Almost all future ascensionists have used the crimp to get into the break instead, likely why the grade has come down to 8A+ over time. Joe Wilson repeated the original sequence under the impression it was a new line, upgrading the original to 8B+ and, as far as I can tell, he incorrectly (although likely unintentionally) claimed the FA.
I'd be really interested to hear from any Northumberland Locals with insight into the boulder and knowledge as why when repeat ascensionists started using the crimp they didn't distinguish it as a new boulder?
I'm not super familiar with the problem but your description is the same as my understanding. I assume people started using the crimp because it seemed the easier sequence, and the problem wasn't written up as an eliminate originally.
Fri Night Vid Ethan Pringle on one of Portugal's Hardest Sport Climb
In this week's Friday Night Video, we follow Ethan Pringle to the 'not-yet-popular' but world-class sport crag of Meio Mango in Portugal. In the film, Ethan attempts one of the country's hardest lines, Filipinos, which was first...