UKC

Evening all, been a busy day for me so will get the stats up tomorrow morning. Hope everyone's been able to enjoy the good weather!

In reply to Ross Barker:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_864-7646...

Tyler: Sorry to hear about the elbow, must be quite annoying to have it go bad again. Good to see you getting out in the good weather, even if perhaps not so confidently. Has the elbow shown any signs of potential improvement this week or are you still staying restful?

AlanLittle: Great trip write-up, that certainly sounds memorable! Good week as well, getting back on the ropes and some friction slabbing. Have you got any 6c+/7a routes in mind for your STG? I'm not sure what the season is like in Germany but it's probably time to start putting some time it.

Derek Furze: Training bits did indeed go well, nice one. Training area is taking shape now as well which is great. Shame the routes were wet on Monday, but I suspect you've been able to get out this week!

mattrm: Sorry to hear you're feeling under the weather, seems to be the time of year for catching things, doesn't it? Good to see you're being sensible and resting lots during this period.

Randy: Great news about the foot! You must be chuffed. I'm sure we'll see you climbing again soon!

Ally Smith: Great weekend! I really must venture out to Manley Knoll some time, seems to be a real hot spot the past couple years. A soul enhancing experience certainly sold it to me! Hope the lurgies stay away from now on and you can make some real dents in your MB project.

Liam P: Great week. If you're enjoying working something really hard, then keep trying it, even if you're not sure it'll get done. Unless it's particularly fragile or something, of course. It seems my overcooking warning may have come late, but hopefully it's just a niggle rather than blowing up to something big.

Somerset swede basher: Great to see you again yesterday. Good week as well, despite the ropiness. Impressive smash and grab sesh at Chee Dale! I think BM can be lamped reasonably okay, I've seen it done before. The top slab might be a little terrifying though!

the sheep: Climbing! Great to see it. Solid swimming as usual. 50k sounds like an awfully long way, can't you just blag a lift? I'm sure you'll smash it!

Steve Claw: I can sympathise with being lazy and letting things get bad before making an effort, so I'm telling you now to get off yer butt and rehab! Sounds like it might be a little more esoteric than usual elbow injuries though, so hopefully you'll find something that works well. 

Ian P: Thanks! I'm very happy with my finger progress too, it's coming along nicely the past couple weeks. Looks like you've had a pretty good week as well with climbing and a bit of training. Hen Cloud really is a fantastic crag, almost makes me wish I was more of a trad climber! Hope you've been able to make use of these good conditions.

inglesp: Amazing work on getting up the project, and avoiding Covid for so long sound like it's hit you pretty bad (or Malaria is not as bad as I thought), so take it easy, don't rush back into things too quickly and cook yourself. I remember being utterly gassed on the approach to roadside Ramshaw post-covid!

SteveJC94: Good training to start with, which is something at least. Do take it easy and return gently as not to overdo it!

AJM: Good work on the caffeine kicking. Wicked walk on Saturday, really pumping out the miles. I hope work has been a little quieter this week and you've had the energy to get out a bit!

Tom Green: A very unusual week indeed, but certainly enough for maintenance, and probably good to recover a bit. You've got a lot of vertical to make up for with your EOY goals, time to start sprinting up ski slopes?

biscuit: Full week! It does sound like a lot, but as you keep with it you'll tweak it until it's just right, I'm sure. I hope the weather this weekend hasn't tempted you away from the training regime!

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross, yes, great to catch up yesterday.

Mon. rest

Tues. lamp session at Stanage.  16degrees in the car park at 7pm and very not grit like conditions.  Managed The Pendulum (f7A) 3rd go, managed to onsight Steep Traverse (f6C) then it only took a few goes to do Airlie's Extension (f7A).  Managed to twist my knee a bit.

Wed. knee sore so sacked off running and caught up on some work instead.

Thurs. 6 sets of repeaters, 3 x 10 press ups.

fri. 3x 10 mins on 10mins off auto belay session.  6b+ up and down.

Sat. Open day atthe yoga school my wide goes to, there all day, 5 classes.

Sun. Met Ross and his Shropshire clan at Burbage.  Plenty of pads made a nice ascent of Life in a Radioactive Dustbin (f6C), disapointed not to get Small is Beautiful 7A in a session but by the time I'd worked out how to do the start I was too goosed to manage the easier top.  Its also totally mangled my first two fingers on my right hand.  One for another day.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross. I do indeed have routes in mind - a couple of local nemeses I've been contending with for years. I had neither the weather nor the health to get out and try them this weekend just gone, but hope to get out with my son the coming weekend, assuming I'm over whatever lurgy has me in its grip.

