was looking humid. So in the end I decided to go for a big walk, which is another thing I can't do with the kids so is another worthwhile use of the child free day. I didn't check the ranges, so I didn't find out until I got there that the lulworth ranges were closed, which scuppered my original plans. But I had a good day, 17 miles by the end, nice weather, good to be out in the fresh air doing stuff. My original plan was probably woefully ambitious for a walk straight off the couch, so the ranges closed may have been for the best!

https://strava.app.link/PGD9F0w9LDb

 AlanLittle 10 Oct 2023
In reply to AlanLittle:

My new copy of Power of Climbing arrived today. Ordered from a bookseller in Stockport, on the offchance that I might be fated to get my old copy back, but no such luck.

 Derek Furze 10 Oct 2023
In reply to AlanLittle:

I got mine on Friday and delved into it.  Was surprised to find that Tom was ten years older than me, which didn't seem obvious at the time.  Haven't checked to see if any previous owner markings are within, so will do.  

Also surprised to find I have a score of four (climbed with), one (shared a drink with and amazed to not score a double here) and one (almost killed when my rope pulled a block off on a coveted new route).  Fair to say that he almost killed himself subsequently using a similar technique while making up for the lost ground.  I'm obviously not counting any chatted to at the crag / Beacon type encounters, however illustrious they may be.

 AlanLittle 10 Oct 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

You're scoring higher than me. Actually climbed with: two. Picked up hitching from the Pass to Tremadog: two. Used to see more regularly at the wall than just the odd casual nod: one.

But they include Dawes and Redhead, so if we're counting quality rather than quantity ...

Post edited at 20:10
 Derek Furze 10 Oct 2023
In reply to AlanLittle:

I'm hoping no-one tops 'nearly killed'...

 Tom Green 11 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

Hi Clubbers. Thanks for the write-up, Ross. Good insights.

Balanced out last week's three days climbing with zero this week! A predictably low key week due to some planned life chaos.

Week 40:

M: Rest.

T: Strength & Prehab.

W: Trail Run. 13.2km, 469m vert, 6:18/km.

T: Nothing.

F: Nothing.

S: Strength sesh.

S: Nothing.

Week 41:

M: Strength sesh.

T: Rest.

W: Strength, Prehab, Core.

T: Run.

F: Strength, Prehab, Core.

S: Run.

S: Climbing.

STG (end Dec):

Maintain finger strength -average 2 sessions/week.

Increase core focus -average 2 sessions/week.

3 off big mountain day list.

Hidden Dragon or White Wall (Masson, not Millstone!)

100m D6/7 in a session.

Year Goals:

110 days climbing for the year (currently 89).

1000 km running (currently 956km) with 40km vertical (currently 30.5km) for the year.

MTG (end March):

2+ off Scottish VII list.

1+ of Alpine Winter list.

Maintain finger strength -average 2 sessions/week.

Get ski practice in -five sessions Nov-Feb.

 biscuit 11 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

Cheers Ross. Yes I'm aiming for consistency in the run up to Leonidio. I think I was doing too much.

M - Gym

Broken halves  x6 on crimpy wood 7a circuit, it's harder than that. Felt about right but had to stop before the required 10 due to time.

T - Planned Kilter board scrapped due to feeling tired. Changed to a slab session. Good fun

1on/1off on 6c x 10. Too easy need to up this next time.

W - Gym

Didn't do hard boulders or 30 mins on as planned. Too tired.

T - Bailed on a session after warming up. V4's were feeling like the living end and no psyche.

F - Kendal route pyramid on big wall. Peaked with 7b+ attempt. Fell off 2/3rds up. This session needs tweaking. I need to stack the front end a bit more as I wasn't feeling any built up fatigue. By the time my turn came again I was recovered. 

S - 30min run and shoulder rehab

S - Trowbarrow - wet in places. Did some there and back traversing between the wet bits from the start through the crux and back again.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Anyone else clocked the weather forecast?  May I declare grit season open from Sunday?

 Tom Green 11 Oct 2023
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Never mind grit season... brace yourself for the first logs of Savage Slit (Winter) (V 6) for the year!

In reply to Tom Green:

I've got my pitchfork and flaming torch at the ready.  Bring on the photos!

 mattrm 11 Oct 2023
In reply to Tom Green:

And for the first time someone asks if Kinder Downfall is in yet?  Isn't that traditional around here

 Derek Furze 12 Oct 2023
In reply to Ross Barker:

Been busy, but thought people might like to see development in progress...

Definitely need a footboard as it is hard without feet.  Mind you, it is supposed to be! 😂


 Tyler 12 Oct 2023
In reply to Derek Furze:

Looks a tidy job, what happens to it when not in use?

In reply to Derek Furze:

Looks good.  You might find its hard not to bash the door and wall with your legs if foot off campusing.  A small price to pay for having a board in your house mind!

EDIT: I bet Mrs. Furze is thrilled!

Post edited at 15:30
 Derek Furze 12 Oct 2023
In reply to Tyler:

Yes, Mrs Furze has asked the very same 😂

It fits on top of the wardrobe.  My task tomorrow is to set up a good way of hoisting it up and down easily!

 Derek Furze 12 Oct 2023
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Excellent - a very good reason to avoid foot off campusing then!

I'd originally planned a power station type arrangement, but the design didn't meet with planning approval.  Something about 'monstrosity' I believe...😂


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