STG: Autumn '23 tick my first 7a in two years, and/or something from my (long) local 6c+ projects list
MTG: Summer '24 uk trad trip with my son and/or Rough Bounds Scottish backpacking trip
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823
LTG: Winter 24 or 25 - do an actual off piste ski tour.

Feeling very sub-par with some kind of respiratory infection all week, although a covid self test came up negative. 

M-W: nada
T:    Feeling somewhat better? Wall, Thalkirchen. Kilterboard
F:    Still not feeling great, but getting stir crazy so went out for a gentle hour's tootle in the woods on the mountainbike. Probably a mistake.
S-S: rainy weekend spent at home trying - failing - to get better.

Off to the doc now. As the son of an NHS nurse I was brought up not to waste the doctor's valuable time with colds & sniffles. A sentiment I still generally agree with, but I'm getting pissed off with this.
 

In reply to Ross Barker:

Good morning. A good week from me. Not feeling the strongest but the is the least injured I've felt for a long time, which is something. I think it's probably time to incorporate some steady max-hang style things like I did in August, and see how that progresses the A2. If my left hand was anywhere near as strong as my right I like to think I'd be doing what the kids call "crushing". The right shoulder niggle seems to have cleared up pretty sharpish.

Last Week:

Avg weight 77.4kg

M - Ice baths before bed.

T - Evening indoor climbing. Generally a decent bit of mileage friendly on the finger, plus some sensible Moonboarding. Felt less tweaky than usual but still erred with caution. Ice baths before bed.

W - Ice baths before bed.

T - Evening indoor climbing. More of the same but was actually okay statically crimping some pretty small holds, which is a confidence boost. Ice baths before bed.

F - Ice baths before bed.

S - Rest.

S - Burbage North. Started the day with Life in a Radioactive Dustbin (f6C) which certainly got the heart going a little bit. Next had a few goes on Small is Beautiful (f7A) but had some confidence issues on the small left hand crux crimp, so decided to leave it. Repeated Safe Bet (f6C), so good. Sort of did Jason's Roof (f7A) but topped out left instead of direct, and hadn't the energy or skin to do it again properly. Ice baths before bed.

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Climbing.

W - Rest.

T - Climbing.

F - Rest.

S, S - More climbing!

Goals:

Rehab A2.

Improve ability on tiny edges.

Oberth Effect Proj.

In reply to Ross Barker:

S'up y'all. Thanks for statting, Ross.

Not a particularly exciting week, but kept the ball rolling, at least.

Week 41:

M: Strength sesh.

T: Rest.

W: Strength and prehab.

T: Hill Run. 16.6km, 596m vert, 7:50/km. Brilliantly heinous terrain. Long sections of knee deep heather. Long sections of shin deep bog. Short sections of sketchy cliff traverse. Generally an excellent adventure!

F: Rest.

S: Strength, prehab, core.

S: Trail run. 19.9km, 59m vert, 6:04/km. Carrying a 5kg rucksack.

Week 42:

M: Strength, Prehab, Core.

T: Climbing.

W: Climbing.

T: Rest.

F: Run/climb.

S: Rest.

S: Strength, Prehab, Core.

STG (end Dec):

Maintain finger strength -average 2 sessions/week (Currently 2)

Increase core focus -average 2 sessions/week (Currently 1)

3 off big mountain day list.

Yates' Layaway.

Hidden Dragon or White Wall (Masson, not Millstone!)

100m D6/7 in a session.

Year Goals:

110 days climbing for the year (currently 89).

1000 km running (currently 956km) with 40km vertical (currently 30.5km) for the year.

MTG (end March):

2+ off Scottish VII list.

1+ of Alpine Winter list.

Maintain finger strength -average 2 sessions/week.

Get ski practice in -5+ sessions Nov-Feb.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Morning statistician.

I only made use of the weather to do garden jobs this week A good round of board sessions though.

Week 40

M – Hip stretches only. Lurg still lingering.

T – Late night board session. 11x 6B+ to 7A warm-ups. Then some try hard on 7C+’s:

• “Salamati” – sacked it off quick as wrist felt weak in the undercut.
• “No Problem Solver” – confused how I did so well on it before. Couldn’t repeat the top move, so didn’t put any effort into the bottom.
• “And he’ll create music” – held the crux and dropped the easier top. Then got a split on a subsequent go ☹
• “Boo” (benchmark) – managed the extreme cross-under for the first time.

W –  Hip stretches only.

T – Late night board session #2. Taped up the split and did 10x 6B+ to 7A+ warm-ups. Then some try hard on:

• “Visualizza Stoc…”, 7B. Tick, after too many goes dropping the big last move, including a comedy double dry fire arse rocket.
• “No Problem Solver” 7C+/8A. Repeated the top move and had a 3 of goes form the bottom, with best go just 6” short of the jug.  Right shoulder a bit grumpy about the wide gaston crux though.
• “Boo”. Repeated the extreme cross-under, and managed the unwind, but not the pull through.

F – Not a lot. Evening stretches only.

S – Morning pruning between showers (“gripper training” with secateurs!), and wet afternoon bouldering mat den making with senior squigg.

S – More gardening club, then 1hr rushed session in the afternoon. Taped up the split again and did 10x 6B+ to “7C” BM warm-ups (repeating Salathe is good for the psyche, even if the grade feels super soft when wired).  I did the finishing move on No Problem Solver 1st go, so got trying from the start. 7 goes later, my 3x best efforts were touching, but not holding the finishing jug.  I quickly tried the moves on some other 7C/+’s, and have some ideas for what’s next.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks for the stats Ross and good to hear you're the least injured in recent memory - go forth and crimp young man! Unfortunately I was working Saturday but made the most of a free sunny Sunday morning, sadly it doesn't look like the good weather will last though.

STG (this month) – maintain a grip on daily life, maintain and enjoy climbing and training when possible. 1. Autumn run and climb project.

MTG (next 2 months)– 1. String Theory (f7A)? 2. Success on some Grit E1/2 nemeses

LTG (next 6 months) – 1. Give me strength – fingers, steep stuff and slopers. 2. Get properly to grips with safe Grit E3s. 3. Rheinstor Lower Traverse (f7A)??.

Mon – Return to String Theory. Solo night session. Carrying 4 mats was a tough warm up! Conditions not great, back wall wet and several moist edges on the crack. Didn’t manage any links longer than 8-10 feet but tried to dial in the central section. Best success was that I came away with almost no wounds – a first on this beast.

Tues –  2 x 2 mile runs checking out a few sections of the run & climb project.

Wed – The Depot. Felt tired, so, after usual warm up of 15 easier problems, did the black circuit (31 problems V2-V4) and another 6 pinks (V2 – V5).

Thurs – Nothing

Fri – 4 mile run around woods. 30 mins stretching

Saturday – Nothing

Sunday – 2 hour run/walk. About 9 miles with lots of getting lost and going in circles but a valuable recee for the run climb project. I definitely know where not to go and I think I’ve got a full route sorted now.

Reflection - Mixed feelings with getting back on String Theory. I didn’t feel that good on it but conditions were poor. I guess the good thing is that I’ve found a challenge that’s really going to push me. The previous session when Swede and his mate made it look hard but very doable probably lulled me into a false sense that I might be able to climb it relatively quickly too. But I need to remember they are climbing a good number sport grade more than I am… My plan is to seek out a few shorter crack boulders before I head back. Psych is building for the run and climb project, unfortunately the forecast, for my booked day off work on Friday to try it, is awful, so there’s a high chance it won’t happen this year. But forecasts can change…

In reply to Ross Barker:

Easy report for me!

Mon - mileage at Harpur Hill as mate trying to rehab a foot problem.  A bit damp, but ten routes.

Rest of week consumed with work and Julia's mother's funeral.  A long and emotional day.  Hard getting to work the following day.

Friday and Saturday - garden projecting and redeveloped the campus set up.  Happy with foot on work, but on my occasional attempts at foot off have only managed one move!  I suspect this is partly technique, but it is clearly an admirable winter goal.

Now in Wales for four days climbing if the weather holds together.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Rested until yesterday when I got on a couple of very easy routes. Definitely felt it in my elbow so not sure what to do this week as I’m climbing in Chulilla next week. Probably have a couple of easy sessions before then but the holiday could be a bit of a wash out.

In other news my weight is probably still dropping ever so slightly. On one weigh in this week I was below 11st (by less than a pound!)

In reply to Ross Barker:

Other than sheparding the child around on the kids fell running training, nothing.  Still got this cold going on.  Was going to do a quick 5k or two, but just didn't really feel it.  Suspect this week will be similar as I'm now in week 3 of cold and have a horrible headache today.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Yeah, it is funny how much joy the little things, like being able to walk for 30 minutes without any pain can bring

Recap last week:

Mon-Wed: Rest as i was on a business trip

Thur: Pullups: 4x10 with 3 minutes rest, Repeaters 3x6x7,3 at 90% BW on 20mm egde, felt a little bit tired which was expected as i was quite sleep derived after arriving back from my trip at 2am in the previous night 

Fri: Rest

Sat: First outdoor climbing session since May . Of course after it had been completely dry the last 2 months we had the first real rainy dry, which limited out crag options to really steep stuff and we went to Friedrichsruh (Altmühltal). Hence, instead of easing back into i started my day with a steep 6c+ (New Edition), where i surprised myself and sent it first Go. I had already send the route a couple of years ago, so no real onsight, but i also did not remember too much. Afterwards, i probably got a little bit too confident after the good start, tried a steep twice 7b+ (Pumping Iron) and got completely shut down on it . Anyway still a good day and despite pouring rain and thunderstorms we stayed completely dry.

Sun: Well earned rest

Finally a good week with some climbing. Most importantly both finger and my feet are fine. Goal  for next week is to do some indoor climbing during the week and another outdoor session on the weekend.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross! It was a good stomp.

Yeah cutting back on the coffee has been kind of odd. I quite like coffee, as well as having the obviously more clinical dependency on caffeine. Decaf seems better now than I remember it being. But yeah, not quite sure what the end game is in terms of what level I try to settle at.

I didn't get out this week, but motivation to do stuff has started to pick up. Some of my rehab can be done on a fingerboard instead of a bar so I started doing that - long-ish hangs on the 15mm edges - on some of the rehab sessions. Yesterday I started to build further on that by starting to do some slightly more intense hangs too (bodyweight on the 10mm, so a while to go, but good to get the fingers used to pulling on smaller things again). Going to build on it this coming week and maybe try to go to the wall as well.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thank you Ross,

I will get thinking about what rehab to start doing.

A few bits achieved this week.

M - Had a quick go on my friends new route project, 7c? managed it all apart from the crux move at the start that I need a bit of time to work out the beta.

T - Geared and climbed a new crimpy 7b I shunted a while back, all seemed fairly straightforward on the RP, but I did have all the moves perfectly dialled.

On reflection, I think my love of face crimp climbing (apart from the obvious that it favours the tall), is that it often requires a level of technique and precision that are not often found in the steep burley routes.

W - F - Nothing

Sat - Cornish Granite   Bosigran, easy day on my favourite Little Brown Jug (VS 5a) and then the "out there" The Ghost (E3 5b)

Sun - Carn Bara - Sunny Corner Lane (E3 5c) and a TR on A Touch of Glass (E4 6b) (only as the ab rope was there).  I did want to do something hard that day but felt low on energy (I blame the snorer in the hut we stayed at)

In reply to Ross Barker:

Hi Ross,

Back from Elba – which was very nice. Highlights were beautiful white granite slabs easing into the sea and spectacular sunsets over Corsica – which seemed to magically materialize out of the smudged horizon every late afternoon.

First week back went as follows:

Mon: long stretching with yoga hip-opener routine; reacquaintance with the hang board
Tue: 30 min. jog followed by upper body exercises.
Wed: wall, Thalkirchen, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6c/6c+ (twice), 6b+, 6a. Pleasantly surprised at how the session went. The first for a while and even before the holiday break wall sessions were sporadic. Almost got the 6c first go – ran out of puff at the last bolt. Moved well, endurance lacking a bit.
Thu: stretching and leg exercises – vented a bit of work frustration and did the leg routine twice – paid for it the next day, quite sore.
Fri: stretching and a short hang board session.
Sat: Oberes Pleitlwandl, ‘home’ crag visit. 5 nice and easy routes before the rain finally arrived. Moved quite well and felt pretty relaxed. Enjoyable day. Hope to get back there again this Saturday.
Sun: had to work, then got caught up watching the rugby. Bit of stretching and foam roller…

Wishing everyone feeling unwell and the injured speedy and thorough recoveries.

Paul

In reply to Ross Barker:

Cheers Ross, busy with work last week but managed to squeeze a rare wall session in and a short naptime bouldering hit during some great gritstone connies on Sunday!

Sage advice and lucky to have something that solid, hard, and shuntable close to my house really. Only thing is the weather. It looks like it might get pretty dank, and it seems like winter has just happened overnight here. Maybe a winter in the garage doing block lifts will help for the spring!?

Wed

Social wall session messing around on the comp wall. Catching up with mates etc.

Fri

Afternoon off work but it was honking down. Took a spade in to the local boulder and cleared most of the earth from the top. Makes the top-out nicer and should help with seepage, and if you squint (really really hard) you could almost be at Burbage!

Sun

SSB’s prediction of gritstone connies came true so thought today might be the day for Knuckle Duster (f6C). Reached the top slopey pockets first try, and felt like I could hang them all day, but couldn’t leave them to slap for the break. I’ve seen some beta online that skips one of the pockets and bumps straight for the break so may try that next - feels like a cheat though!

Weather not looking great this week so probably another quiet one.

In reply to Small Step:

Steve and Paul stop it with your golden and white granite sea cliff teasing! Getting seriously jealous. Both sound like great trips.

In reply to Liam P:

I think I tried this many years ago; I didn't manage it but go and go again rings bells as the thing which got me closest

In reply to AJM:

Saw your name on a few of the other logs. Will give it a go!

In reply to Ross Barker:

Cheers Ross. At the moment all is feeling good on the training front. A lot of niggles have recovered and I'm enjoying the structure.

M - Gym - trying out new stuff not a very heavy session

30 mins continuous climbing 6a, 6b, 6a, 6c, 6a etc

T - Board 10 on Kilter board. Repeated the last session from 3 weeks ago when I was unwittingly overtraining. It felt about 5/10 instead of 9/10.

It turns out recovery is important. It also turns out that hindsight is important and when you have gradually built up fatigue, by repeating the same plan week after week over a wet Summer, it's difficult to see the hole you have dug as you are in it. 

W - Hard boulders

T - Gym 

1 on/ 1 off - on 7a+ just completed x 10

F- Indoor boulder - easy session

S - Kentmere horseshoe - sunny, wet, snowy, wet, sunny. 

S- Went to Giggleswick South Easy day. Hardest was Titter Ye Not (6c). I did try Silent Laughter (7b) but unbelievably the bottom was roasting hot and I couldn't hold the crimps. I'm pretty certain I could on a cooler day. However I dogged my way up and the crux totally baffled me. But again this may have been due to the small holds (cruxy vert lime route). I just couldn't make them work.

This has been a big jump up in load, but it feels manageable. Recovery is good and the plan is to keep this going for the next two weeks before a deload.

In reply to AlanLittle:

I hope you perk up quickly Alan. NEVER worry about wasting a doctor's time. If you have a concern act on it.

In reply to Derek Furze:

I hope you're all OK Derek. Not much that can be said other than to wish you both well. 

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross. Suffered most of the week with COVID so a cardio-free week with some home workouts for a change.

M/T - Rest

W - Pull-ups 5x5, Shoulder shrugs 5x5, Press-ups 10x3, Bicycle crunches 20x3

T - Rest

F - Press-ups 10x3, Pull-ups 5x5, 30s plank x4, sit-ups 20x3

S - Rest

S - Recovered enough to venture outdoors and make the most of the sunny weather. Took a trip to Curbar and managed to get Trackside (f7A) done without too much fuss - great to be back on rock at last! 

In reply to biscuit:

Yes fine thanks Biscuit.  One of life's moments, but we're good.  I like your very thoughtful comments on training loads 🙂

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Hi Ian,
hope you and your run & climb plans are going well.
The trip was exactly what was needed after a couple of hectic if not torrid years - just hanging out and plunging into the water occassionally, easy hikes, reading (incl. The Zen of Climbing), a chilled beer now and then...all that was missing was a bit of climbing - there was a crag about 45 minutes hike above the village...we'll go back one day and sample the white granite vertically. It's aroused my interest in Corsica, just across the water...but - no more, otherwise I'll be getting jealous of myself (if that's possible ).

P.S. had my first dermatologist appointment - soolantra is the name of the cream...every day for the next four months...how are you doing?

In reply to Small Step: Hi Paul, sorry for the late reply. My rosacea is ongoing although at the moment it’s eased a little following a flare up a couple if weeks ago. I supposedly am on a waiting list for The Dermatologist and need to start chasing them. I looked up the Soolantra £42 a tube but has to be prescribed. Interestingly Ivermectin the key ingredient, is an anti parasitic and was touted as a covid wonder drug although evidence was controversially lacking. If I get an appointment I will see if the NHS can prescribe.